Yet another VAMO V3 thread (this one with a review)

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WarHawk-AVG

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Yay...got my Vamo V3's in (I ordered 2, one for me and my wife)

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First thing I did was inspect the 510 heads to ensure I didn't get the "dreaded thread o' doom" where the threads seemed boogered up or non-existent...neither of them were defective...

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What came in the box (2 short battery tubes)

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Here is the rig with two TrustFire 18350's with protection circuit and both short battery extensions on the unit, come to find out you cannot use 2x batteries on the unit at the same time, it's either 1 big 18650, or one small 18350...let me explain

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As you can see here this is a single 18350 and 1 battery extension, battery sits flush and the end cap screws on nicely

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This is the unit with 2x battery extensions and 2x 18350 batteries...nope wont fit...one single 18650 would, not really a problem, with the smaller battery it works but it would just have shorter battery life

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short single battery, it's actually kinda small this way

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Here is a size comparison, the top is a USB bypass, it is in a standard eGo 650mAh, this one just happens to have a USB cable instead of a battery in the case [oal 5 3/4" w/o clearomize 3 3/8"]

Next one down is my Totally Wicked Tornado RCS, it has a 16650 battery (not a 18650 battery) in it, it's my first rig and has been running like a champ (bottom feed tank and coil is 2.4Ω and vapes very good, even on the 5vdc bypass) [oal 6 7/8" w/o tank 4 7/16"]

The VAMO V3 with one battery tube w/o tank 4 1/4", with 2x battery tubes w/o tank 5 1/2"

ok...one thing I noticed and not sure if its due to the protection circuit in the batteries or a flaw in the V3's...initially when I put in the battery (single 18350 and one battery tube) after I fully charged them and turned the wattage up to 7 on the rig, hit the fire button and the display flashed and rig shut down...happened on both batteries and both units, unscrewed end cap...put back on hit fire button rapid succession 5x times unit comes back on...hmmm

Ended up turning the watts on the display down to 4 and then both units functioned flawlessly with the tanks I have on hand...the Tornado RCS head from factory is 2.4Ω (reads 2.4Ω on the display), the vivi nova mini has a 2.8Ω head (reads 2.9Ω on display), usb bypass clearomizer, read 2.2Ω on my cheapo multimeter (reads 2.0Ω on display), I'm not sure if the protection circuit is the culprit behind the shutdowns, the protection circuit is there to protect the battery from external shorts or high current draw situations, not sure if having power turned up is causing the protection circuit to trip...

With that said...setting to 4 watts all the heads (no matter the resistance) hit exactly the same...it took a little while for the vape to build up, gave it a primer puff with a little vapor, 2nd puff more vapor, and 3rd alot more vapor...the vapor was alot cooler than expected (on the 5vdc bypass the steam feels "warm") with lower wattage it must take the coils a few milliseconds to "warm up"

Per the instructions, it says it has reverse battery protection, battery monitoring that shuts the unit down when battery has reached end of charge to prevent pushing the Li-Ion batteries too low a voltage per cell charge, and an amperage limiting system to protect against high current situations, and thermal monitoring (pretty much a Li-Ion protection circuit built in...not sure if two of them (one in the unit and ones on the battery) aren't causing the shutdowns

Vamo V3 Safety Features:
Reverse battery protection keeps circuit safe if the battery(s) are installed backwards.

Amperage limiting system protects against over current situations.

Thermal Monitoring shut the device off if it dectects a high temperature condition.

Fit atomizer with resistance 1.5 – 5.0 ohm.

Time limit protection function, it will shut down, stop firing with more than 10 seconds per drag/inhale .

LCD display “Low Resistance” if resistance lower than 1.2 ohms, “Low V” if the battery voltage is less than 3.2 volts.

On a short circuit, OLED will read “SHORT”

Note:
Don’t be alarmed if you hear a “pulsing” or rattlesnake sound, noise coming from your tank coils on the Vamo V3. It is normal, it is called Pulse Width Modulation (PWM) Vamo feature

Overall I am impressed, this is my first APV so I really don't have alot of comparison experience to go on, these rigs were a whopping $32.18 from fasttech
http://www.fasttech.com/products/0/...-v3-brass-e-cigarette-mod-battery-compartment
 
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WarHawk-AVG

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Ok, problem solved!!! Was NOT able to run my VAMO over 4 watts without the system shutting down and having to "reset" it by unscrewing battery. I currently have a TrustFire 18630 in it...

I DO NOT RECOMMEND doing this but since I didn't have another solution available I removed the protection circuit from my battery..I ordered 2 new 18650's from rtdvapors http://www.rtdvapor.com/images/stories/virtuemart/product/18650.jpg

I followed this guys example here How to remove protection circuit from 18650 batteries. - Laser Pointers

Put back in my VAMO...turned it on...turned to 7 watts...good hit, haven't splody splody

If you have any other way to get an unprotected IMR battery do it...

Be careful...the battery protection circuity is there to protect from external high current draw situations (aka a short) if there is no protection and you short it...KABLOOEY!!!!
 

Nibiru2012

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Thank you for the very good review and the analysis of using protected batteries with a unit that has built-in protection.

I plan on upgrading to a VAMO V3 and now I know also, thanks to your discovery, that one cannot stack the 18350 batteries, that it's an either/or situation.

Great job with the attached photos too!

~Nibs :thumb:
 

darkpoet

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I'm pretty sure you can stack 18350s. There are more than a few videos on Youtube that show it. At least in the V2s. And apparently the oscillating on/off of the Vamo/Bamboo disappears with them in it and the output becomes more stable (on par with high-end VVs like the Provari).

BUT yes, I think the protected batteries would pose a problem. Also, a few sites recommend using flat-top batteries and not button-tops.

I'll be ordering 2 flat-top Li-MN IMR EFest batteries later next week. I'll re-post when I can say 100% for sure.
 

darkpoet

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Well... got my 18350s and I can confirm it fits in my Vamo V2. Enquiring the voltage from the Vamo and the display shows "8V" and it fires normally. Alas, the oscillating appears to still be present... but different. It was hard to tell by sound alone, so I dug out my multimeter... I wish I had an oscilloscope to dig deeper, but... here are some numbers.

The first number is the Vamo setting (ie. 3V). The number directly after that is the multimeter DC reading (ie. 1.42) and the number in square parentheses is the multimeter AC reading (ie. 2.9). I'm guessing the DC reading indicates an averaged voltage output and the AC reading gives the total height of the voltage wave (a 4V battery measures 8.0 on the AC). Interesting that the 8V input yields smaller numbers overall... which I am guessing means a smoother wave pattern. I expected differently since 8V input is surely capable of outputting a steady DC 3 to 6V without a wave... but... oh well, if I want that, maybe I better get a Provari.

18650x1 (4V)
3V = 1.42 DC / 2.9 AC (1.45)
4V = 2.55 DC / 5.3 AC (2.65)
5V = 4.10 DC / 8.5 AC (4.25)
6V = 5.97 DC / 12.5 AC (6.25)

18350x2 (8V)
3V = 1.00 DC / 2.1 AC (1.05)
4V = 1.93 DC / 4.0 AC (2.00)
5V = 3.01 DC / 6.3 AC (3.15)
6V = 4.49 DC / 9.5 AC (4.25)

One thing is obvious... 6V on a single battery actually spikes the voltage ABOVE 6V... no matter how briefly...
 

WarHawk-AVG

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Well... got my 18350s and I can confirm it fits in my Vamo V2. Enquiring the voltage from the Vamo and the display shows "8V" and it fires normally. Alas, the oscillating appears to still be present... but different. It was hard to tell by sound alone, so I dug out my multimeter... I wish I had an oscilloscope to dig deeper, but... here are some numbers.

The first number is the Vamo setting (ie. 3V). The number directly after that is the multimeter DC reading (ie. 1.42) and the number in square parentheses is the multimeter AC reading (ie. 2.9). I'm guessing the DC reading indicates an averaged voltage output and the AC reading gives the total height of the voltage wave (a 4V battery measures 8.0 on the AC). Interesting that the 8V input yields smaller numbers overall... which I am guessing means a smoother wave pattern. I expected differently since 8V input is surely capable of outputting a steady DC 3 to 6V without a wave... but... oh well, if I want that, maybe I better get a Provari.

18650x1 (4V)
3V = 1.42 DC / 2.9 AC (1.45)
4V = 2.55 DC / 5.3 AC (2.65)
5V = 4.10 DC / 8.5 AC (4.25)
6V = 5.97 DC / 12.5 AC (6.25)

18350x2 (8V)
3V = 1.00 DC / 2.1 AC (1.05)
4V = 1.93 DC / 4.0 AC (2.00)
5V = 3.01 DC / 6.3 AC (3.15)
6V = 4.49 DC / 9.5 AC (4.25)

One thing is obvious... 6V on a single battery actually spikes the voltage ABOVE 6V... no matter how briefly...
Makes sense...more voltage, the less the boost/buffer circuit has to work

Thanks for the info!!
 
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