Authentic Svoemesto Kayfun 5

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qorax

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@qorax is the man. I just happened across his kayfun 4 review some time ago and chased him down the rabbit hole. I have a small collection of various K's thanks to him!
Thanx for the accolades dear sir! I've 6 x tanks in my daily rotation ~ 2 x I carry to work (alongwith two cigalikes - My.Von Erls), 4 x remain at home - to splurge into the moment I return (as the previous 2 get refreshed and filled up for the next day). However, in any case there's one Kayfun always in it :)
 

BuGlen

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I've been able to resolve all leaking issues with my two K5s by replacing o-rings:

1. Seeping from Bottom: Both had this issue. Replaced the two bottom o-rings (AFC and the little one at the very bottom) and tighten the hex nut. Both dry as a bone ever since.

2. Seeping from AFC Slots: Only one had this issue. Replaced the JFC o-ring and it's been dry as a bone ever since. I knew this wasn't a wicking issue since the builds/wicks on both were virtually identical.

Be sure the replacement rings are lubed (I use olive oil).

It's a tad disappointing to have to swap out o-rings on a $100+ Svoemesto, but glad I found a fix that works.

I guess it makes sense that those o-rings would eventually wear out, especially the JFC o-rings. When you twist the base off to close the JFC, or when you adjust the AFC, the metal parts are rubbing against those o-rings causing wear. In any case, it's good to have all the sizes posted here so we can always get replacements.
 

KY_Rob

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All of this talk about replacing o-rings makes me want to give the KF5's one more "final" try.
When the tanks were new, I did lube them as the directions stated, using the juice I normally vape.
I guess I never mentioned that a leak never occurred for me on the initial tank full after a rebuild. Only starts leaking on me after I fill it again.
I'm going to hold tight until those that have replaced o-rings have used them a while. I've got a feeling KF5 is an o-ring eater :D
 

Bronze

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All of this talk about replacing o-rings makes me want to give the KF5's one more "final" try.
When the tanks were new, I did lube them as the directions stated, using the juice I normally vape.
I guess I never mentioned that a leak never occurred for me on the initial tank full after a rebuild. Only starts leaking on me after I fill it again.
I'm going to hold tight until those that have replaced o-rings have used them a while. I've got a feeling KF5 is an o-ring eater :D
Rob, O-rings are just one possible cause. Obviously if you have a damaged or worn O-ring it will leak on you and is worthy of pursuing as a fix. But I also maintain another major cause of leakage is how the K5 is wicked. And the leading cause of this is using too little wicking material. People's instincts are to use less wick, not more. That is backwards thinking. Make your wicks thicker, not thinner. I'm talking about the diameter of the wick (not the length). You would be remiss if you did not try this as part of your solution strategy. Lift the coil a bit higher from the air hole as well. Thinner wicks will drip. Thicker wicks will retain the e-liquid.
 

qorax

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Rob, O-rings are just one possible cause. Obviously if you have a damaged or worn O-ring it will leak on you and is worthy of pursuing as a fix. But I also maintain another major cause of leakage is how the K5 is wicked. And the leading cause of this is using too little wicking material. People's instincts are to use less wick, not more. That is backwards thinking. Make your wicks thicker, not thinner. I'm talking about the diameter of the wick (not the length). You would be remiss if you did not try this as part of your solution strategy. Lift the coil a bit higher from the air hole as well. Thinner wicks will drip. Thicker wicks will retain the e-liquid.
Perfectly opined. And also refresh your wicks frequently. Old wicks (in a coil) wear out of their wicking capability -- even if they look neat. I rewick every 6-8ml, whatever the atty it may be.
 

Bronze

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Perfectly opined. And also refresh your wicks frequently. Old wicks (in a coil) wear out of their wicking capability -- even if they look neat. I rewick every 6-8ml, whatever the atty it may be.
When I replaced my O-ring I saw a small piece of O-ring left behind. It was a very small shard. I couldn't see where it was missing on the O-ring but that's because I don't see so well. But somehow I damaged my O-ring. So it can happen. I always lube my O-rings but admit I forget to do it on occasion. I know it as soon as I try to turn the JFC. I'll go back in and lube them up but in the meantime I've twisted my JFC unlubed enough times where I may have damaged them.
 

magicmyst

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Kayfun5 O-ring sizes:
Body:

1) Under the pos pole: 7x1.5 (6x1.5 will work)
2) Under the airhole base: 10x1
3) Tank seal: 11x1 (10x1 will work)
4) Chimney seal: 10x1​
Tank:
5) Bottom: 18x1.5
6) Upper: 18x1.5​
Topcap:
7) Chimney seal: 5x1.5 (6x1.5 will work)
8) Topcap to tank: 11x1 (10x1 will work)
9) Driptip: 6x1.5
10) Driptip: 6x1.5​
*But the size quoted is the best fit
Ps: -There are ten O-rings used in the K5 :)
-All are Nitrile/NBR70.​
This is cool info, but doesn't really help most of us who have no way of measuring o-rings! When I've replaced them, I had to do it by eyeball comparison!
 

qorax

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This is cool info, but doesn't really help most of us who have no way of measuring o-rings! When I've replaced them, I had to do it by eyeball comparison!
Thank you ma'am.
O-Rings-size.jpg

1. Using a standard ruler measure the OD and ID of the O-ring.
2. OD (-) ID gives you the CS.
3. When we say the size of the O-ring is 7x1.5 ~ it means 7 is the OD and 1.5 is the CS.
4. Upon purchase kindly packet each O-ring in separate pouches, with clearly marking their size on the pouch.
 

LAwaters

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Thank you ma'am.
View attachment 604801
1. Using a standard ruler measure the OD and ID of the O-ring.
2. OD (-) ID gives you the CS.
3. When we say the size of the O-ring is 7x1.5 ~ it means 7 is the OD and 1.5 is the CS.
4. Upon purchase kindly packet each O-ring in separate pouches, with clearly marking their size on the pouch.

Great information - thanks! I've added a link to your post to the OP of this thread. :thumbs:
 

Ca Ike

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Howdy peeps? Just re-coiled it's younger sibling :)



Sorry for a right post in a wrong thread ;)


Nice Q. I'm assuming you used 28g. I'm partial to using 30 or 32g for twisted coils myself. Fits much easier on small deck attys and easier to get above 1ohm with 10 wraps or less.
 

qorax

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Nice Q. I'm assuming you used 28g. I'm partial to using 30 or 32g for twisted coils myself. Fits much easier on small deck attys and easier to get above 1ohm with 10 wraps or less.
Thanx brother. It is 28 over 26. 26gauge is the core wire.
 
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Bronze

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BTW, for those with chronic leaking. If you forgot to turn off your JFC to fill your tank you will inevitably flood your atty. If you do this, take it apart and clean it completely in warm water. I find once the thing has been flooded it's shot. I take it apart and clean the whole thing up, rewick it, etc and put it back together.

Once you flood an atty you create pathways for juice to follow right out the airway. Liquid likes to flow on other liquid. Keep the inside of your chimney (including deck) dry. Ideally you just want your wicks wet.
 

Mactavish

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BTW, for those with chronic leaking. If you forgot to turn off your JFC to fill your tank you will inevitably flood your atty. If you do this, take it apart and clean it completely in warm water. I find once the thing has been flooded it's shot. I take it apart and clean the whole thing up, rewick it, etc and put it back together.

Once you flood an atty you create pathways for juice to follow right out the airway. Liquid likes to flow on other liquid. Keep the inside of your chimney (including deck) dry. Ideally you just want your wicks wet.

EXCELLENT point!
 

Mada

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BTW, for those with chronic leaking. If you forgot to turn off your JFC to fill your tank you will inevitably flood your atty. If you do this, take it apart and clean it completely in warm water. I find once the thing has been flooded it's shot. I take it apart and clean the whole thing up, rewick it, etc and put it back together.

Once you flood an atty you create pathways for juice to follow right out the airway. Liquid likes to flow on other liquid. Keep the inside of your chimney (including deck) dry. Ideally you just want your wicks wet.
Will try this
 

KY_Rob

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Does any one figured out the cause of the leak ? Is it the o rings ? Or the large juice holes ? The KF mini v3 has very similar design and it never leaks

I'm (finally) going to try replacing the o-rings and lube them up realllly good tomorrow morning. If that doesn't work, I'll have some KF5's ready for another owner real soon. I'll give it a few days and see how things go before reporting back here.
 

Mada

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i am trying now the last option to stop the leaking. I used 1.5mm screw driver to separate the wick from the positive deck. I think some one mentioned this before in the thread and i watched a video yesterday showing the same. I also open the JFC only 1 turn. I rewicked my 2 KF5's this way and will monitor it for the next 24 hours and report back.
 
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