I gently pulsed it to be sure and the build itself seems fine to me. Anyway, I'm not going near TC mode until I know what I'm doing and it's apparent that I don't know what I'm doing.
New studies find carcinogens in vg and pg at high temps, even in tootle puffers
- Thread starter mikepetro
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Please don't be too offended @mikepetro
Disclaimer; these are my opinions and should not be misconstrued as an attempt to proclaim the truth and change anybody's opinion. After all, you are entitled to your own.
And here it comes;
The dreaded, aforementioned, assumed (quietly)...
Sales pitch!!!
Ok, I'm done. I think I'll leave you to it.
Enjoy your new evolv temperature control devices.
Disclaimer; these are my opinions and should not be misconstrued as an attempt to proclaim the truth and change anybody's opinion. After all, you are entitled to your own.
And here it comes;
The dreaded, aforementioned, assumed (quietly)...
Sales pitch!!!
Ok, I'm done. I think I'll leave you to it.
Enjoy your new evolv temperature control devices.
Seems to be a few folks here that have a genuine interest in TC vaping but are intimidated by the thought. Either they think it's too hard to understand or feel like they are lost in all the techy talk?
Maybe there is a basic tc thread here already? Or maybe I should start a tc thread that describes things in layman's terms without all the heavy math and over the top techy talk?
"TC Vaping for Dummys"? or "TC Vaping 101"?
If this post gets 20 likes I'll start a thread if one doesn't exist already.
Maybe there is a basic tc thread here already? Or maybe I should start a tc thread that describes things in layman's terms without all the heavy math and over the top techy talk?
"TC Vaping for Dummys"? or "TC Vaping 101"?
If this post gets 20 likes I'll start a thread if one doesn't exist already.
there should be some pico users here who can advise you but if i remember right there is no wattage adjustment in tc mode. you adjust by the temp settings
Well, yes and no. The biggest problem for me is the wires--most of them are questionable, as far as safety goes, and many (like nickel) are impossible to work with. Just look at kiba's post quoted above.
"Can someone please explain to me why all mods, particularly new ones coming out still have nickel and stainless 316? Ti I understand but does anyone actually use those? Theyre both awful in separate ways, SS316 is horribly inaccurate and nickel is very soft and taste like dirty coins... & all 3 shouldn't be dry burned unlike many of the better TC wires. Wouldn't it be more helpful to have NiFe52, Ti and SS 430 or at least 316L as the defaults? On my DNA's Ive deleted all of that other nonsense."
Stainless steel? I'm not convinced. I've read about all those different alloys, and all of them have issues. The only one that I see myself using right now is the 430, but I don't even know if I have a mod that comes with a tcr setting. I'll have to look into it. With Kanthal, I know (well, I'm pretty sure) that I'm safe--I know that when heated, Kanthal wire (iron-chromium-aluminum) builds up an aluminum oxide insulating coating on its outside surface that protects the individual coils from shorting and me from inhaling God knows what. So this knowledge is reassuring TO ME. Thanks, @MacTechVpr .
On the subject of that study that started this thread (and John's presentation)... My takeaway.
For starters, one swallow does not a summer make. This is but one study, funded internally through California Department of Public Health. At least two of the authors, (Principal Investigator?) Ping Wang and Kazukiyo Kumagai, are affiliated with Indoor Air Quality Program, Environmental Health Laboratory, California Department of Public Health. If that's not a conflict of interest I don't know what is. The study was not peer reviewed and published online only--AFAIK. The methodology of the study is also highly questionable--they forced eliquid into a cylinder? How does that even resemble real-life vaping conditions???? So color my highly suspicious.
Especially since the next video in your OP (by Kurt) seems to state the exact opposite. Kurt insists that all studies should be done using real-life vaping devices and 3rd gen only, as those are most commonly used nowadays and, according to his findings, produce negligible levels of aldehydes and other nasties. Honestly, I trust Kurt and Dr. Farsalinos much more than I trust California Dept. of Public Health. I hope Dr. F will chime in soon--maybe with his own study results.
As for John's presentation? Well, they make TC circuit boards, so of course they like the study. I'm not trying to insinuate anything, I love Evolv and their work, but my eyes are wide open.
Vaping is not safe--it's just safer than smoking. Vaping has risks. We don't know enough. But we're leaning. And learning is fun!
Again, thanks @mikepetro for the thread!
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oth @mikepetro what is that freeware you mentioned that sort of mimics escribe and can be downloaded to certain lower end mods? was the pico one of them and how complicated is it?there should be some pico users here who can advise you but if i remember right there is no wattage adjustment in tc mode. you adjust by the temp settings
That was my understanding as well. I don't know what happened and when I took the RBA apart the cotton was still white. I did get a dry hit and still trying to get that taste out of my mouth. If I wasn't at risk before, I sure am now after that experiment.there should be some pico users here who can advise you but if i remember right there is no wattage adjustment in tc mode. you adjust by the temp settings
Edit: It was either a dry hit, or burnt hit, but with the cotton still white I'm confused.
Well, yes and no. The biggest problem for me is the wires--most of them are questionable, as far as safety goes, and many (like nickel) are impossible to work with. Just look at kiba's post quoted above.
"Can someone please explain to me why all mods, particularly new ones coming out still have nickel and stainless 316? Ti I understand but does anyone actually use those? Theyre both awful in separate ways, SS316 is horribly inaccurate and nickel is very soft and taste like dirty coins... & all 3 shouldn't be dry burned unlike many of the better TC wires. Wouldn't it be more helpful to have NiFe52, Ti and SS 430 or at least 316L as the defaults? On my DNA's Ive deleted all of that other nonsense."
Stainless steel? I'm not convinced. I've read about all those different alloys, and all of them have issues. The only one that I see myself using right now is the 430, but I don't even know if I have a mod that comes with a tcr setting. I'll have to look into it. With Kanthal, I know (well, I'm pretty sure) that I'm safe--I know that when heated, Kanthal wire (iron-chromium-aluminum) builds up an aluminum oxide insulating coating on its outside surface that protects the individual coils from shorting and me from inhaling God knows what. So this knowledge is reassuring TO ME. Thanks, @MacTechVpr .
On the subject of that study the started this thread (and John's presentation)... My takeaway.
For starters, one swallow does not a summer make. This is but one study, funded internally through California Department of Public Health. At least two of the authors, (Principal Investigator?) Ping Wang and Kazukiyo Kumagai are affiliated with Indoor Air Quality Program, Environmental Health Laboratory, California Department of Public Health. The study was not peer reviewed and published online only--AFAIK. The methodology of the study is also highly questionable--they forced eliquid into a cylinder? How does that even resemble real-life vaping conditions???? So color my highly suspicious.
Especially since the next video in your OP (by Kurt) seems to state the exact opposite. Kurt insists that all studies should be done using real-life vaping devices and 3rd gen only, as those as most commonly used nowadays and, according to his findings, produce negligible levels of aldehydes and other nasties. Honestly, I trust Kurt and Dr. Farsalinos much more than I trust California Dept. of Public Health. I hope Dr. F will chime in soon--maybe with his own study results.
Vaping is not safe--it's just safer than smoking. Vaping has risks. We don't know enough. But we're leaning. And learning is fun!
Again, thanks @mikepetro for the thread!
I'm sure the good doctor will chime in soon.
Thanks, couldn't remember the term, it's been a while.
As far as your built on SS at 540.. I'm curious to what these built were.
I've been building on SS for a while now (and TC all the time), and I build my coils (duals) from 2.5 to 4mm, ohm range from 0.2 to 0.8, and.. checking my mods which I rebuild a few just last night*
1) Conqueror tank*, postless deck: dual 3.5mm, 0.3ohm, 26 gauge, 45W, and it's nice and warm at 310F
2) OBS Crius*:dual 2.5mm, 0.28ohm, 26 gauge, 45W, and it's nice and warm at 350F
3) OBS Engine (22mm):dual 3.5mm, 0.45ohm, 26 gauge, 40W, and it's nice and warm at 260F, built's been on it for at least a week, and it's still clean and like new.
And my other tanks are all similar... what I've seen is that anything over 480-500F, it's usually due to built-up or hot spots, or the coil chocked by too much cotton.
I've taken to TC a long while now, started with NI200, never had issues, just had to learn to space my coils right and wicking, but overall, I took to it without issues.
The Pico TC mode can change the wattage easily, just read your instructions...
It's kinda sad here... you say "I don't like it", yet, aren't even taking 10 seconds to check how to set your mod correctly.
"Learning" to use TC.. geeezzz it's "set your wattage at something balanced for your coil" which you'd do anyways, and then set the temp... try it, if too hot, lower it, if too cold, increase it...
On average, if you're using 26 or 28 gauge at 0.3 to 0.8 ohm, try at 45W and test at 300F and go from there.
THAT'S IT! nothing else, nothing more....It's not wizardry here.
Remember, temperature is "king" and seeing the coil glow red means the temperature was way too high. I'd suggest lowering the temperature a tad, or two, and get a real TC mod that allows power and temperature adjustment. I have a Kanger DB160 that works just like the Pico, when in TC mode, and I only use it in power mode since the TC mode is so p*** poor.
Yes, I am offended....
I was an enthusiast with new tech and I reviewed it and promoted the concept because I believed in it.
But you are entitled to your opinion.
The real problem, like I already said.. people are set in their ways... how dare anyone say that there's a better way... it MUST be hard.
TC for dummies?
It's not even worth a thread to be honest... people are just being difficult about it because they don't what to try it and making up excuses.
Here's all that one needs to know about TC:
1) NI and TI are for TC ONLY, never use them in watt mode. SS can be used in either.
2) stop aiming for uber low ohms, 0.2 should be the lowest and works great going up to 0.9ohm easily, TC works better with enough wire in there... SS needs more than NI and TI to register correctly, so single SS coils need to be as large as you can fit on your deck.
3) coils should be spaced, SS can be dry burned (very gently) to test, but not NI or TI, so learn to do spaced coils with no hotspots. Still need to test... then wick it, prime it well, trigger and watch the "boiling" on the coil and ensure that it's even across the whole coil.
4) set wattage at 30-45W to start, set your Temp at 300F. Adjust as needed. Remember that Watts will be how fast it'll heat up, and the Temp is where it stops heating.
That's it, in four easy step...
I am sorry you are offended.
I am not because of your polite post.
We will agree to disagree on this matter for now.
I hope I don't have to humbly apologise should (in my view) a more respectable report by which elvolv and your opinions are reputed while mine, refuted...
If, as you say in your post, everything was conducted in good faith, then you have my sincerest apologies for implying anything but.
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