Post pictures of your working wick and coil setup

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jj6404

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Titanium is biocompatible. SS is up there too. It's safer just from the point of view that atoms from the wire could be released along with the aerosol. Inhaling atoms from titanium would be not harmful to tissue. You can cut yourself with any blade and get infected exactly the same if all the blades have the exact same amount contaminants on them. The difference of more or less harmful is which blades retain less contaminants. The reason why they operate with SS tools in hospitals.
So we could inhale titanium particles for years and years and it would not be harmful? And my point was that the electron microscope experiment showed that the kanthal wire did not show any signs of losing particles after use. So if we aren't inhaling any particles, and the metal doesn't impart any of its mass into the liquid, then does it matter which metal we use for coils?

I'm only playing devil's advocate here. The other guy kept saying biocompatible too but what does that really mean and what are you really saying? We're not eating the kanthal. We're not inhaling kanthal particles as far as we know. And so what if titanium and SS is biocompatible?? You think inhaling particles of steel every puff for years and years is just fine and healthy?

And if SS is so good for vaping, why was it explored just a little bit in the past and just now starting to show up again in a handful of tank coil heads?

I know it was explored in the past with g-plat but why didn't it take off and replace kanthal or nichrome? They found manganese in it. From the steel or g-plat added it?? I don't know. I'm not a metallurgist but g-plat has been tested multiple times and proved to be annealed 317 SS. Manganese is toxic.


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DonCon

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Hello everyone! I've been lurking on this thread for a while and have seen some pretty amazing builds. Just have a few questions if anyone can help. What is the best coil build for a dense warm vape with minimal spitback? Currently I'm vaping a dual coil build 26g I think like 7wraps coming in at .3 on a royal hunter rda. The vape is good not amazing and my tounge hurts from constantly getting hit with spit back. Currently I have 3 spools of wire 24,26 and 28g a1 kanthal I was thinking about trying a Clapton tomorrow 24g wrapped with 28g.


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USMCotaku

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Hello everyone! I've been lurking on this thread for a while and have seen some pretty amazing builds. Just have a few questions if anyone can help. What is the best coil build for a dense warm vape with minimal spitback? Currently I'm vaping a dual coil build 26g I think like 7wraps coming in at .3 on a royal hunter rda. The vape is good not amazing and my tounge hurts from constantly getting hit with spit back. Currently I have 3 spools of wire 24,26 and 28g a1 kanthal I was thinking about trying a Clapton tomorrow 24g wrapped with 28g.


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24/28 Clapton will have a pretty slow ramp up time, unless you are running it on a higher powered VW mod. Expect some spitting out of it. I've got a dual Clapton 24/28 on my variant now..... It's a beast, but doesn't stop spitting till around 120 watts+ or below 75 and the ramp up is pretty slow that low.
I get much less spitting and great flavor out of a 28/32 Clapton at around 80 watts
 

USMCotaku

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I have a sigelei 100+ you think a single Clapton 24/28 would ramp up quick enough? (I'm asking cuz you said that I would need 120 watts to avoid spitting on a dual Clapton build)


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Yeah, ramp up will be ok on that. Not instant, but not bad.

Edit: If you are running it at 100, ramp up is pretty quick. But at 100 I'm still getting spit back
 

jj6404

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Hello everyone! I've been lurking on this thread for a while and have seen some pretty amazing builds. Just have a few questions if anyone can help. What is the best coil build for a dense warm vape with minimal spitback? Currently I'm vaping a dual coil build 26g I think like 7wraps coming in at .3 on a royal hunter rda. The vape is good not amazing and my tounge hurts from constantly getting hit with spit back. Currently I have 3 spools of wire 24,26 and 28g a1 kanthal I was thinking about trying a Clapton tomorrow 24g wrapped with 28g.


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If you're getting spitback from a standard build then you're gonna get hot globs of e liquid from a flavor build. Claptons and the like make dense flavorful vapor because they trap juice in their nooks and crannies and vaporize more juice at once than standard coils. I never really got spitback until I started building advanced builds. Does the royal hunter have an inner afc? The only advice I can give is to angle your coils or pull them to the edge of the deck. I do believe, though, that for some reason fused claptons have less spitback than regular claptons.

Oh and BTW, yeah, 24/28g claptons is huge for one thing, and the spitback will be nasty. You need at least 32 gauge but I only use 36 gauge and up. I think the smaller the gauge, the tighter the wraps and the less the spitback.


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DonCon

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No the only air flow on the royal hunter it the two cell phone bar looking things on the sides. Also after reading what you said and other info I found online I feel my coils maybe to close to the center post. I'm going to rebuild them tomorrow with them closer to the outside edge. And I have one last question and it's a super beginner question what is the difference between a reg clapton and a fused one? Sorry for the dumb question.


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jj6404

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If you're getting spitback from a standard build then you're gonna get hot globs of e liquid from a flavor build. Claptons and the like make dense flavorful vapor because they trap juice in their nooks and crannies and vaporize more juice at once than standard coils. I never really got spitback until I started building advanced builds. Does the royal hunter have an inner afc? The only advice I can give is to angle your coils or pull them to the edge of the deck. I do believe, though, that for some reason fused claptons have less spitback than regular claptons.

Oh and BTW, yeah, 24/28g claptons is huge for one thing, and the spitback will be nasty. You need at least 32 gauge but I only use 36 gauge and up. I think the smaller the gauge, the tighter the wraps and the less the spitback.

If I were you and you can't get your hands on any smaller wire, then I would try doing 28 over 28 as a clapton. That was actually the first clapton I ever built. It won't be easy but it's the best you can do with what you have. You won't need 120 watts to get it going either.
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jj6404

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No the only air flow on the royal hunter it the two cell phone bar looking things on the sides. Also after reading what you said and other info I found online I feel my coils maybe to close to the center post. I'm going to rebuild them tomorrow with them closer to the outside edge. And I have one last question and it's a super beginner question what is the difference between a reg clapton and a fused one? Sorry for the dumb question.


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Yes but there is an air flow control piece usually connected to the top cap that allows you to adjust the airflow, like turn it to cut off portions of those cell phone bar holes....right? That would be the afc. It's most likely an inner afc so it would not allow you to pull your coils as far as you would on, say, the El Cabron rda because the El Cabron has an outer afc so nothing goes into the inside of the barrel, so nothing lessens the diameter of your building space.


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Tom Forde

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Thanks Tom Forde, i shall try some time soon hopefully when i get 5 mins :)

The Alienwire coil i made a little while back is still going strong, is the only thing ive been vaping on since i made it, i really rate it highly
I really wish I could just get the alien coil down already! I don't have the patience to do the alien wrap all in one shot without messing up. I always get to about an inch, and then ONE WRAP goes wrong and the whole coil is killed. I got 4" down perfect, then once again, that one wrap had to mess up and killed the whole coil
 

proteckt3d

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So we could inhale titanium particles for years and years and it would not be harmful? And my point was that the electron microscope experiment showed that the kanthal wire did not show any signs of losing particles after use. So if we aren't inhaling any particles, and the metal doesn't impart any of its mass into the liquid, then does it matter which metal we use for coils?

I'm only playing devil's advocate here. The other guy kept saying biocompatible too but what does that really mean and what are you really saying? We're not eating the kanthal. We're not inhaling kanthal particles as far as we know. And so what if titanium and SS is biocompatible?? You think inhaling particles of steel every puff for years and years is just fine and healthy?

And if SS is so good for vaping, why was it explored just a little bit in the past and just now starting to show up again in a handful of tank coil heads?

I know it was explored in the past with g-plat but why didn't it take off and replace kanthal or nichrome? They found manganese in it. From the steel or g-plat added it?? I don't know. I'm not a metallurgist but g-plat has been tested multiple times and proved to be annealed 317 SS. Manganese is toxic.


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To me, Ti is probably less harmful. Not not harmful for sure. The answer to your question will only come after proper testing.
 

Nickstive

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I really wish I could just get the alien coil down already! I don't have the patience to do the alien wrap all in one shot without messing up. I always get to about an inch, and then ONE WRAP goes wrong and the whole coil is killed. I got 4" down perfect, then once again, that one wrap had to mess up and killed the whole coil
I feel you on that. Everything is going great and you get excited that this is gonna be the one and then it all goes south and you have to start over. It's an issue of maintaining perfect tension on the clapton wire.

m.terk on instragram posted a video showing him wrapping a bunch of alien claptons. He anchors the free end of the core with a fishing spinner and lays the drill on its side. It works perfectly.
 

Tom Forde

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I feel you on that. Everything is going great and you get excited that this is gonna be the one and then it all goes south and you have to start over. It's an issue of maintaining perfect tension on the clapton wire.

m.terk on instragram posted a video showing him wrapping a bunch of alien claptons. He anchors the free end of the core with a fishing spinner and lays the drill on its side. It works perfectly.
Yeah, I've done that before with long lengths of fused claptons, but with 3 cores it's harder to do while keeping them all straight and the wire tension even. For me it's about actually finishing the wraps from start to end. It's taxing having to keep consistent tension and pressure on the wrap
 

jonnychadootz

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n62hah.jpg

26 gauge (.75 ohm)

4v5u05.jpg

26/28 gauge (.85 ohm)

261j05j.jpg

26/30 gauge (1.something)

Decided to make some flattened coils today. I'm lucky kanthal is inexpensive :)
 

Retro138

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First Clapton build. As per usual I wrote these builds off til I made one and vaped it, I'm a stubborn bast@#*d. Not as hard to make as my mind told me. I'm glad I made this. Working on a fused Clapton now.

I am very aware that this build has nothing on what I see here, I just have that "proud papa" feeling towards this twisted up wire. 26 core / 28 wrap measuring 0.4 ohms.

image.jpg
 

MacTechVpr

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I couldn't really have a very accurate assumption of how they heat. I know I don't feel any change in the taste vapor or TH so I suppose it heats as even as before. And yes before when I was dry burning them before wicking, there were no hot spots, I was just doing it for the sake of checking. As far as I'm aware the real shorts and hot stops come with the tensioned contact coils but I couldn't explain why because I never got into that.

You are correct, microcoils are shorts. However the purpose of a tensioned microcoil is to create the optimal relationship of turns so that the wind can be uniformly oxidized. It's not, it will short. Just like a formed coil which can't reach the potential of a strained coil for uniformity. So it exhibits loss in the form of diffusion to air as res goes unpredictably higher. As I just commented on earlier on another thread the deficiency shows up in operation and not during preparation as you must use high voltage to finish forming a hand wind into close contact. When you're cookin' the wind into high-red yellow zone everything looks just dandy (including the leads on an overtightened coil). Even, balanced moderate strain's the ticket.

It applies to all that the more symmetrical in form and strain the wind the better the output…if it's a contact coil.

G'luck p3d.

:)
 
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SLIPPY_EEL

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Johnnychad i really like the first one the 26g ;) nice.



Yeah, I've done that before with long lengths of fused claptons, but with 3 cores it's harder to do while keeping them all straight and the wire tension even. For me it's about actually finishing the wraps from start to end. It's taxing having to keep consistent tension and pressure on the wrap

when i make the 3strand alien i give each wire its own clamp in the chuck as per some video out there and the rest is constant drill speed once you find the speed plus not holding the 3strand as they spin through your fingers but hold the part thats already been aliened :) easy peasy lol i can do whole lengths now :tongueout:
 
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Tom Forde

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Johnnychad i really like the first one the 26g ;) nice.

when i make the 3strand alien i give each wire its own clamp in the chuck as per some video out there and the rest is constant drill speed once you find the speed plus not holding the 3strand as they spin through your fingers but hold the part thats already been aliened :) easy peasy lol i can do whole lengths now :tongueout:
I actually just got my first 8" of alien down without major mistakes yesterday. Some of the wraps are a little spaced but the majority are pretty great. I'm going to try it out again today but with a longer length
 
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