Serpent RTA by WOTOFO
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If it can be of any help to any body, I had to scrape the paint inside the base of my black serpent because of faulty reading resistance.
To open the base:
By turning the 510 pin screw (clockwise) near completely, without removing it. Screw the base on the mod and the press fit base should unlocked itself. Maybe better using a non spring loaded 510 mod or working base/ohms reader.
Unscrew the serpent. Remove the 510 pin and pull both parts of the base.
Scrape inside of the upper part where it can have contact with the bottom part. You can remove the AF ring and clean/lubricate). Make the same scraping with the bottom part all around on top of it. I reassembled it by pushing both part together.
Problem solved an happy !
For the wicking, nothing really special but even with hi VG I open the JC just by two turn (3 turn and half is full open). More than that can be good for chain vaping.
If somebody have a contact at Wotofo, it can be good to advise that they must change the painting method !
To open the base:
By turning the 510 pin screw (clockwise) near completely, without removing it. Screw the base on the mod and the press fit base should unlocked itself. Maybe better using a non spring loaded 510 mod or working base/ohms reader.
Unscrew the serpent. Remove the 510 pin and pull both parts of the base.
Scrape inside of the upper part where it can have contact with the bottom part. You can remove the AF ring and clean/lubricate). Make the same scraping with the bottom part all around on top of it. I reassembled it by pushing both part together.
Problem solved an happy !
For the wicking, nothing really special but even with hi VG I open the JC just by two turn (3 turn and half is full open). More than that can be good for chain vaping.
If somebody have a contact at Wotofo, it can be good to advise that they must change the painting method !
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I can't get over how amazing this rta is! I've never had flavour like it from a single coil- I can only think it must be the huge air hole in the deck- am running a 7 wrap 26/32awg Clapton and the diameter is pretty much the length of the coil- why have no other manufacturers tried this before?!! I'm strictly a MTL caper and it suits me fine with the airflow dialled right down... Can only think it must be the size of the air hole that's giving such amazing flavour- the chamber is nothing special, and is bigger than a lot of high end single coil flavour rta's I have (ErlK, Squape, Kayfun etc)- it's so good I've ordered another- something I've only done so far with the Cthulhu v2!! Needless to say...I'm impressed with it [emoji6][emoji4]
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Thanks ! Every dicodes product are known for their performances, efficiency and build quality. 2 years waranty with excellent customer service. I also own a dani extreme V2+.
I agree with you. The deck air hole should blow the coil uniformly. Giving much better and stable performances. The juice control is also a big plus.
I'm using only TC mode usually with the Rose V2S, Erlkonigin or Squape Rs for a tighter draw. I enjoy the black serpent with the same setup: NiFe30 3mm 7 distant wraps with cotton beacon (easy but efficient and economic).
The Kanger mini Subtank is on the shelf since I got it... I find the Serpent better or equal on taste than most expensive atomizer. Also very versatil for a wide range of taste.
For the price it's better having at least two of them (but not the black one or you will work to get it correct (see my previous post)
Regards,
Mooky
Absolutely, though its a strange thing, and one thing I noticed when I got the ErlK- the flavour is almost too strong!!- With the mixes I DIY for my other atties (mainly variations on custards and strawberry) and my favourite NET eliquid- it can frazzle your tastbuds a bit! Also- after 5 years of vaping I'm still on 18mg- I know I need to dial this down too for tanks that chuck the vapour such as this- I find it very hard though in my mind to do- I seem to always push the excess- same as I do with coffee!!
Is everybody having problems with the black Serpent? I have 2 SS ones and 2 blacks ones on the way. I'm wondering if I made a mistake with the black ones. 
No problem at all with my black one, just got it two weeks ago & it work's perfect.
X2. Had my black one a couple of weeks as well. No real issues with tc and SS coil. It did have slight juice weeping around a bottom o ring. Took it apart, cleaned o ring and no problems since.
HD
You Should be ok. Maybe I'm the only one to get a defective paint unit.Well that good. I hope you aren't the only one.
You and the others are more lucky than me.
You will see if the resistance make no sense or varying. You can try to get replacement, have fun to remove the paint under the deck or ask to a friend ! Anyways, I'm really pleased with the serpent !
You Should be ok. Maybe I'm the only one to get a defective paint unit.
You and the others are more lucky than me.
You will see if the resistance make no sense or varying. You can try to get replacement, have fun to remove the paint under the deck or ask to a friend ! Anyways, I'm really pleased with the serpent !
I'll be back if I have a problem.
I love the 2 I have. Like others, my Kanger subtanks are collecting dust.
Your not alone on this one. I originally bought 2 black ones and I have 2 SS. The black ones were matte black. One was defective and I returned it. The replacement they sent was more of a glossy black finish. I notice the matte black is very stiff to turn the JFC and AFC. The SS and Gloss black are buttery smooth. My guess is wotofo realized their mistake and started using the gloss finish to replace the the matte. After a couple of months use the matte is a little better but still much stiffer than the others.You Should be ok. Maybe I'm the only one to get a defective paint unit.
You and the others are more lucky than me.
You will see if the resistance make no sense or varying. You can try to get replacement, have fun to remove the paint under the deck or ask to a friend ! Anyways, I'm really pleased with the serpent !
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That's strange. I have 2 SS Serpents and the JC on one is buttery smooth and easy to turn but the other one is harder to turn.
Edit: I got them both at the same place.
Interresting. I Cannot compare but mine not seem to be matte and my AFC is tight but glide well with a little drop of KY
Maybe Wotofo have some weak standards ?
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I am also having connectivity problems with my glossy black Serpent (from fasttech). I can't even use it with my Cuboid, it fails with an "atomizer short" error, even though I am pretty sure that there isn't any internal shorts (it doesn't happen without a coil) and the coil is fine. I believe that what is happening is that the Cuboid is getting inconsistent resistance readings and just refuses to use it. Seeing the interior of base pictures by @Mooky this is hardly surprising, seeing as there is paint where the upper part of the base connects with the lower part (!).
I have tried to disassemble the base by removing the center screw following @Mooky suggestion, without much success, it just won't budge at all. Does anyone has any tips on how to do this ? I would rather not have to wait 3 months for slowtech to send me a replacement.
I have tried to disassemble the base by removing the center screw following @Mooky suggestion, without much success, it just won't budge at all. Does anyone has any tips on how to do this ? I would rather not have to wait 3 months for slowtech to send me a replacement.
I use all 4 of my serpents pretty much exclusively on the cuboid. Never had a connection issue but I use heat sinks in all my mods to preserve the 510 integrity and of course for the adjustable 510 option
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Hi!
I have added procedures in my previous post. Sorry for any inconvenients.
Do not completely remove the 510 screw pin or just near from. Screw the serpent on your mod (preferably fixed 510). Both parts of the base should pop out. Unscrew the serpent, remove the 510 pin screw and pull both parts to separate them.
Good luck and regards,
.
Mooky
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