Here's the serial number on my dishwasher. Is it OK if I post it here or should I go to the dishwasher thread?
I wish I saw this after I swallowed my drink of water...LMAO!!!!!
(Now gotta grab a paper towel and clean off my IPad )
SvoёMesto KAYFUN 4
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I wish I saw this after I swallowed my drink of water...LMAO!!!!!
(Now gotta grab a paper towel and clean off my IPad )
Here's the serial number on my dishwasher. Is it OK if I post it here or should I go to the dishwasher thread?
6 Amp Heater...
I'm Impressed!
The coil is as thick as rebar too. Those pimple-faced boys can't keep up with my cloud chasin'!
At least they said it was a clone when I bought it.
Now I'm really depressed, my KF4 serial number didn't win and now my dishwasher. I just give up. I can't win for losing.
I want to see the picture of you sucking the vape from the vent of that machine. Just pour a bunch of juice in it and turn it on drying cycle. Personally,I like using my dryer, but I have a hard time vaping from the 4" dryer vent tube.
HD
HD
The P3 connector was made too long. I removed the pin and it bottoms out. Nothing can be done about that. My only options are to take a chance with a new one, or put this one on a lathe and trim the end.
I noticed the threads on the P3 don't go all the way down. I wonder if they didn't thread the provari deep enough to accommodate the adapter.
Yep, this appears to be a threading issue. The bottom of the adapter doesn't seem to be bottoming out at all. The threads on the provari aren't deep enough and the threaded portion on the K4's adapter is too long, so the threads bind before the adapter has a chance to bottom out flush.
If the threads were deeper, the adapter would be able to hit flush with about .015" clearance at the bottom. Shaving off the bottom of the adapter likely won't work because you would have to remove a portion of the last thread, and considering there are only about 2.5 threads, that's not a good idea IMO. I will learn to live with the DAMN gap.
I noticed the threads on the P3 don't go all the way down. I wonder if they didn't thread the provari deep enough to accommodate the adapter.
Yep, this appears to be a threading issue. The bottom of the adapter doesn't seem to be bottoming out at all. The threads on the provari aren't deep enough and the threaded portion on the K4's adapter is too long, so the threads bind before the adapter has a chance to bottom out flush.
If the threads were deeper, the adapter would be able to hit flush with about .015" clearance at the bottom. Shaving off the bottom of the adapter likely won't work because you would have to remove a portion of the last thread, and considering there are only about 2.5 threads, that's not a good idea IMO. I will learn to live with the DAMN gap.
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Uuu.. a few pages only about postig serial number pictures.. How should I feel as the one, who posted the picture, that started this rumble... uuuuu..
Where's the number on my stove..
R
Where's the number on my stove..
R
Here's the serial number on my dishwasher. Is it OK if I post it here or should I go to the dishwasher thread?
Too funny!
Sent with no malice and not a whole lot of forethought from my new Galaxy Tab 4. Thanks Santa!
As a mechanic, I'm inclined to think that the P3 not being threaded all the way to its bottom won't matter.
It's like passing a bolt through a nut...once the first part of the bolt has passed through the threads of the nut, the bolt can keep going...unless there's something behind the other end of the nut. (Please hold all nut jokes until the end.)
So, it comes down to the KF4 P3 adapter being too long...which is totally possible. What's going to be difficult to determine, is if the face of the adapter is flushing with the flat face of the P3 (at the bottom, around the floating pin)...I would say that fine measuring devices would be needed to determine the depths and lengths we are dealing with...
Now, all that being said, I am again inclined by my naturally mechanical mind, to lean towards a fix.
It you were to be able to find the measurements involved, you could simply sand/grind the face of the KF4 adapter down, thus creating a shorter bolt. If you do this, make sure to clean its threads up, in case they are marred or damaged by the grinding...even then it would only be the leading edge of the first thread.
Granted, you shouldn't have to do this with an expensive atomizer that costs almost $/£/200, from one of the top creators...but that's life I guess eh?
Being as I don't have the adapter I had to go by the pics but, it looks like the threads stop well short of the end so sanding off enough to let it fit flush shouldn't be a problem. Like HB said though, careful of the threads. In my experience they are easy to mess up and a pain to fix.
Sent with no malice and not a whole lot of forethought from my new Galaxy Tab 4. Thanks Santa!
Btw, about the gurgling with tight draw problems on the V4 for those of us experiencing it: got a reply today from SM, that they "are aware of this problem and are working on it. Individual pieces have been redesigned and tested, but still no optimum solution. They're hoping to release an upgrade in the foreseeable future."
R
R
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That's nice. At least they are aware of it. Maybe they will send out the parts as a no cost upgrade. Doubt it but it would be nice.
Sent with no malice and not a whole lot of forethought from my new Galaxy Tab 4. Thanks Santa!
If you watch P.Busardo's review of the Nautilus, you'll hear him say one key tip about all tank atomizers...
"The tighter the draw, the more juice you pull to the wick. The airier the draw, the less juice you pull to the wick."
So, if you tighten your draw too much, you're going to be pulling juice into the wick. And an over-saturated wick will overpower the coil, thus not burning all the juice off, leaving to go only one place...the center pin...which is what creates a gurgle.
Just my take on that.
This modification still incorporates the spring as a current path.
It just holds it now.
Still a weak link in my opinion, Jim
I thought the same thing at first, but observe the following. The Provari top cap is not like a nut. A nut is threaded through, the top cap is not. Imagine a piece of tubing that was threaded on the inside about 1/4" deep. You could get a screw to go inside about a 1/4", but no further. The threads will interfere and make it stop. That's what is happening with the P3 and K4.
I measured the overall depth of the Provari top cap and the overall length of the threaded boss on the K4 adapter. There is clearance for the overall dimensions of about .008". The end of the adapter will not hit the bottom of the provari top cap. The threads appear to be the limiting factor here since the adapter is short enough to fit inside the top cap. Also, it can't be the floating pin bottoming out because I took the 510 out of the adapter and it still stops. The only thing stopping it from going down flush is the threads. Nothing else is in the way.
I inspected the parts with a dial caliper, drew them, assembled them and have a picture below to illustrate the issue. A picture should clear it up and this represents the actual parts. Notice the clearance at the bottom is greater than the gap. There is room for it to move down, but it doesn't. The K4's 510 pin is not installed, so nothing is touching the P3's contact pin, therefore I didn't draw it because it isn't important here. I hope you understand what I'm saying and illustrating.
That is nice! Pricey, but nice. I don't care for the way the I.D. of the new part will barely catch the hex of the Center Post, but it's probably better than my bushing method, because it eliminates one contact. Of course, my latest bushing makes contact directly with the 510 screw, so we're back to even. The best thing about this piece is that the Air Regulation Screw is accessible.
Saw that last night on FB and posted it in the KF4 clone thread as dwcraig had already done that and shared it with others as well.
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