Mac, I'm not getting the same success with SS wire. Am I correct in assuming it's due to a wholly different oxidising process? I'm finding SS and Nichrome acceptable in Clapton builds, but for plain wire, Kanthal is still my honey.
Mac, I'm not getting the same success with SS wire. Am I correct in assuming it's due to a wholly different oxidising process? I'm finding SS and Nichrome acceptable in Clapton builds, but for plain wire, Kanthal is still my honey.
Find the same. SS is powerful but a lot warmer more diffuse production than strained Kanthal. If that's the goal that's great. If you want a center of density and diffusion you need precise control of the vaporization rate, the means to get to that. If it were as simple as just proper wicking and a resistance everyone would have it. But with open winds you have small variations in resistance that tend to make every wind we do differ slightly or more so.
How do you duplicate a vape experience if you can't precisely repeat it?
SS as you may know doesn't oxidize in the same way. Alumina is an insulator what allows close contact without driving res up. Pulse oxidation locks this into the relationship of turns in a contact coil. This allows a very uniform development of that insulation preserving some rigidity in the process when done right. That's what yields the service life and consistently high density potential. Kanthal is the only wire that exudes alumina. It was designed for this.
After sampling many rebuilt and factory coils nothing I've seen few come close to a Kanthal wind precisely dialed in to your own personal density and heat target. My main goal is to make sure vapers have a tool in hand to simply and neatly get it. Like I've said, a signpost at the crossroads they can always rely upon and get back to.
Me I've very happy living at that intersection most of the time.
Good luck.
Don't understand what breaks this function but it doesn't uniformly when selecting text from alternate threads (tabs, alt windows)
What is the difference between the coil I make with the coil master and a tensioned micro coil?
I have more questions but it’s late, so I will post in the morning.Two ways to shape wire. The first, forming which is to say basically to bend it. The second way is using strain or elongation, stretching.
When you strain wire you begin to alter and reorder its crystalline structure adding rigidity which is why contact coils better retain their precise orientation. Formed wire, even when wound on a known diameter spread and expand when the minimal tension applied by a coiler is released. This doesn't happen with a tensioned wind once you reach the strain or elongation point. The energy imparted to the wire is internalized.
For purposes of oxidation or extruding its alumina content having the wire in as closest and persistent contact as possible helps to ensure adequate and uniform oxidation. Alumina oxidation is thermally conductive but electrically resistive. Ideal to insulate adjacent turns to limit wire-to wire overheating. So the process of tensioning to contact and the resulting oxidation provides a very stable resistance under load (no hot segments in operation). Another way to look at this is as uniform thermal output which is the ideal we seek for maximal performance.
Best of all is that although there is some loss of rigidity using pulse oxidation of the tensioned coil enough is retained that the wind remains coherent far longer than a conventional non-strained wind.
This method results in a typical 25% gain in vaporization rate or vapor output as reported anecdotally by better than 90% of users or testers I surveyed over 3 years and my own participation with many users here in S FL. It's better than that but I lack the lab environment necessary to precisely quantify it for typical winds.
How is this useful? You can build a precise repeatable baseline wind. Any gauge, any resistance. Used wisely you can use the technique to maximize the wetted contact surface. Then optimize wicking or flow for that greater output. Now you're talkin'. Efficiency…at any power level and res you target. And you wound it in 30 seconds or less. Sweet.
Let me know sparks if any questions or doubts. I had more than a few myself.
Best of luck.
I have more questions but it’s late, so I will post in the morning.
Been seeing much talk about not using factory coils on a mech lately. Did I miss something in ecf's history about exploding mechs from using them?
I'd like to place my Nautilus tank on my GP Paps someday....
Bad coils don't lead to exploding mech.... Bad BATTERIES cause exploding mods......
Shorted coils lead to burned out coils.. not vented batteties.
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Ok, thank you for the information. I was not aware. I was under the impression from reading and research that stock coils on a mech mod was a big no no. Always learning I guess.
I've been rollin these coils - and used both spaced and no…to see and taste myself if there is a difference, and if there, how big it is. From what i read , I expect some difference.
Sorry for the confusion. My effort was directed to making a spaced tension coil. I used about a 1½ inch piece of threaded rod; which looks to be about the size of a 2mm machine screw.ID, kinda at a loss whether you're making a contact m.c. or screw wind.
As I mention in the previous post, as soon as I moved the atomizer deck (with the questionable coil still installed) to a second (different) devise, it behaved just fine. I immediately, and consistently (now for more than 24 hours), have and still read a steady 1.88 ohms (which is right were Steam Engine says it should be).But now, if you're winding on a screw a spaced coil, and you're still seeing odd res returns; then, you're looking at some other hardware or contact issue. I'd check it on an alt device or meter.
Actually, aside from the squirrelly initial resistance reading, that is very similar to they way this coil performed. The glow/color was almost immediate, and happened uniformly across the entire coil (vs. starting in the middle and working out to the ends). No hot spots or hot leges were ever noticed.Strained spaced coils will have a tendency to fire more evenly end-to-end but not nearly what you see above (3 frames/sec) time lapse. If you want this, you'll need the smooth bit.
I hope the above helps. If I am still leaving needed information out, just ask, and I will do my best to answer.Not an answer ID but a starting point. Think we can narrow down your issue with some feedback.
Thanks Mac; for your time, patience, AND willingness to help out those of us who are "challenged." Your assistance is greatly appreciated!Good luck.
@MacTechVpr knows more than I, I defer to him above. I do use the VG, kind of wipe the ends down while shaping the wick before I try (with varying success) to get it in the coil.
@MacTechVpr Would you care to give our friend Randy a brief lesson and some links?
This.
I use the same mod, rarely go below .2 in my single coils. The vape is smooth and watm enough and the battery doesn't take a killing.
I agree with the others, looks like the coil is touching something. May have moved it while wicking.
I guess that was Supe V1, as Supe V2 vapes flavored juices, some regulated squonkers, and IIRC even premade coils from others.Discussed the issue and process for many moons with both supe