Tilemahos new rebuildable part (springomizer)
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Ahh I understand. I tried to solve this similar, by making the hole in the base like a konus. But with a changed base this is obsolete. And yes a longer AD pin is then all you need.
By the way, I enjoy the new born ithaka. It works realy good from original ithaka taste and feel to everything tilly has to offer ... I'm surprised how good he takes his stand.
Will you make some new Ithaka V2 then? This atomizer has earned to get a second life.
Be well. And hush, hush back to the workbench. The preorders have to be ready!)
one last question: will the older rebuildable parts work with this base also? Not that it's necessary, but, you know, just in case. Some might like it.
Yes, all the previous parts will work as usual Tax. That was my main purpose when I was designing the new base!
It's a matter of vaping.
Whatever suits you.
V1 cannot be used with silica wicks if you want to set them down to the base because the channels are a little shallow (there is no problem if you cut them flush to the housing)
V2 has rounded cuts in channels for more convenient setups of your cotton
See the pictures below
Nothing special Tax. By reducing the width of the bottom of the GGTS base, the 4 holes of springomizer's center post extension are exposed inside the gap between GGTS base and 510 base. That way the springomizer can breath via the air control and the 510 connection will be sealed via springomizer's AD pin.I'm really curious about to see how you managed to do that.
How will the small collectors tank be sealed without changing the springomizer Center Post?
With the old base I needed 2 O-rings to manage this.
I'll see soon ... I think
Thats in theory because I dont have any Ithaka here to make a test. But I am sure it works. Am I missing something maybe?
As for the sealing of the small collector tank, a hole at 6,5mm on the new GGTS base is sealed ok with the existing o-ring of Ithaka's rebuildable part
i am so generous and will test it for you, just sent me the base for ithaka
otherwise i could sell an ithaka to you, for a special price of course
Ok I understand.
one thing remains.
If you make it this way, the springomzer will sit very deep in the base to seal properly - similar to Tilly.
I tried this but had issues with leaking. The Ithaka Mouthpiece didn't close. The Ithaka base seems to be a little too narrow to let the mouthpiece got deep enough to seal the rebuildable housing.
i will check that again and report.
And Brem, I'm so generous too!!!
one thing remains.
If you make it this way, the springomzer will sit very deep in the base to seal properly - similar to Tilly.
I tried this but had issues with leaking. The Ithaka Mouthpiece didn't close. The Ithaka base seems to be a little too narrow to let the mouthpiece got deep enough to seal the rebuildable housing.
i will check that again and report.
And Brem, I'm so generous too!!!
i am so generous and will test it for you, just sent me the base for ithaka
otherwise i could sell an ithaka to you, for a special price of course
imeo,
its, as I said. The way you want to do it needs an additional change of the new ithaka base.
The rebuildable part of Tilly won't screw deep enough into the Ithaka Base to sit properly and seal the small collectorss tank. the upper unthreaded part of the base isn't deep enough.
Therefore you have to make the threading of the base like the base of tilly.
This should do.
But dont forget that the Mouthpiece of Ithaka closes against the small rim of the housing of the rebuildable!
Thats a major difference to Tilly, were the mouthpiece closes against the base itself.
This means that the upper unthreaded part of the new base has to be wide enough to give room for the mouthpiece to screw down to the rim of the housing of the rebuildable.
Did I made myself clear?
English isn't my mothers tongue
its, as I said. The way you want to do it needs an additional change of the new ithaka base.
The rebuildable part of Tilly won't screw deep enough into the Ithaka Base to sit properly and seal the small collectorss tank. the upper unthreaded part of the base isn't deep enough.
Therefore you have to make the threading of the base like the base of tilly.
This should do.
But dont forget that the Mouthpiece of Ithaka closes against the small rim of the housing of the rebuildable!
Thats a major difference to Tilly, were the mouthpiece closes against the base itself.
This means that the upper unthreaded part of the new base has to be wide enough to give room for the mouthpiece to screw down to the rim of the housing of the rebuildable.
Did I made myself clear?
English isn't my mothers tongue
In my opinion it seems better to simply adapt the center pole and let the rebuildable of tilly sit higher in the ithaka base.
this way you won't have any compatibility issues with older parts.
this way you won't have any compatibility issues with older parts.
Sure, go ahead gekka. That's one of mine too
If you wait a day or two, I'll do another one with the Springomizer in the line-up.
Oh, ok! Yes an image with the springomizer would be great!Sure, go ahead gekka. That's one of mine too
If you wait a day or two, I'll do another one with the Springomizer in the line-up.
i am so generous and will test it for you, just sent me the base for ithaka
otherwise i could sell an ithaka to you, for a special price of course
Both solutions are wonderful Brem. But I will stay in theory this time ahahahahahahaha
Tax, I finally found an Ithaka, opened the hole of its GGTS base and I tried springomizer Springomizer fits great, o-ring seals the CT and mouthpiece close ok. So in your experiments, did you open the hole of the base?
Yes. openig the hole in the base was the start of my experiment.
are you shure CT is sealed and Liquid contol also?
It may look like that but isn't
are you shure CT is sealed and Liquid contol also?
It may look like that but isn't
Make a test:
Mount the ithaka mouthpiece on to the springomizer and close liquid control. Then pull the O-ring of the Center pole some mm from its correct position. Then put this all into the GGTS base and screw as deep as possible ... carefully. The mouthpiece will get stuck sometime. Then screw it out of the Base and check where the O-ring sits now.
In my case the o-ring has a little bit room to the knurled end of the center pole. This means: it can't seal CT.
If you change the center pole by making the knurled end 1-2mm longer, the o-ring will sit deeper and everything should work fine. May be, you can also use a bigger o-ring ... but i'm not shure.
Mount the ithaka mouthpiece on to the springomizer and close liquid control. Then pull the O-ring of the Center pole some mm from its correct position. Then put this all into the GGTS base and screw as deep as possible ... carefully. The mouthpiece will get stuck sometime. Then screw it out of the Base and check where the O-ring sits now.
In my case the o-ring has a little bit room to the knurled end of the center pole. This means: it can't seal CT.
If you change the center pole by making the knurled end 1-2mm longer, the o-ring will sit deeper and everything should work fine. May be, you can also use a bigger o-ring ... but i'm not shure.
Sure buddy, you don't have to ask. If a picture is published in the web, it's free
i am so generous and will test it for you, just sent me the base for ithaka
otherwise i could sell an ithaka to you, for a special price of course
You owe me a keyboard. I dropped my coffee in it
Tax, I put springomizer inside the GGTS base and it fits ok. O-ring seals the new wider hole because the depth of Ithaka's GGTS base is the same as the depth of the Tilemahos base.
ps......I dont have an Ithaka mouthpiece, but only springomizer's mouthpiece. But Ithaka's mouthpiece is the same as Tilemahos but its deeper on its fat part, so one more reason to fit the springomizer.
Can you please do something for me? Can you put springomizer inside GGTS base WITHOUT the 5x2 o-ring and then WITH 5x2 o-ring? Do you feel resistance when o-ring is on? You have to feel it.
ps2..... The way you did your experiment is not exactly right because Ithaka's mouthpiece is deeper on its fat part and covers more height of springomizer's housing, so if you screw the combo of springomizer-mouthpiece inside the GGTS base, the first piece that will stop inside GGTS base will be the mouthpiece and not the springomizer. But if you first screw the springomizer inside GGTS base (as we always do) and after that screw Ithaka's mouthpiece, all will be normal.
Hi Imeo,
Yes, if you screw the springomizer into the Ithaka base until it stops it will seal CT.
And you can feel the resistance of the o-ring.
Thats correct.
But as you say yourself: the mouthpiece will be stopped by the base and the reason is a small rim in the base.
See the picture. This small rim in the base stops the mouthpiece before it can close the springomizer and that's why it leaks.
The solution is: remove this rim and everything works.
I don't have the tools to remove this rim. So I did solve it by letting the springomizer sit a little bit higher ... with a second O-ring. Thats what I meant when I said you should modify the center pole.
You can remove this small rim and everything will work as you wish.
And thats, what I did:
two O-rings to get springomizer higher in the base
Springomzer sits now as high as the original Ithaka rebuildable part. The mouthpiece will work.
Yes, if you screw the springomizer into the Ithaka base until it stops it will seal CT.
And you can feel the resistance of the o-ring.
Thats correct.
But as you say yourself: the mouthpiece will be stopped by the base and the reason is a small rim in the base.
See the picture. This small rim in the base stops the mouthpiece before it can close the springomizer and that's why it leaks.
The solution is: remove this rim and everything works.
I don't have the tools to remove this rim. So I did solve it by letting the springomizer sit a little bit higher ... with a second O-ring. Thats what I meant when I said you should modify the center pole.
You can remove this small rim and everything will work as you wish.
And thats, what I did:
two O-rings to get springomizer higher in the base
Springomzer sits now as high as the original Ithaka rebuildable part. The mouthpiece will work.
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