I ALWAYS test with dry burns for hotspots, putting juice on before you test the coil just tends to mask the problem either by hiding the hotspot problem or showing up variations where the coil is not as well lubricated (mostly depending on variations of distance from coil to wick at different points of the coil). This is also one reason I'm now a convert to the drill bit method, I can test the pure resistance of the coil without a wick attached and any fluctuations that may arise once the wick is in place you know are a result of a short, even if it fires right on a Provari which is not forgiving at all on bad wick/coils.
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I ALWAYS test with dry burns for hotspots, putting juice on before you test the coil just tends to mask the problem either by hiding the hotspot problem or showing up variations where the coil is not as well lubricated (mostly depending on variations of distance from coil to wick at different points of the coil). This is also one reason I'm now a convert to the drill bit method, I can test the pure resistance of the coil without a wick attached and any fluctuations that may arise once the wick is in place you know are a result of a short, even if it fires right on a Provari which is not forgiving at all on bad wick/coils.
I love the popping. When I first started using gennies I missed the old crackling of silica atties. Now that I'm better with my gennies the popping has been a nice reward
If you're getting good wicking don't worry about the hot top cap, if you're using a metal mouthpiece which is getting too hot swap it out for a plastic one, or just condition those lips
Mine were conditioned years ago due to nicking sizzling hot pieces of lamb from the grillI love the popping. When I first started using gennies I missed the old crackling of silica atties. Now that I'm better with my gennies the popping has been a nice reward
If you're getting good wicking don't worry about the hot top cap, if you're using a metal mouthpiece which is getting too hot swap it out for a plastic one, or just condition those lips
A new way of saying: "Shish Kebab!!!"
Oh yea love a good shish kebab.
I've been making shish kofte too lately with fresh mint mixed through it. To die for
I've been making shish kofte too lately with fresh mint mixed through it. To die for
Inspired by this thread and BJ43's posts I tried the #500 mesh and it does indeed wick very well and is great especially for longer wicks around or over 40mm long.
However I had a thought of what to do with all the #400 mesh I had. So I made a wick with silica wick only partway inside the mesh ie., only the portion where it is immersed in the tank leaving pure SS mesh at the business end, a semi-hybrid if you like. This wicks very well too and does not affect the taste.
Maybe BJ43 can do a test and see if this is a good method of getting long wicks to work as good as #500 mesh.
However I had a thought of what to do with all the #400 mesh I had. So I made a wick with silica wick only partway inside the mesh ie., only the portion where it is immersed in the tank leaving pure SS mesh at the business end, a semi-hybrid if you like. This wicks very well too and does not affect the taste.
Maybe BJ43 can do a test and see if this is a good method of getting long wicks to work as good as #500 mesh.
My first effort at making a SS 400 mesh wick has turned into a nightmare, sorta. I checked the coil to make sure it was heating evenly and ended up with 1mm paperclip hole in the center. The thing spits like drops of water in hot oil. Thought perhaps some of my liquids had moisture in them so tried fresh VG/PG and some different premixed flavor, same thing. I effort was to duplicate this tutorial on my Phoenix RBA and mine appears to be identical. Reinventing the Phoenix Rebuildable Atomizer « pinoyvaper
The thing wicks very well, perhaps too well so I boiled and dried it and tried one or two drops at a time on the coil, same thing. Very little vapor as most of the energy is going into the spitting.
Any suggestions.
Edit: I pinched the hole shut at the top but made no difference with juice in the cup. The coil is wound about as tight as I could and there doesn't appear to be loose coils on any part of the wick. It ended up being about a 2ohm coil and different voltage setting don't help until they are too low to heat the coil.
Anyone had a similar experience?
Errol
I checked the coil to make sure it was heating evenly and ended up with 1mm paperclip hole in the center. The thing spits like drops of water in hot oil. Thought perhaps some of my liquids had moisture in them so tried fresh VG/PG and some different premixed flavor, same thing. I effort was to duplicate this tutorial on my Phoenix RBA and mine appears to be identical. Reinventing the Phoenix Rebuildable Atomizer « pinoyvaperThe thing wicks very well, perhaps too well so I boiled and dried it and tried one or two drops at a time on the coil, same thing. Very little vapor as most of the energy is going into the spitting.
Any suggestions.
Edit: I pinched the hole shut at the top but made no difference with juice in the cup. The coil is wound about as tight as I could and there doesn't appear to be loose coils on any part of the wick. It ended up being about a 2ohm coil and different voltage setting don't help until they are too low to heat the coil.
Anyone had a similar experience?
Errol
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Did you try putting the top on and vaping?
Sounds like you have some hotspots going on. Remove juice. Fire until all the juice is used up. Then fire it and pay atte tion to the coils. If they are all glowing evenly then you may have small gaps between wire and mesh. Or your wick may be flooding. For flooding decrease the airflow into the tank if there is a fill hole put something in it. You can also roll the wick tighter which will help for flooding. Having said all that I do have 1 juice that is a spitter. But I have great vapor as well.
Sounds like you have some hotspots going on. Remove juice. Fire until all the juice is used up. Then fire it and pay atte tion to the coils. If they are all glowing evenly then you may have small gaps between wire and mesh. Or your wick may be flooding. For flooding decrease the airflow into the tank if there is a fill hole put something in it. You can also roll the wick tighter which will help for flooding. Having said all that I do have 1 juice that is a spitter. But I have great vapor as well.
My first effort at making a SS 400 mesh wick has turned into a nightmare, sorta.
The thing wicks very well, perhaps too well so I boiled and dried it and tried one or two drops at a time on the coil, same thing. Very little vapor as most of the energy is going into the spitting.
Any suggestions.
Edit: I pinched the hole shut at the top but made no difference with juice in the cup. The coil is wound about as tight as I could and there doesn't appear to be loose coils on any part of the wick. It ended up being about a 2ohm coil and different voltage setting don't help until they are too low to heat the coil.
Anyone had a similar experience?
Errol
Adjustable tank vent solved.
Thoughts: Needed to grind screw head down a little to fit inside top cap.
Spring from Pen would have been a little better if it was a slightly smaller gauge to ensure less "slop"
Would be good to have some sort of visible scale on the screw to get consistent adjustment
each time it has to be removed
Other than that is works great.
I turn it parallel to the ground and adjust screw until no leaking occurs, but fire it to make sure it is wicking well.
Thoughts: Needed to grind screw head down a little to fit inside top cap.
Spring from Pen would have been a little better if it was a slightly smaller gauge to ensure less "slop"
Would be good to have some sort of visible scale on the screw to get consistent adjustment
each time it has to be removed
Other than that is works great.
I turn it parallel to the ground and adjust screw until no leaking occurs, but fire it to make sure it is wicking well.
Fricken genius!
Adjustable tank vent solved.
Thoughts: Needed to grind screw head down a little to fit inside top cap.
Spring from Pen would have been a little better if it was a slightly smaller gauge to ensure less "slop"
Would be good to have some sort of visible scale on the screw to get consistent adjustment
each time it has to be removed
Other than that is works great.
I turn it parallel to the ground and adjust screw until no leaking occurs, but fire it to make sure it is wicking well.
i don't know if this has been posted before. maybe it is helpful for the europeans around.
here is a UK based shop for #500 25 Micron Super Fine - E-Cigarette Mesh:
[url=http://www.themeshcompany.com/acatalog/25-micron-super-fine-mesh.html]The Mesh Company (Warrington) Ltd #400 Super Fine E-Cig Filtration Mesh - 25 Micron[/URL]
here is a source, i found this for a reasonable price/quantity:
Kanthal A resistance heating wire 0.30mm / 0.012" / AWG 29 / highest quality ( 180975465048 ) the shop is also UK based ...
Kanthal A resistance heating wire 0.30mm / 0.012" / AWG 29 / highest quality | eBay
i think, the Kanthal AWG 29 almost performs like the AWG 28, but it gives about the same ohmage of about 1.2 ohm in 6/7 wraps. don't know if the mesh exactly meets the specs disussed in this thread - but so far this is significantly the best wicking i experienced
i thank you all, especially BJ43 and emonty
here is a UK based shop for #500 25 Micron Super Fine - E-Cigarette Mesh:
[url=http://www.themeshcompany.com/acatalog/25-micron-super-fine-mesh.html]The Mesh Company (Warrington) Ltd #400 Super Fine E-Cig Filtration Mesh - 25 Micron[/URL]
here is a source, i found this for a reasonable price/quantity:
Kanthal A resistance heating wire 0.30mm / 0.012" / AWG 29 / highest quality ( 180975465048 ) the shop is also UK based ...
Kanthal A resistance heating wire 0.30mm / 0.012" / AWG 29 / highest quality | eBay
i think, the Kanthal AWG 29 almost performs like the AWG 28, but it gives about the same ohmage of about 1.2 ohm in 6/7 wraps. don't know if the mesh exactly meets the specs disussed in this thread - but so far this is significantly the best wicking i experienced
i thank you all, especially BJ43 and emonty
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Damn Larry, either you Turkish and/or you know what you're doing over there, cheers
Adjustable tank vent solved.
Thoughts: Needed to grind screw head down a little to fit inside top cap.
Spring from Pen would have been a little better if it was a slightly smaller gauge to ensure less "slop"
Would be good to have some sort of visible scale on the screw to get consistent adjustment
each time it has to be removed
Other than that is works great.
I turn it parallel to the ground and adjust screw until no leaking occurs, but fire it to make sure it is wicking well.
Realized we don't need a visible scale on the screw for consistent or repeatable breather valve setting. The solution is simple. When you find the right balance between not leaking and good wicking, turn the screw in until it fully compresses the spring counting the turns as you go. My DID is perfect at one full turn out from fully compressed, thats far less airflow needed than I was expecting..
So when I remove the screw to refill I screw it in until it stops then one full turn anti clockwise and I'm set
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Sorry for the dumb question, but what exactly is the difference between 270, 325, 400, 500, 635 ss mesh, as far as what it does to my vape experience?
#200 mesh:
Holes Per Inch: 200
Wire Thickness: 0.028mm (28 micron)
Aperture: 0.099mm (99 micron)
#325 mesh:
Holes Per Inch: 325
Wire Thickness: 0.036mm (36 micron)
Aperture: 0.042mm (42 micron)
#400 mesh:
400 wires or holes per linear inch.
Wire Diameter: 0.025mm
Aperture: 0.039mm - this is the hole size and it is square
#500 mesh:
500 wires or holes per linear inch.
Wire Diameter: 0.025mm
Aperture: 0.026mm - this is the hole size and it is square
Open Area %: 26%
My new coil for my DID on around 180mm of #500 mesh, 6wrap 28Awg nichrome coil, with adjustable tank breather screw really shining with a wick that is a really snug fit in the wickhole, Grrrreat flavor, and vapor, runs great on my mechanical Paps from 4.2v right down to 2.9v, just take longer hits as the voltage drops, truly sweet.
I keep trying the 30awg Kanthal, but keep coming back to this 28awg nichrome for great stability and awesome flavor from multiple coils at low ohms on my mechanical mods. I have 28awg Kanthal on the way (higher Ohms/meter than the nichrome), but i can't see how it can get much better than this.
Yes, but what exactly is the difference as far as vape experience? Why should I pay more for #500 than #325 ?
If you have read this thread you will get the answer. #500 has the advantage over the lower one's of wicking better with a thick rolled solid wick. As the delivery of juice is better you can imagine the benefits.
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