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Of course 
, I assumed the better wicking led to better flavor. Is there something about #500 besides the fact that it wicks better that makes the flavor better?
, I assumed the better wicking led to better flavor. Is there something about #500 besides the fact that it wicks better that makes the flavor better?
Can't think of anything elseOf course
Damn Larry, either you Turkish and/or you know what you're doing over there, cheers
Haa just a foodie mate. Like to dig up legitimate recipes. Love Turkish food, gotta get over there at some stage for a munch out
Of course
Smoother surface with tighter weave, leads to less shorts/hotspots.
My new coil for my DID on around 180mm of #500 mesh, 6wrap 28Awg nichrome coil, with adjustable tank breather screw really shining with a wick that is a really snug fit in the wickhole, Grrrreat flavor, and vapor, runs great on my mechanical Paps from 4.2v right down to 2.9v, just take longer hits as the voltage drops, truly sweet.
I keep trying the 30awg Kanthal, but keep coming back to this 28awg nichrome for great stability and awesome flavor from multiple coils at low ohms on my mechanical mods. I have 28awg Kanthal on the way (higher Ohms/meter than the nichrome), but i can't see how it can get much better than this.
It's absolutely fantastic the thought and work you put into that rig. A real work of art. Great job!!!
Ok well I've had some more findings. Got my Did Gemini wicking like the old Line after some tedious fiddling. I've used the drill bit method with a 2.38mm drill piece so that the wick isn't touching the inner diameter of the 3mm wick hole on the Did, well at least barely. Maybe the dome shaped form of the Gemini is also contributing in the same way that the tall thin form of the Line seems to, but the Gemini sure wasn't wicking anywhere near the Line when I set it up the same way with a tight wick jammed into the wick hole. With the smaller wick which is rolled solid (75mm of #500 mesh pushed into the 2.38mm diameter of the pre-secured coil) with no significant adhesion to the wick hole, this Gemini is producing the goods. As BJ pointed out it really does hinder the capillary action. It's running at 10 watts in the video below. The filling screw is out. It doesn't wick as well with the filling screw in, but I might drill a small hole through the screw as they have with the G-Bell's (thanks again Northar) and see if I can get some portability out of it as I don't have the tools to achieve Studiovap's clever mod.
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I have a Mini DID Larry, with the same top end as the Gemini, I have basically the same setup as you show in the video, but it never cut the mustard with my ADV Royal Blend (it's ended up with Lime Spider from vapingmad) and was as you say "tedious" LOL, to get setup in satisfactory manner. The fill screw is I believe M2 and you would need a very fine cutting wheel (not to mention steady hand) to put a shelved slot in a thread that thin. You can only really get away with no leaks with the fill screw out if the wick is a snug fit in the wickhole. I may revisit the mini DID though as you've got my brain churning. Though the mini is just too small capacity for leaving the house with, I use my Paps in 18350 mode for a compact out and about vape, and then I have 3.5ml.
Just curious: I'm getting this #400 mesh from eBay 12"x12" Woven Wire Mesh Stainless Steel 400 Mesh Filtration Stainless Steel LH | eBay
It states that the "Open Area Percentage" is 27%, opening size is 0.03mm and wire diameter is 0.0305mm. This is also a twill weave.
I'm wondering how this will compare with the #500 (I don't have any at the moment) from the Mesh Co.
#500: "Open Area Percentage" is 26%, opening size is 0.026mm and wire diameter is 0.025mm
Mesh Co #400: "Open Area Percentage" is 36.8%, opening size is 0.039mm and wire diameter is 0.025mm
Any ideas or conjectures?
ETA: this does appear to be the same (?) as the eBay "maryhoffer" #400 mesh that I got earlier this year
It states that the "Open Area Percentage" is 27%, opening size is 0.03mm and wire diameter is 0.0305mm. This is also a twill weave.
I'm wondering how this will compare with the #500 (I don't have any at the moment) from the Mesh Co.
#500: "Open Area Percentage" is 26%, opening size is 0.026mm and wire diameter is 0.025mm
Mesh Co #400: "Open Area Percentage" is 36.8%, opening size is 0.039mm and wire diameter is 0.025mm
Any ideas or conjectures?
ETA: this does appear to be the same (?) as the eBay "maryhoffer" #400 mesh that I got earlier this year
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Just curious: I'm getting this #400 mesh from eBay 12"x12" Woven Wire Mesh Stainless Steel 400 Mesh Filtration Stainless Steel LH | eBay
It states that the "Open Area Percentage" is 27%, opening size is 0.03mm and wire diameter is 0.0305mm. This is also a twill weave.
I'm wondering how this will compare with the #500 (I don't have any at the moment) from the Mesh Co.
#500: "Open Area Percentage" is 26%, opening size is 0.026mm and wire diameter is 0.025mm
Mesh Co #400: "Open Area Percentage" is 36.8%, opening size is 0.039mm and wire diameter is 0.025mm
Any ideas or conjectures?
It should work. The larger diameter wire will reduce the density a little.
Yea I definitely wouldn't have the hands for the job. There's some mounted drills and vices at uni to drill a hole through the screw though. That's how I did the wick hole in the gbell. Not that it would of been hard by hand, but I've been known to muck up easier jobs. I've been using the same juice through this whole progression which is 50/50 PG/VG.
Keep us posted with the mini Studiovap
If you go back to the first few pages BJ43 does some pretty impressive experiments with various size SS mesh and shows quite graphically why 500 SS mesh has an advantage over the courser numbers.
Errol
I've followed this thread from the beginning - thanks to 'all of you' for 'educating' me. Finally got some 500 mesh and did a solid 'fat' wick for my Z-Atty-pro.
I used 100mm of 500 mesh rolled solid. It slips easily into the ZAP's wick hole w/o the insulator, not sloppy loose though. Didn't have trouble rolling it and when done, realized I probably could have done it with 120mm and had a denser wick. I folder the inner edge minimally (no more than a mm) and the outer edge maybe 10mm. I torched the mesh before rolling and oxidized again when rolled (torched/water quench & burned off w/ VG to complete it).
I wrapped a 4/5 Kanthal A1 32 coil. I didn't want to go with 30g 'cause I just wanted to make 1 change at a time w/ the 100mm fat wick compared to a Zen~ oem 15mm wick (yea, when I unrolled the original wick it was only 15mm).
That's the background of what I did - here's my question. The Ω's came in at 2.6 from the start and has been stable for a couple tanks of juice. But, I'm running at 5 volts w/ the 2.6Ω coil. Anything less just doesn't produce reasonable amount of vapor. With other 2.5Ω atty's and juice holders I usually vape at 4.0 - 4.2 volts, but with this setup I've had to crank up the volts.
It seems to be working well at 5 volts, I can double-triple vape back-to-back-to-back, not a dry hit. Hold the power button down for over 20 seconds and just watch the plumes come of the wick. No hot spots or glowing of the coil at all.
Do these 'fat' wicks act as a heat sink, leading to me increasing voltage to heat up the coil? Even though the coil's lit up nicely, not showing any sign of a short when initially tested - could I still be shorting or somehow leaking 'volts' into the wick (like I read a few pages back?).
Ok - before I make this post too long, I'll stop hear and see what 'ya all' have to say. Thanks again everyone for the info in this thread.
I used 100mm of 500 mesh rolled solid. It slips easily into the ZAP's wick hole w/o the insulator, not sloppy loose though. Didn't have trouble rolling it and when done, realized I probably could have done it with 120mm and had a denser wick. I folder the inner edge minimally (no more than a mm) and the outer edge maybe 10mm. I torched the mesh before rolling and oxidized again when rolled (torched/water quench & burned off w/ VG to complete it).
I wrapped a 4/5 Kanthal A1 32 coil. I didn't want to go with 30g 'cause I just wanted to make 1 change at a time w/ the 100mm fat wick compared to a Zen~ oem 15mm wick (yea, when I unrolled the original wick it was only 15mm).
That's the background of what I did - here's my question. The Ω's came in at 2.6 from the start and has been stable for a couple tanks of juice. But, I'm running at 5 volts w/ the 2.6Ω coil. Anything less just doesn't produce reasonable amount of vapor. With other 2.5Ω atty's and juice holders I usually vape at 4.0 - 4.2 volts, but with this setup I've had to crank up the volts.
It seems to be working well at 5 volts, I can double-triple vape back-to-back-to-back, not a dry hit. Hold the power button down for over 20 seconds and just watch the plumes come of the wick. No hot spots or glowing of the coil at all.
Do these 'fat' wicks act as a heat sink, leading to me increasing voltage to heat up the coil? Even though the coil's lit up nicely, not showing any sign of a short when initially tested - could I still be shorting or somehow leaking 'volts' into the wick (like I read a few pages back?).
Ok - before I make this post too long, I'll stop hear and see what 'ya all' have to say. Thanks again everyone for the info in this thread.
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Very simple, your new wick is much more efficient and keeps your coil wet and cooler, this requires more voltage to heat and keep the wire of the coil at optimum vaping temp.
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...s-all-about-wire-temp-read-3.html#post7632993
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Thanks BJ, for the answer. I feel better not having to think if something is 'wrong' when actually something is 'right'. And yikes! I read the 'other thread' you pointed me to. I didn't have to think about/recall stuff I learned 45 years ago in college - ya know like scientific and engineering type stuff, when I was smoking. This vapin' is getting a bit intellectual (he he).
Sorry y'all I'm probably asking questions that have been answered but reading hundreds of pages makes my head spin. Does #500 work well with dark, thick juices?
My ADv is a syrupy tobacco 70/30 VG/PG, so yes is the answer, plus after a few hits the juice gets thinned by the heat, and wicks even better. I have an adjustable tank breather screw though to aid reduction of vacuum lock in the tank. My coils do gunk up with the darker, thicker juice , but a quick gentle scrub with a toothbrush and sometimes a quick dry burn cleans them up a treat.
Gents I presume you keep your filling hole open to enhance wicking with this fats wicks , how can you handle leaking while you are out and about or you use another devices when you are out other than genesis devices
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