I see the price has been dropped. It's still jacked up for a 4x6 sheet.
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Need help from former MFS (MyFreedomSmokes) customers
Has any found a supplier or company that has tobacco e-juice like or very similar to MFS Turbosmog, Tall Paul, or Red Luck?
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I'm in UK so get my mesh from mesh co and it's here about 36hrs after hitting the buy button.. 
It's pretty jacked everywhere. Still, 7.00 for two+ wicks ain't all that bad.
No fair, Mev007......lol. 36 hours after placing an order I'm pacing the floor like an expectant father. Glad we have tile floors, or I'd have carpet costs to figure into my vaping "overhead"!!
Can anyone that has ordered from The Mesh Company lately verify that the free sheet is the same mesh # as the ordered sheet.
The way it reads on their web site is confusing
"We will ship a free standard 'super fine' sheet (this will be #200 -#300) for every #500 mesh sheet purchased"
The way it reads on their web site is confusing
"We will ship a free standard 'super fine' sheet (this will be #200 -#300) for every #500 mesh sheet purchased"
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I read about people not oxidizing their wicks and just dry burning their coils and decided to try it with my Phoenix RBA, it worked fantastically! Set up after getting my 325 mesh that came with my DuD rolled was about 10 minutes...
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/rebuildable-atomizer-systems/347061-cant-easy.html
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/rebuildable-atomizer-systems/347061-cant-easy.html
Tobarger......my free sheets were not the same mesh size as what I ordered. From what I understand, if they do happen to have some extra of what you ordered, they will throw it in, but if not, they add a lower count sheet. Two orders so far and I'm guessing I got 270 or 325.... hard to tell with my eyes currently...... have interstitial keratitis (sp?) and makes it very difficult for me to tell fine differences, sort of like having a gauzy film over my eyes. Or, I could just be getting old and can't see worth beans anymore.....lol. Sorry I could not be of more help to you.
I do agree with you about the wording on the site -- it is a little confusing, but they always do throw in an extra sheet of something that could be useful. First order I got two extras... that was very nice. I really appreciate their generosity.
Go Bucks...... (former Toledoan)
I do agree with you about the wording on the site -- it is a little confusing, but they always do throw in an extra sheet of something that could be useful. First order I got two extras... that was very nice. I really appreciate their generosity.
Go Bucks...... (former Toledoan)
Thanks, I thought so
They changed the wording just after I placed an order with them about 2 months ago
I thought I was going to get 2 sheets of #500
I got one sheet of #500 and one sheet of I don't know what
Not as good of a deal as I thought
Go Browns
They changed the wording just after I placed an order with them about 2 months ago
I thought I was going to get 2 sheets of #500
I got one sheet of #500 and one sheet of I don't know what
Not as good of a deal as I thought
Go Browns
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I've got to be missing something here, rolling the wicks tight as could be and solid as I can is not an issue but as soon as i stop it just unrolls making it no longer solid, how do you guys get the wicks to stay solid after you finish rolling them?
Tobarger, in the past you would have gotten 2+ sheets of #500, but their demand is up so it is 1 #500 and 1 #200, which they think we have a use for 'very popular throughout continental Europe.' ???
Bezgo if it unravels after you roll, just keep rolling in the same direction until it tightens. Make sure you don't accidentally turn the wick around and roll it in the other direction as that will loosen it. I put a little bit of e-liquid on the mesh when I roll to help keep it stuck together. You'll get the hang of it, it just takes a little practice
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Oh by the way...
@ Studiovap - You were right about the G-Bell in that I should of left the hole bigger after drilling it out and then refilling with JB-Weld. With the drill bit method, I can set up coils so that it really keeps the wick sturdy and in place. I just re-drilled it to 3mm to use with a 2.5mm wick and the capillary action is optimal. No need for another vid, you guys know how I like my atties wicking by now.
@BJ43 - Just wanted to thank you again for all of your tests, knowledge and help. Apart from exposing me (and the rest of the community) to finer mesh, your comments about adhesion hindering capillary action due to the wick touching the inner diameter of the wick hole have really taken my setups to the next level. As I mentioned the first time I messaged you, back before you started this thread, I was very concerned about the dangers of breathing in the fumes of red hot resistance wire. Thanks to your efforts, I'm now getting proper capillary action on all of my devices and the odd inhalation of red hot coils is a thing of the past.
@ Studiovap - You were right about the G-Bell in that I should of left the hole bigger after drilling it out and then refilling with JB-Weld. With the drill bit method, I can set up coils so that it really keeps the wick sturdy and in place. I just re-drilled it to 3mm to use with a 2.5mm wick and the capillary action is optimal. No need for another vid, you guys know how I like my atties wicking by now.
@BJ43 - Just wanted to thank you again for all of your tests, knowledge and help. Apart from exposing me (and the rest of the community) to finer mesh, your comments about adhesion hindering capillary action due to the wick touching the inner diameter of the wick hole have really taken my setups to the next level. As I mentioned the first time I messaged you, back before you started this thread, I was very concerned about the dangers of breathing in the fumes of red hot resistance wire. Thanks to your efforts, I'm now getting proper capillary action on all of my devices and the odd inhalation of red hot coils is a thing of the past.
BJ - Only just started posting ECF today, but been reading for a few months - been reading and keeping up with this thread and haven't skipped a single post - would just like to say a huge thanks to you for all the great tips and to all the other contributors - just wonderful stuff!
Still not quite got it all down in practice, but have my 'CHID' working fairly well ATM on #500 and 32g Kanthal - need some more practice though, and have some 29g Kanthal A1 on the way as well - being an Englandian, I get the stuff from Germany quite quickly (2 days last time) and the SS mesh from the Mesh co. in half that time (G), so will have plenty to play with.
Being a science-ey type myself (as well as an incorrigible tinkerer and problem solver) I understand the issue of adhesion coming into play with the thicker top-caps, but there's something else that may be at play here that's come to mind - heat sinking!
The thicker top caps, esp. coupled with the largely brass construction of some of these RBAs *must* be pulling a fair old amount of power (as heat) from our coils, and surely that is going to reduce vapour production also, as well as delay the onset of it and of course the overall efficiency of our RBAs, not to mention slow down the wicking as that too seems to be partly heat driven in these cases? - I know my modified Smoktech carto tank based RBA wicked much faster with a 1.5-1.7mm wick (as I made it originally), than my CHID did with 3.5mm wick after I'd counter bored the top cap from below to an equivalent thickness and it seemed to me to be because the plastic tank based RBA had a lot less thermal mass to sink into?
Of course I could be totally off here and even if not, there are no doubt other factors at play, but nevertheless, I figured it worth thinking about and mentioning.
The above has also lead me to wondering about an RBA with glass or ceramic wick/mounting plate also for similar 'efficiency'/power saving reasons...
Later, and thanks once again for a most educational thread.
Be Well!
DV (There Can Be Only One... Until it is Copied... )
Still not quite got it all down in practice, but have my 'CHID' working fairly well ATM on #500 and 32g Kanthal - need some more practice though, and have some 29g Kanthal A1 on the way as well - being an Englandian, I get the stuff from Germany quite quickly (2 days last time) and the SS mesh from the Mesh co. in half that time (G), so will have plenty to play with.
Being a science-ey type myself (as well as an incorrigible tinkerer and problem solver) I understand the issue of adhesion coming into play with the thicker top-caps, but there's something else that may be at play here that's come to mind - heat sinking!
The thicker top caps, esp. coupled with the largely brass construction of some of these RBAs *must* be pulling a fair old amount of power (as heat) from our coils, and surely that is going to reduce vapour production also, as well as delay the onset of it and of course the overall efficiency of our RBAs, not to mention slow down the wicking as that too seems to be partly heat driven in these cases? - I know my modified Smoktech carto tank based RBA wicked much faster with a 1.5-1.7mm wick (as I made it originally), than my CHID did with 3.5mm wick after I'd counter bored the top cap from below to an equivalent thickness and it seemed to me to be because the plastic tank based RBA had a lot less thermal mass to sink into?
Of course I could be totally off here and even if not, there are no doubt other factors at play, but nevertheless, I figured it worth thinking about and mentioning.
The above has also lead me to wondering about an RBA with glass or ceramic wick/mounting plate also for similar 'efficiency'/power saving reasons...
Later, and thanks once again for a most educational thread.
Be Well!
DV (There Can Be Only One... Until it is Copied... )
If you torch the unwrapped mesh before you roll it will stiffen it and not unroll on you.
definitely not, I've order quite a few times and never get the same quality for the free sample, my last order was for #500 and came with a free sheet of #200
Okay, still having some issues here(a lot). I've gone through almost $20 in #500 mesh and have not gotten 1 good wick out of it, just frustration.
I already went through the #400 I had (no success there either), The only good wick I've made was with the cheap stuff that came with the DUD which btw was coarse and rough unlike the silky smooth #400 & #500 (ruined that 1 good wick when I got the #500 + clear tank to install).
I've tried torching it before and not torching it before, ive tried boiling it( i like this as an extra step regardless, ty for the tip). The results i get go against what I've learned in this thread (325 wicking best for me [or w/e the cheap stuff is that comes with the DUD], with #400 Ǵ not wicking any juice at all)
All attempts to roll a solid wick have left my thumbs without much feeling, tried rolling on a desk (helps), tried rolling wet (with pg or water) as well as dry, all in all i keep getting the same results. Wicks that dont wick and dry harsh hits. If they define insanity as doing the same things over and over again expecting different results, then that is where I'm headed.
I've come to the conclusion I must be doing something wrong, this is a 150+page thread full of people posting results that back up what is said in the beginning and ive not been able to replicate any of it.
I think part of my issue is the fact that my wicks unroll themselves as soon as i stop rolling them, some catch by the frayed edges but thats a lotto at best, are there any up to date videos of people making SOLID #500 wicks? All I've seen is hollow wicks in videos. Since ive had it setup great once (was bed worthy, did not leak nor dry hit with the fill screw in and chain vaped....all with the cheapo mesh rolled tight enough to leave a gap in the wick hole) I've not had a satisfying vape.
PS. Running out of mesh to try with
I already went through the #400 I had (no success there either), The only good wick I've made was with the cheap stuff that came with the DUD which btw was coarse and rough unlike the silky smooth #400 & #500 (ruined that 1 good wick when I got the #500 + clear tank to install).
I've tried torching it before and not torching it before, ive tried boiling it( i like this as an extra step regardless, ty for the tip). The results i get go against what I've learned in this thread (325 wicking best for me [or w/e the cheap stuff is that comes with the DUD], with #400 Ǵ not wicking any juice at all)
All attempts to roll a solid wick have left my thumbs without much feeling, tried rolling on a desk (helps), tried rolling wet (with pg or water) as well as dry, all in all i keep getting the same results. Wicks that dont wick and dry harsh hits. If they define insanity as doing the same things over and over again expecting different results, then that is where I'm headed.
I've come to the conclusion I must be doing something wrong, this is a 150+page thread full of people posting results that back up what is said in the beginning and ive not been able to replicate any of it.
I think part of my issue is the fact that my wicks unroll themselves as soon as i stop rolling them, some catch by the frayed edges but thats a lotto at best, are there any up to date videos of people making SOLID #500 wicks? All I've seen is hollow wicks in videos. Since ive had it setup great once (was bed worthy, did not leak nor dry hit with the fill screw in and chain vaped....all with the cheapo mesh rolled tight enough to leave a gap in the wick hole) I've not had a satisfying vape.
PS. Running out of mesh to try with
@Bezgo59879...
The #500 is very silky and doesn't seem to grip to itself as easily as the lower grade stuff, i've found once you've got it rolled loosely there's then a knack to getting it rolled tight. I usually start from the center and can feel it grab and hol then keep rolling working towards the edges. Then once done like that I roll more on a work surface using a cork back coaster which works great and get's it even tighter.
Also found because I make the wick a snug fit too I need to leave the fill screw out or there's no airflow if I don't and it doesn't wick as good.
Hope any of that helps and you get sorted.
The #500 is very silky and doesn't seem to grip to itself as easily as the lower grade stuff, i've found once you've got it rolled loosely there's then a knack to getting it rolled tight. I usually start from the center and can feel it grab and hol then keep rolling working towards the edges. Then once done like that I roll more on a work surface using a cork back coaster which works great and get's it even tighter.
Also found because I make the wick a snug fit too I need to leave the fill screw out or there's no airflow if I don't and it doesn't wick as good.
Hope any of that helps and you get sorted.
Bezgo I'll try to make a video tonight if I can get the time. I'll post it here
TY, ive been working them from the middle to the edges with each roll, ill try working on the center more first, great idea on the coaster as my thumbs cant take much more. I hope to get a tight wick with a smaller OD than my wick ID so i can leave the fill screw in again but at this point i just want the thing to work.
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