#500 SS Mesh

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Turbo

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Ok, I've skimmed this thread and will try it when I get to ordering mesh again. Good insights as always 'b'. The fact 500 produces volumes of vapor goes along w/ what 'raidy' said initially as 'asdaq' pointed out, but I understand this isn't the principle behind your experiment. I get what you're saying.

I'm wondering how I'll get a 70mm starting width in the small Orion hole but I'll give it a go someday. Since the capillary action is more efficient, does the tank empty quicker? Maybe not judging by the short pulls 'emonty' is getting!
 

emonty

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Ok, I've skimmed this thread and will try it when I get to ordering mesh again. Good insights as always 'b'. The fact 500 produces volumes of vapor goes along w/ what 'raidy' said initially as 'asdaq' pointed out, but I understand this isn't the principle behind your experiment. I get what you're saying.

I'm wondering how I'll get a 70mm starting width in the small Orion hole but I'll give it a go someday. Since the capillary action is more efficient, does the tank empty quicker? Maybe not judging by the short pulls 'emonty' is getting!

Turbo,
no need for 70 mm in the Orion, more like 60 mm. Just roll it tight and if it ain't fit, cut off a little piece to make it fit.
The tank does not empty quicker btw
It is amazing!!!
 

barqs

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hey emonty did you do anything to the wick hole in your cobra as a fat wick inthalittle screw hole I just cant see? I got my DID working fine evn on a vmax but on the cobra you have to roll it so tight and long (5ml tank) I always get the dratty taste. Now when I soak wick with juice from bottle it vapes like I want to but because of poor wicking it goes to draddy quite quickly!

Tips for wick in the Cobra 5ml would be great!!

Short fat #400 wick, 28 AWG a 1 ohm coil at 4 volts.

 

emonty

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hey emonty did you do anything to the wick hole in your cobra as a fat wick inthalittle screw hole I just cant see? I got my DID working fine evn on a vmax but on the cobra you have to roll it so tight and long (5ml tank) I always get the dratty taste. Now when I soak wick with juice from bottle it vapes like I want to but because of poor wicking it goes to draddy quite quickly!

Tips for wick in the Cobra 5ml would be great!!

The wick hole is 2,5 mm, I managed to get a wick of 50 mm in there, roll it tight!
btw: I only have the 3 ml Cobra version, but that does not matter. In the setup you see I made a short wick just to try it out. I will make a new one now that I have the #500, so it should wick even better
 

rondasherrill

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Okay since there is alot of capillary action speak in this thread, I will ask it here... Why is it that on Genny's with an insulated wick hole, I can roll a wick and have it kicking in 5 minutes, but on Genny's where the wick is in direct contact with the metal surface of the body, it just doesn't seem to want to wick, like at all.

I have an Atom Bomb. I roll a nice tight well seasoned wick(Jack Frost Method), same as my other RBA's, but no matter what I have to raise it above horizontal and give it a dry puff to get the coil wet.

I have some 500 Mesh coming to me, but I'm *this* close to having my husband drill the wick hole out a tiny bit to put a flanged spacer in, as I'm almost certain the uninsulated hole is the source of my heartache with it.
 

emonty

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Okay since there is alot of capillary action speak in this thread, I will ask it here... Why is it that on Genny's with an insulated wick hole, I can roll a wick and have it kicking in 5 minutes, but on Genny's where the wick is in direct contact with the metal surface of the body, it just doesn't seem to want to wick, like at all.

I have an Atom Bomb. I roll a nice tight well seasoned wick(Jack Frost Method), same as my other RBA's, but no matter what I have to raise it above horizontal and give it a dry puff to get the coil wet.

I have some 500 Mesh coming to me, but I'm *this* close to having my husband drill the wick hole out a tiny bit to put a flanged spacer in, as I'm almost certain the uninsulated hole is the source of my heartache with it.

I don't know the Atom bomb, but I have gennies without insulator: The Orion, the Cobra, Hellfire's and they wick 100%
The insulator prevents any shorts, working without insulator it has to be 100% oxidized, so in your case there must be a short somewhere, even if it is a really small one it will prevent it to fire 100%.
 

rondasherrill

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I don't know the Atom bomb, but I have gennies without insulator: The Orion, the Cobra, Hellfire's and they wick 100%
The insulator prevents any shorts, working without insulator it has to be 100% oxidized, so in your case there must be a short somewhere, even if it is a really small one it will prevent it to fire 100%.

I've been dealing with shorts too. Had to basically relearn oxidizing wicks to get over that problem... It seems like it stops wicking right at the base of the chamber... I can see that it wicks enough to keep the very bottom coil from glowing, but the rest of the coils glow nice and bright.

This is the Atom Bomb. Same guy that made the DefCon I believe... http://www.sandsmods.com/760_427_csupload_49118411.jpg?u=1199314785
 

barqs

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thanks man I read this entire thread and watched all the videos and I love scientific emperical data thats logical in explaination and was sold. I noticed The Mesh Company is on ebay with #500 same price as site and cheaper shipping so bought 5 A4 sheets! As I am having no love with the Cobra right now (bought 2 and was thinking of giving one up for sale). Also my did was working fine and seems to have just stopped producing vapour. So, this being my 1st attempt at RBA I was getting quite put off by it. So after this thread I have found new thoughts and a determination to continue with it.

By the way the last wick with the cobra was tight as hell and I thought that was the problem now I'm thinking I used 325 instead of 400 as it wasn't marked and I used what I had.

I even tried a cotton wick in the center which I burnt!! LOL

Still can't figure out why the vapour in the DID died off but hey will try again with mesh I know is #400 until the #500 comes in!

So many thanks to yourself, bj43 and others who contibuted to this thread and I will push forward and put these tips to the test!

Oh I suck at rolling, my digits arent very good at smaller applications!!

Thanks To ALL You for the new tips and tricks! I will give them a whirl tomorrow night when I have time and let you know!



The wick hole is 2,5 mm, I managed to get a wick of 50 mm in there, roll it tight!
btw: I only have the 3 ml Cobra version, but that does not matter. In the setup you see I made a short wick just to try it out. I will make a new one now that I have the #500, so it should wick even better
 
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studiovap

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studiovap: Are we talking goodbye to the capillary action, is it not nessasary with so much absorbent matter?

Don't understand your question, absorbance is a result of capillary action. Leaving a wick with loose roll at the bottom reduces the capillary action and will absorb less. More mesh with more holes pressed tight together wicks (absorbs) better than a loosely rolled wick where the holes are farther apart and the molecules have a further distance to travel. All my SS wicks fit tight in the hole and I have never experienced any reduction in the wicking as most of the capillary action is internal in the wick. On all my new wicks with #500 I am eliminating the center hole. The #500 has such excellent capillary action that the volcanic action of a center hole is not necessary. IMO

Thankyou Bj43 for the clarification, I had always thought of capillary action in simple tube terms, I had never realy thought of absorption in porus matter as being a mass of tiny capillaries all doing their bit. It helps a lot to have my ignorance exposed to reach a new level of understanding. I have learnt a lot from your posts even before I became a member on ECF, especially with your work on the"Cheap Lines".
Thanks again.
 
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emonty

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I got my order from the Mesh Company. They didn't send any extra mesh with my order. But I am happy with what I ordered.

I had called them and Chris told me that they include extra's if they have it available, scraps or odd pieces....sometimes they are out and my guess is that they are out of that as they have many orders currently :)
 

Cyrus Vap

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I'll say this in here as I've said it elsewhere

Once my coil/wick is set up, I fill the tank, hold the unit vertical, and fire the Provari for 15 second pulses at my desired wattage. If I see any red anywhere, that set up is a fail. If its truly wicking, and you have enough mesh/wick density for your desired wattage, nothing should glow. In fact you should be getting spatters of scalding hot juice all over your hand because the juice just won't stop flying to your coil :)

I think what happens when people (me) have used a wide open center hole and been impressed is basically, by tipping the PV and basically hurling their juice at the coil, they've masked coils that were causing shorts, seeing too much air, or both, hence 'improving flavor' and 'wicking'

As often happens, its not that people are entirely full of sh.. (well most of them are, by definition, the majority is always wrong :) ) but they jump to inappropriate conclusions based on positive results with a poorly understood method

The hardest part of setting these puppies up for me is to get a nice tight coil that's as tight as possible without shorting anything out. That usually requires a bit of "molding" the top and bottom runs to the posts so as to prevent too much coil dangling in the air. Once that's sorted, the 15 second vertical burst gauntlet is navigated successfully everytime :)
 

MikeE3

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Do you feel the 500 mesh will have any effect on a gen. atty that is fed by a tank on the top,like the Sturm g-tank or the g-tank US?

I'm w/ ya on this question. I moved from 400 to 325 mesh in a GTUS. Seems to work better regardless the pg/vg ratio.
 

BJ43

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I'm w/ ya on this question. I moved from 400 to 325 mesh in a GTUS. Seems to work better regardless the pg/vg ratio.
I have always said that with an overhead tank, it is not wicking (capillary action), you are using gravitational flow, in other word a porous pipe. With gravitational flow, bigger holes in the mesh allows more flow and also more leaking. A GTUS without the insert works great with 500 but it is a completely different principal than if the juice has to go up against gravity.
 

BJ43

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Thankyou Bj43 for the clarification, I had always thought of capillary action in simple tube terms, I had never realy thought of absorption in porus matter as being a mass of tiny capillaries all doing their bit. It helps a lot to have my ignorance exposed to reach a new level of understanding. I have learnt a lot from your posts even before I became a member on ECF, especially with your work on the"Cheap Lines".
Thanks again.

Here is capillary action in a brick, this is the principle we use.

220px-Capillary_Action-1.jpg
 

BJ43

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Another mis concept, inserts help by isolating the wick. The true fact is no isolation is needed for the wick going thru a metal hole if it is the common (-). If the SS wick is properly oxidated under the coil, the coil is completely isolated from the wick and no current can flow from the coil to the wick. I never oxidize the whole wick just the part under the coil.
 
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