I went with 70 mm. It was too skinny. I'm going to try 100 mm. I'm using the 400 until the 500 gets here.
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Jimi, cool!! I made a 70 mm wick in a Zen TI which has a 3.5 mm hole, it is very tight, but yours must be even tighter!
Wow Dude, that must be some hot 5h!7. Would you have actually take a toke of that mod and Viva at those settings?
Are you still oxidizing the mesh before you roll it? That could increase the diameter a little. I am going to do that and test which wicks faster. Oxidizing mesh before rolling, oxidizing the entire wick after rolling, and a wick with just the end under the coil oxidized. Will make three new 70mm 500 wicks and lab test.
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Actually it got that hot because there was no air from drawing cooling it. I did a 17 sec static burn to show in the video that the wick could supply the coil continuous juice.. When you draw it cools the wick/coil.
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yes I did oxidize the whole wick. Great!!! I will await the results and choose the best one for my new setup I was about to make!
so in each of these cases if I am using 32 g wire, how many wraps would you recommend?
dunno, I only use 28 and 30, but start with 5 wraps, measure with your ohm meter and see what you end up with. It all depends on what you want, Low ohm, High ohm....Also it depends on what device you will use it. Some of my setups are mechanical, on the Provari you need a minimum of 1 ohm and with that you can only get max around 3.5 amps....sorry can't make it easier
I used 70mm and rolled it so tight there was still plenty of room to breath without removing a screw unlike the cobra!! Next time 80mm!! With 70mm it vapes like a smoke stack!!
Each inch of 32g A1 is 1.1 ohms, measure how many ohms you want and wrap that amount.
My mistake. Was it 3.5mm? Anyway I did get my 100mm wick working. Tighter than a mouses ear! I oxidized before I rolled. and after. This wick must hold 1.5 ml of juice! LOL
Cut 70mm by 2.25 in rectangle of 500 mesh. Oxidizes one rectangle before rolling, the second I oxidized the whole wick after rolling, and the third I oxidized only the coil as I usually do. When I put them in water they all wicked so fast that I couldn't record it and on the dark oxidized wicks it was hard to see the rising water. I am waiting for them to dry out. After they are dry I will put a little cotton on top of each and see which gets wet first. Tomorrow I will get some more kerosine and do a burn test with the three at the same time to see if one gives a bigger flame. A true test of which wicks better.
Some dye that would show up under ultraviolet light. I was thinking of rubbing talcum powder on the outside of each wick to see as it gets wet.
bj,
love, love love that you are doing this for all of us. Thanks a ton! great stuff.
curious if you should boil or oxidize the wick just to clean off whatever might be on there that we might not want.
also assuming with the #500 you would not want to tip up your device as has been done on most in the past? Would you over wick at that point, or does it not matter?
love, love love that you are doing this for all of us. Thanks a ton! great stuff.
curious if you should boil or oxidize the wick just to clean off whatever might be on there that we might not want.
also assuming with the #500 you would not want to tip up your device as has been done on most in the past? Would you over wick at that point, or does it not matter?
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Tipping doesn't seem to effect anything, especially with no center hole, the wick fills up to as much as it can absorb and even upside down no drip, cohesion, adhesion, and surface tension keeps all the juice in the wick.
Boiling is always good.
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