BJ, I have just been using it for a couple of weeks, but as it is so thick, I reckon it will last longer the the thinner Gage wire
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no and if that top coil glows, as it is so strong it is easy to adjust without popping. I break my coils in at low wattage, tweak them until all perfect then fire full blown. I use some nasty thick crappy tasting liquid to build up a nice layer and good to go!
I've been running the 28Awg also for quite some time now and the combo of it with the SS-500 Mesh is pretty dang good stuff. Got it set up on my Z-Atty and both of my Cobra's 3ml & 5ML Genesis units. It's the best set up yet for a Genesis Atty. Gunk does build up pretty quickly on this set up too.
BJ, Any results yet on that test ?
Edit: I see it BJ, thank's for doing that, I was wondering if one of the 3 wicks would actually hold more juice in it and though the one that was only oxidized on the top would hold juice better myself.
BJ, Any results yet on that test ?
Edit: I see it BJ, thank's for doing that, I was wondering if one of the 3 wicks would actually hold more juice in it and though the one that was only oxidized on the top would hold juice better myself.
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I agree that the one only oxidized on top should hold more juice, as common sense tells me that oxidizing takes up some space. I will continue using just the top oxidized as it works for me. Glad to hear your good results with the 500 as I respect your vast knowledge in the vaping community.
Actually, when you consider this for awhile.. I would presume the build-up/oxidation/mineral-content stuff would help to close-down the holes in a lower mesh - say 400 - to closer to 500, (if you oxidize the whole, entire wick). I might be wrong there, but I ain't about to go buy a microscope and measuring devices to determine Absolute Truth.
Further, since the point to the quench is partially mineral-deposit.. I'd wager there is a faster, easier way to heat and quench - leaving us with a proper amount of deposits on surfaces and between interstices. Saltwater comes to mind, I don't know what all else - let alone who as attempted what.
I also assumed that the oxidized before rolling wick should wick faster because of the reason you stated and in my test it did win in the consumption of the kerosine over the other two by 5 sec, but this is a gross test, I can't guarantee each wick is compressed with my fingers exactly the same. Also I haven't done a comparison between a wick rolled on the bias and one on the square, have a feeling since on the bias the square hole are pressed into elongated diamond shape and smaller, it may wick better.
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These are gross tests, there are so many other factors working on the SS wick. thermo dynamics, expansion, ambient temp, barometric pressure, back pressure to name a few.
anyone have a good way to roll these so that they are uniform with little or no hole?
keep rolling between your fingers, great exercise ;-) until they are tighter then tight, then roll even more lol
that is what I was doing. I still see a small hole in each side and both are a little uneven. I am trying my first one with #400 for one of my cobras. The size you gave seems good.
Ob, what also helps when you have it very tight is to put the wick on a flat surface and roll and press. A tiny hole inside remains, but for me it works stellar. Start of the first roll already as tight as possible!
Last lab test today, drilled another hole in one of my kerosine test burners so I could install a U wick. Neither a 500 or 400 U wick would maintain a good flame, just confirmed tests I did many months back where I concluded that a U wick was only 30% as efficient as a straight vertical genesis wick. Very unsteady flame when I light it, keeps going from medium to small, then half the medium size then almost out and then a little spurt and it goes out. That's why I've never seen a U wick on a candle. lol
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Ummmm. TWSS? I know it does not work totally, but could not help it.
bj, thanks for the continued testing!
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