#500 SS Mesh

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mwa102464

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Something I've been doing recently is cleaning mu mesh/coil every time my tank is empty, and getting a much cleaner and more flavorful vape each tank I vape. Once empty I simply go to very low voltage like 3v and pulse on/off and leave on for a bit burning the build up of gunk off the mesh/coil. Then once all is off to the eye I go to the sink and fire up the coil again till glowing then let off and turn upside down so no water gets in my tank and quench under really Hot water. This cleans all the charred and burnt leftovers off the mesh and coil and gets it clean, then I just dry off with paper towel and fill the tank again.

I noticed I was losing flavor after a while with all the gunk buildup plus I didn't really want to be vaping the gunk, this has improved my vaping experiance drastically each time I refill my tank. Some may disagree with me hear and I really don't care to much but if your not doing this and cleaning your mesh/coil like this after each tank full, TRY IT ;) it absolutely works.
 
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studiovap

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Ok,my 32 & 30g Kanthal is still not here, but my last rejuvenated coil was looks very sad and flavor was lacking, so I pulled out the nichrome 28 I bought at the local electronics shop (was the only res wire they stock) and set about making a coil for my new 110mm #500 mesh wick, 10wraps, steady 1.5Ohms, wrapped the coil around a drill bit then inserted drill bit into DID tightened connectors slid in juiced up #500 wick, and Bob's you mother's brother, 8 watts on the ZMAX and a great vape. This is not my ideal set-up (still running on so who knows) but until my kanthal arrives IT WORKS :banana:


DID 008.jpgDID 003.jpgDID 005.jpg
 
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studiovap

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Studiovap, I've done quite a few of those there monster coils, I've done it with even thicker wire to and up to 15 coils , just total monsters :)

Good to hear mwa,was pretty sure I wasn't about to explode my ZMAX, but reassuring never the less, I'm up to 8.5 watts now which should be 3.57v and 2.38A, ZMAX goes over 4A so should be safe.
 

hubblecraft83

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I read this whole thread and got my DID wicking like a boss. Thanks everyone!

I wasn't happy with the commonly filmed coil technique. If anyone new to this is having trouble with shorts and hot spots give this a try.


Hubble's Technique
*Make and oxidize a tight dense wick per thread technique. Don't go overboard with oxidizing, you will do more later.
*insert wick into dry tank to check size and trim bottom of wick at an angle to help wicking.
*Eye where you want your coil to go on your wick. I wet a little piece of paper the length and position of my future coil to the wick.
*Take your wick out of the tank, tightly & evenly coil your wire how you want it. Leave both tails on the same side when finished.
*Trim tails to about a half inch.
*Hold tails in needle nose pliers close to wick.
*Torch wick and coils to red and quench 2-3 times.
*Put down pliers and drip juice all over coils. Light to flame. Do this 2-3 times. Don't quench. (hold bottom of wick with pliers)
*Put wick back into tank
*Screw in top positive lead first making sure coils and wick touch nothing.
*With fingers or pliers (I used pliers), GENTLY pull bottom lead towards you to pull all the coils close to the wick.
*While holding wire with gentle tension, pull bottom lead under negative screw and screw down.

This tech breaks in your coil and wick before it even touches a battery. It also "trains" your coil to stay a tight coil and will not expand away from your wick ever again. Zero hotspots and zero shorts. Enjoy and I hope this helps that guy about to throw a Genesis out the window :)
 
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barqs

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I would love to see you make a how to vid of this! Really nice work I may give this a try!!

I read this whole thread and got my did working. Thanks!

I tweaked the technique a little. If anyone new to this is having trouble with shorts and hot spots give this a try.



*Make and oxidize tight dense wick per thread technique. Don't go overboard with oxidizing, you will do more later.
*insert wick and trim any excess.
*Eye where you want your coil to go on your wick. I wet a little piece of paper the length and position of my future coil to the wick.
*Take your wick out of tank, tightly & evenly coil your wire how you want it. Leave both tails on the same side when finished.
*Trim tails to about a half inch.
*Hold tails in needle nose pliers close to wick.
*Torch wick and coils to red and quench 2-3 times.
*Put down pliers and drip juice all over coils. Light to flame. Do this 2-3 times. Don't quench. (hold bottom of wick with pliers)
*Put wick back into tank
*Screw in top positive lead first making sure coils and wick touch nothing.
*With fingers or pliers (I used pliers), Gently pull bottom lead toward you to pull all the coils close to the wick.
*While holding wire with gentle force, pull bottom lead under negative screw and screw down.

This tech breaks in your coil and wick before it even touches a battery. It also "trains" your coil to stay a tight coil and will not expand away from your wick ever again. Zero hotspots and zero shorts. Enjoy and I hope this helps that guy about to throw a Genesis out the window :)
 

barqs

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Holy crap 110mm how long DID you have to roll this sucker to get it to fit in DID and was it a tight fit? Man this is going to make my hands ache for days!!!

Ok,my 32 & 30g Kanthal is still not here, but my last rejuvenated coil was looks very sad and flavor was lacking, so I pulled out the nichrome 28 I bought at the local electronics shop (was the only res wire they stock) and set about making a coil for my new 110mm #500 mesh wick, 10wraps, steady 1.5Ohms, wrapped the coil around a drill bit then inserted drill bit into DID tightened connectors slid in juiced up #500 wick, and Bob's you mother's brother, 8 watts on the ZMAX and a great vape. This is not my ideal set-up (still running on so who knows) but until my kanthal arrives IT WORKS :banana:


View attachment 137257View attachment 137258View attachment 137259
 

hubblecraft83

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I would love to see you make a how to vid of this! Really nice work I may give this a try!!

I may actually do that! I wish I could have watched a video of my future technique before I spent countless hours cursing and scratching my head. :)

Enjoy!
 
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studiovap

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Holy crap 110mm how long DID you have to roll this sucker to get it to fit in DID and was it a tight fit? Man this is going to make my hands ache for days!!!
I rolled cigarettes for 23yrs so this is no problem.
Secret for me is to get the first part of the roll super small rather than rolling round a pin or whatever & then removing it near the end. It probably took 3 mins no more, to roll and I think I could have rolled 150mm easily enough.(DID wick hole is 3.5mm 100mm mesh came out at around 3.1-3.2mm)
So If you start real small on the first inch, maybe using a needle then remove it and re roll even smaller, then it is a breeze.
 

studiovap

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Good to hear mwa,was pretty sure I wasn't about to explode my ZMAX, but reassuring never the less, I'm up to 8.5 watts now which should be 3.57v and 2.38A, ZMAX goes over 4A so should be safe.
I'm up to 10Watts now, wow head spin :headbang:.

Next to address
Quote Originally Posted by rolbyroland View Post
I use a piece of mesh in the refill hole. I can increase or reduce the amount of air.


From Studiovap:
Do you get ANY leakage from the mesh 'stuffed' fill hole?
I like my fill screw in, but am starting to come round to the idea that especially with a nice #500 fat wick, tank airlock/airflow restriction is a real issue as others have commented.
I was wondering about acquiring a couple of ss bolts (m3?) and after shortening, drilling through the shaft to make an air-hole, or even an tiny adjustable 'tank airflow control assembly', a bit like the Siam Mods airflow control drip tip, but smaller.
might be a little fiddly to make up but worth it
 

Turbo

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Something I've been doing recently is cleaning mu mesh/coil every time my tank is empty, and getting a much cleaner and more flavorful vape each tank I vape. Once empty I simply go to very low voltage like 3v and pulse on/off and leave on for a bit burning the build up of gunk off the mesh/coil. Then once all is off to the eye I go to the sink and fire up the coil again till glowing then let off and turn upside down so no water gets in my tank and quench under really Hot water. This cleans all the charred and burnt leftovers off the mesh and coil and gets it clean, then I just dry off with paper towel and fill the tank again.

I noticed I was losing flavor after a while with all the gunk buildup plus I didn't really want to be vaping the gunk, this has improved my vaping experiance drastically each time I refill my tank. Some may disagree with me hear and I really don't care to much but if your not doing this and cleaning your mesh/coil like this after each tank full, TRY IT ;) it absolutely works.

I don't clean mine after every tank but do at the end of each night, or when the juice starts to turn rather dark. It does make a difference. I use a syringe filled w/ hot water and flush out the tank, then dry burn w/ short pulses, but I've heard people cleaning the way you do w/ turning coil hot and dipping in water. Basically same thing.
 
Rolled a 325 and a 400 tight 70mm 11 in long to compare with the above. Left the three vertical for two hours in two inches of water
325 wicked 1/4 inch above the water line
400 wicked 2 1/2 inches above the waterline
500 just a hair more than the 3 1/4 inches it wicked the first time.

Now this just seemed wrong to me.
Perhaps a week or more I wanted to see what wicked best/fastest of the 325 mesh I recieved, and the unknown 2 sheets of A3 mesh.
Made quite short straws, perhaps 5-6cm but they all sucked up all the water after about an hour or so.

So I just rolled about 60mm wide, almost 11cm long #325 mesh. Put it in a long small glass, vertical but leaning maybe 10-14 degrees, filled with ~1 inch of water.

3.5cm - 35mm - (?) 1 and 1/5 inch (? I'm in metric country)
above the water line after 2 hours. Well, it's pretty much stayed the same after the first30-40 minutes


Not sure if the mesh you have is not 325, or the water is different from Stockholmskt water?
 
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BJ43

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Now this just seemed wrong to me.
Perhaps a week or more I wanted to see what wicked best/fastest of the 325 mesh I recieved, and the unknown 2 sheets of A3 mesh.
Made quite short straws, perhaps 5-6cm but they all sucked up all the water after about an hour or so.

So I just rolled about 60mm wide, almost 11cm long #325 mesh. Put it in a long small glass, vertical but leaning maybe 10-14 degrees, filled with ~1 inch of water.

3.5cm - 35mm - (?) 1 and 1/5 inch (? I'm in metric country)
above the water line after 2 hours. Well, it's pretty much stayed the same after the first30-40 minutes


Not sure if the mesh you have is not 325, or the water is different from Stockholmskt water?
I have found out from other people that some 325 actually has the same hole size as the 400 and that may be your case. I am using distilled water.
Even comparing your 325. if you used it in a Line that uses a 45mm long wick when the juice got below half of the tank it would be at its limits of wicking while a #500 wick could still go an additional 50 mm.
 
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thejager

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running 500 with 28g A1 love it...stil trying to figure out whether 4 or 3 wraps is better

im not sure my total length of my mesh before i rolled it ....probably moreo nthe long side of 1.5inches

the wick rolled fills my Zen Standard opening snugly (no insulator), and the middle of the wick is pretty dense with rolled wick, still loose enough but definitely not a big opening

thoughts?
 
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Cyrus Vap

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I have found out from other people that some 325 actually has the same hole size as the 400 and that may be your case. I am using distilled water.
Even comparing your 325. if you used it in a Line that uses a 45mm long wick when the juice got below half of the tank it would be at its limits of wicking while a #500 wick could still go an additional 50 mm.

Funny I just had this thought, or something like it.

I think you could take a sheet of 400, and turn it into 325 by thickening your wire diameter and ditching some holes? The holes are the same size, there are just less of them per sheet with extra wire taking up the space.

Perhaps this is why most everybody reports 325 been stiffer and less pliable than 400? Except me of course. lol

When I had the mesh under the microscope, the diameters (read: width, 2D) of the wires between my 400, 325, and 270 looked identical, only the hole size was different. Looked identical to the 'naked eye' aided by microscopy that is.

The quigs80 OTOH was beefy as hell, clearly larger wires, and it feels that way. Its like a brick :)

I have a sheet of 400 that's from the ebay vendor from the UK that BJ used to link, and its less pliable than all of the mesh I have from the meshcompany, 270, 325 and 500

errrrrr, where am I going with this

I can't be bothered to do the math, as medical school has made me incurably stupid, but couldn't you pull of something like the reverse of the first scenario? Take 325, and turn it into a 400 by dropping the hole size and simply adding more wires. Then you'd have a less pliable sheet with more, but smaller, holes.

End W-A-N-K
 
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