#500 SS Mesh

Status
Not open for further replies.

studiovap

Unresolved Status
ECF Veteran
Aug 12, 2012
752
1,829
Queensland Australia
@Studiovape.
I didn't want to leave the 3.5mm hole completely open as I'm on the road most of the time and can't stand leaks. It also leaves the wick vulnerable to getting moved around a bit which sometimes leads to shorts. I'm also finding that closing the filling hole isn't making a great deal of difference. It's blocked off on the line when you screw the top cap on and that runs like a dream. I have absolutely no regrets about modding the gbell either as it has definitely improved its performance. I did notice that the did Gemini wicks better than the gbell off the shelf, but still not to my liking. Sounds like you've got it running nicely though so I'll keep tinkering with it. Maybe it's to do with more pressure due to the ratio of oxygen to liquid that the cone shaped chamber of the Gemini creates, allowing a similar environment to the line. I'll have to wait for BJ's thoughts on that.

I've ordered a steam machine gennie to test too as it's a similar shape to the line. Heard it wicks even better than the line, and no flimsy posts. Yay:)
Hey Larry, with the wick at 3mm and the hole at 3.5 you shouldn't get leaks, but I get your point about the whole coils and wick moving around. With 28awg wire though this is t really an issue. Also didn't the line have a small breather hole in the top platform? Thought I'd read that somewhere, this will definitely have aided the line's performance. The DiDs I mentioned are both standards, but I do have a mini Did also with the same top as the Gemini, haven't had much luck running fat wick on that with fillscrew in so although it runs great it does leak at present. That steam machine genny looks sweet. Hope you enjoy it :)
 
Last edited:

Semi Reduction

Senior Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
May 17, 2012
164
153
Melbourne, Australia
Yea actually you're right studiovape there is a small hole in the top of the line. I also just did a test with and without the filling screw and it did dry burn quicker with the filing screw in. It still wicks pretty nicely with it in but there is definitely a difference. Might try northhar's technique or some rolled up mesh. I'll keep you all posted on the steam machine
 
Last edited by a moderator:

studiovap

Unresolved Status
ECF Veteran
Aug 12, 2012
752
1,829
Queensland Australia
Thanks Larry will be good to get feedback on the lil SM genny.

My DID standard, fill screw in goood wicking NO LEAKS.

IMG_0795c.jpg
 
Last edited:

northhar

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Apr 18, 2011
672
776
CanTheBan
Sorry, what's a "cut in half positive pole?"

The center pole of the atty connector. It has a small breather hole down the tube center, it was small enough to let air in without letting juice out.. I had to cut it just above the bevel which is almost halfway down because of the G-Bell's beveled cap.
 
Last edited:

emonty

Flavor Junky
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Oct 15, 2009
7,612
8,850
the Netherlands
Hey, quick question ;

I was tinkering with the chid yesterday. I knew that i needed to re oxidize my wick but went ahead and threw it together. When I used my cheap Harbor Freight ohm meter it threw out 19ish ohms! The coil was about 3 inches worth of 32g kanthal.

This is a short right?

o yeahhh.......
 

northhar

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Apr 18, 2011
672
776
CanTheBan
What brand carto did you use northhar?

I used a Smok Dual coil carto.. The center pole is long.. They solder the wires to that pole, so I de-solder rather than Dremel them off..because like all chin stuff it is chrome plated brass.. (I see no problem with this since it is for air not juice) . After de-soldering I push out the center pin.. I do not care about the insulator since these are used up cartos I kept for modding parts.. :)

BTW I use the same thing in my DID not cut since the cap dose not interfere with the pole..
 

vapspaz

Vaping Master
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Oct 21, 2010
4,218
8,873
SC
Was it only a couple of wraps gunking up, or the whole coil?

No, it was the entire coil. That's what was so crazy about it. I "think" I figured it out though. I unrolled my wick just a little to make it fit tighter inside the coils. It's working well and no signs of gunk yet. I must have had a slight gap between the wick and coils and it cause the juice to burn a little. It tasted pretty good though. lol

Got my mini DID last night so if I ever get that little ....... working I'll have something to fall back on when I'm playing around with a new coil set-up and not be have a nic fit when I get ....... :D
 

LucidAce

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Aug 9, 2012
587
393
right about here, USA
hey all...any tips on getting it to be really tight?...i tend to get it down and tight pretty well...but then i just cant get it any more? suggestions for getting a tighter wick?

thanks!

I struggled with that myself and am still no pro, but what helped me immensely was keeping it snug and tight as I was rolling it up the first time. It's a little tricky since you don't want to flatten or crease anything when the tube is still thin and fragile, but I just went slow and tried keeping things snug so there was as close to no hole in the middle as possible right from the beginning. That made getting the final wick tight much easier than trying to slim it down all the way after it was rolled up.
 

horton

ECF Guru
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Aug 11, 2010
21,653
1,692
Left Side of Florida
I was just wondering if the people that make this mesh stuff could actually make a solid mesh wick? I would think it wold be possible?

THAT would be AWESOME!

I'm no physicist, but I'm not sure you would get any capillary action with a solid sheet. That's what I'm assuming you meant in your post. I'm not trying to rain on your parade, bmarley, but I think you need some spaces for the juice to move up through the mesh to get to the coil. I may be way off base, but that is how I understand things. The way mfg's. keep coming out with smaller and smaller mesh, it wouldn't surprise me if we don't get to a point of diminishing returns in terms of the hole count. What is too small in order to still get capillary action going? I have no idea.
Again, I'm not trying to shoot down your idea, just opining about what might or might not happen.
Hope everyone has a great weekend!!!
 

Crack3dOne

Ultra Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
May 27, 2012
1,016
1,643
Northern VA
I'm no physicist, but I'm not sure you would get any capillary action with a solid sheet. That's what I'm assuming you meant in your post. I'm not trying to rain on your parade, bmarley, but I think you need some spaces for the juice to move up through the mesh to get to the coil. I may be way off base, but that is how I understand things. The way mfg's. keep coming out with smaller and smaller mesh, it wouldn't surprise me if we don't get to a point of diminishing returns in terms of the hole count. What is too small in order to still get capillary action going? I have no idea.
Again, I'm not trying to shoot down your idea, just opining about what might or might not happen.
Hope everyone has a great weekend!!!

I think what he was getting at was the manufacturing of a wick, cylindrical in shape, as a whole piece. A mesh "bar" so to speak. Instead of a wick that was rolled up out of a sheet. Maybe? That's what I pictured, but sounds impossible to make anyhow.

Sent from my Transformer TF101 running on SS mesh & Kanthal.
 

Leothwyn

Ultra Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
May 7, 2011
1,617
2,713
56
N. California
www.ci-studios.com
hey all...any tips on getting it to be really tight?...i tend to get it down and tight pretty well...but then i just cant get it any more? suggestions for getting a tighter wick?

thanks!

What worked for me when I got to that point is to put the wick on a smooth surface and roll it with a board. You'll find that pressure/rolling in one direction will tighten it, and the other direction doesn't.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Users who are viewing this thread