#500 SS Mesh

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Just an eGo 3.7v battery. :)

Errol

Ah, well when I look at it from that perspective it does look a little different - I also killed 2 ego (TW Tornado branded) actual batteries in couple weeks on little atties and cartos, but not the circuit part, just the actual cells - mine just didn't like being recharged much and failed quite badly, hence I ripped open the 2nd failed one, ditched the U/S cell and used the tube and c'board as a ~3.3v PT. - The electronics have held up OK though, so I just put it down to crappy cells inside?..

DV
 

Crack3dOne

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I've been rocking my GP Paps with a bliSS with the airholes bored out to 1mm each. Two 40mm #500 wicks with a 5/6 wrap 30awg K-a1 coils (both coils are of the same strand of wire). Came out to 0.6 ohms. With a fresh battery at 4.2v, that’s 7amps and 30watts!!!! The vapor is just ridiculous and the flavor is excellent. Been thinking about polishing the bliSS to match.

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studiovap

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Outstanding job of Modding the AGA-T Studiovap. Really impressed with both the work you did polishing off the knurl and finishing the wick holes, as well as the factory machining. DC wick set up looks sweet!

One thing inquiring minds want to know. How does it vape? Does the top cap have a second hole to align with the opposing wick?

Stunning look on the Pap's btw.

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Thanks BSD, yes there is another 0.8mm hole drilled by me to line up with the other wick, the 0.8 ohm dual coil setup vaped ok, but really you would need a good 30watts or 5v to run it really sweet IMHO, so a 0.5 Ohm total resistance would be needed on 3.7v imr. I hav'nt had the guts to inflict over 7.5amps on the Paps just yet LOL.
I did try the 0.8 ohms setup with two stacked 18350s in the paps 18650 tube (wouldnt scree up all the way, but enough)just for kicks, that got em cooking 80 watts, didn't short or pop the coils, but yes tasted burnt.
So until I try another setup in dual mode, I have it running a single 0.7 ohm 28g 4/3 wrap , with the extra air hole and wick hole stylishly plugged. With the single wick ( 48mm rolled with 18g center hole 3mm diameter for a change, fill screw in)
it vape great lots of vapor and nice smooth but nice thumping throat hit.
 
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Errol

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Ah, well when I look at it from that perspective it does look a little different - I also killed 2 ego (TW Tornado branded) actual batteries in couple weeks on little atties and cartos, but not the circuit part, just the actual cells - mine just didn't like being recharged much and failed quite badly, hence I ripped open the 2nd failed one, ditched the U/S cell and used the tube and c'board as a ~3.3v PT. - The electronics have held up OK though, so I just put it down to crappy cells inside?..

DV

With my 3.7V eGo it toasted the IC to where the power is always on. That's happened twice in the two years I've been vaping though I don't know what caused the first one to fail. I now use my original VV, a MadVape VV Box Mod that I know has an instant cut off when a short or overload is detected. Won't take a chance with my newer VV units.

Errol
 

Karn

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70 more pages to go wow what a thread. I'd just like to thank all you who have commented here. This thread has been a great help to me as i'm new to RBA's just got my first yesterday and one more today. It was a rough start but after much tinkering I got them both working lol 1. AGA-T 28g 1.4ohm 100mm 2. Chid 32g 2.6ohm 75mm 500 mesh)
 

Cyrus Vap

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The million dallar question, I like the DID 3.5mm, allows for flexibility and experimentation.
I modded my AGA-T to 3.2mm with a 3/4 way up from underneath 3.5 mm countersink, and polished of Knurnling, bore out for dual wick etc etc, love to experiment LOL :)

My Dual wick setup AGA-t, Polished knurling,spring loaded posostive post with 6mm ss washers,drilled out 3.2mm on top wickhole, drilled 3/4 way up from underneath 3.5mm countersink, extra 0.8mm airhole drilled for second wick, 5/4 30g kanthal on each wick (Total Ohms 0.8Ohms), ss hex head m3 ground screws (One drilled out to 1mm for fill hole.) removed cap oring ( all lines up, not needed).
Just playin with the paps, will probably recoil to higher Ohms for the Zmax in dual 18350mode :)
Sorry for the poor quality pics, but you get the idea,


Mesh rolled for both holes in one, to be cut in two.

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Coils ready for wicks.

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Ready for first trial.

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Purdy on the Paps

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looks great man!

How'd you take down that knurled part? believe it or not I want to get rid of that silliness on my DID, probably harder with steel I know, but it pisses me off lol
 

LucidAce

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Is it just me, or does the LavaGen seem like a genesis device that's designed in a way that's decidedly inconvenient for how many of us set up our devices because of the way the terminals are set up and the way the mouthpiece takes away above-coil wick area? Having a clear atomizer chamber is quite cool, though.

 
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studiovap

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looks great man!

How'd you take down that knurled part? believe it or not I want to get rid of that silliness on my DID, probably harder with steel I know, but it pisses me off lol

Thanks Cyrus, here you go:


I used a Boshe battery drill (took a few batteries a mains drill would be easier), a 510-510 connector, a file, wet & dry sandpaper 200-1200 grade, ss mesh and silver polish.
Dismantle the AGAt and remove all loose parts ( ground screws, o-rings,cap & tank, then screw top and bottom back onto center spindle (leave o-rings on the ends of spindle.
Use a 510 to 510 connector to screw AGA_T onto then insert 510 connector into drill chuck and spin up drill to check for 'trueness',
( this will damage the 510-510 connector (3$ big woop!)because you will need to crush it slightly to get a good enough grip in the chuck, and may need to keep tightening it as you go)
Then you can either spin the drill and apply the spinning AGA_T evenly onto very course sand paper or a file, or apply the file or sand paper to the AGA-T.
the task is to remove the knurling to the point where the diamonds are barely visible, without going too deep in any one area,
Then move to a slightly finer grade of sand paper until all visible cross hatching is gone the I repeated with 20grade sandpaper,250grade,400g,800g,1200g, then #270 ss mesh, then cloth and 'Solvro', then clean in detergent , rinse and reassemble.
Simple
 

studiovap

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I can't believe that AGA-T is SS. I have one in transit. I want to use it for work. I want to eliminate cartomizer usage once and for all.

It's all stainless steel, appart from the center post,nuts and center spindle, I paid $40 for two plus 6 tanks, great value, the non ss parts are probably Chinese mystery metal, chrome plated, but If the chrome comes off I will sand the parts down and electroplate them with gold or silver Bling! :)
 

Jimi D.

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It's all stainless steel, appart from the center post,nuts and center spindle, I paid $40 for two plus 6 tanks, great value, the non ss parts are probably Chinese mystery metal, chrome plated, but If the chrome comes off I will sand the parts down and electroplate them with gold or silver Bling! :)
Not bad for the price. I vaped the DID with brass for awhile, and developed a right eye twitch LOL J/K. I like the gold bling center post idea :)
 

asdaq

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All SS aside from parts that are good and close to the coil too. That lavagen has a knurled nut that I swear is not made in SS, I use the #6-32 size in brass for my switch and really don't think this can be had in SS or smaller either. I would be curious if any of these knurled nuts are actually SS.
 

Jimi D.

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All SS aside from parts that are good and close to the coil too. That lavagen has a knurled nut that I swear is not made in SS, I use the #6-32 size in brass for my switch and really don't think this can be had in SS or smaller either. I would be curious if any of these knurled nuts are actually SS.
The knurled nuts from MM vapors are made of SS. I had to sell one of my kids to purchase them though. :D
 

chuckh

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I have been using that set up on a 5ml Cobra and have not made any adjustments to it. I run 3-4 ml's of juice through it every day and the coils are not showing much wear. As long as I resist the temptation to fiddle around with it, I'm curious as to how long it will last.

I have a 5ml Cobra also. My problem I can't get it to wick. Using #500 mesh. Do you have any suggestions?
 
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