A pdib mod :>p

[SeaNap]

Hey guys, Im an electrical engineer and have a lot of experience with thermal overloads and I can say for a very certain fact that the brass shim will bypass the safety spring. The spring will not collapse. The electricity will take the path with the least resistance, in this case is the brass shim, if the shim were to "collapse" (disintegrate) then the flow of electricity will go to the spring, and THEN the spring will collapse.

To clarify another point brought up in this thread about the spring collapse being heat related. It is heat related and it is caused by high amps. However the heat we are talking about is in the 100's of degrees, and the amps would be well over 50A (a short causes the amps to rise exponentially over time). I'm feeling lazy but the failure point of the spring could be calculated using the type of metal, and the cross section of the wire etc.

Now with all that out of the way, I love your creativity, and your documented procedure to improving the voltage drop. It is clear that the resistance in the safety spring is the cause of the increased voltage drop. A better mod to try would be to remove the safety spring altogether and just put a screw in place, and put an inline 20A fuse on the positive terminal. The first step would be to make sure that the fuse doesnt add the same amount of resistance as the spring.

 

[Xobeloot]

Yeah. I have a Harbor Freight right down the road. Probably the same stuff that fast tech sells without the month wait

Great info on the ghost voltage. I have a couple batteries that came on my last field exercise that look pretty rough. Rolling in dirt doesn't treat batteries well... The REO on the otherhand... Unscathed!

 

[lizardnipples]

Is the anodized coating sort of an insulator? I know the painted mods would need to be sanded, but just not sure about the anodizing.

 

[Xobeloot]

Hey guys, Im an electrical engineer and have a lot of experience with thermal overloads and I can say for a very certain fact that the brass shim will bypass the safety spring. The spring will not collapse. The electricity will take the path with the least resistance, in this case is the brass shim, if the shim were to "collapse" (disintegrate) then the flow of electricity will go to the spring, and THEN the spring will collapse.

To clarify another point brought up in this thread about the spring collapse being heat related. It is heat related and it is caused by high amps. However the heat we are talking about is in the 100's of degrees, and the amps would be well over 50A (a short causes the amps to rise exponentially over time). I'm feeling lazy but the failure point of the spring could be calculated using the type of metal, and the cross section of the wire etc.

Now with all that out of the way, I love your creativity, and your documented procedure to improving the voltage drop. It is clear that the resistance in the safety spring is the cause of the increased voltage drop. A better mod to try would be to remove the safety spring altogether and just put a screw in place, and put an inline 20A fuse on the positive terminal. The first step would be to make sure that the fuse doesnt add the same amount of resistance as the spring.

Great info! Now just to pick your brain here: Any idea why the one short I've had occurred on a coil that dry-fired perfectly, but as soon as I added my juice, the spring dropped almost instantly?

 

[NicoHolic]

With a bottom switch mod, worn coating can bypass the switch. With a top switch like the REO, it can bypass the hot spring.

I'd think heat shrink would be too thick for use in a REO... maybe not. Electrical tape is a mess when it gets hot. I think I'd use thick cling wrap.

 

[Xobeloot]

you can actually get different shrinks. Need to look at the dimensions of it. the pre and post-shrink dimensions should be on the package. I used a black shrink on the posts of of my A7. I'd likely look for a thinner wrap for the batteries.

 

[unloaded]

I don't think a silver plated hot spring will work. The spring has enough internal resistance built in to heat at X amount of current to cause the collapse. The electrons would flow in the silver plating without causing enough heat to collapse.

I used brass shim stock .009" to make a firing pin in my 2.1 I never did any measurements with a meter but it hits noticeably harder than my other mods. It's much less springy than the original firing pin, I call it a hair trigger. I had one spring collapse with it, let a guy try it at local shop and he put the gorilla thumb mash on it (no offence xobeloot). It didn't actually short, it just didn't spring back and continually fired, heating the spring enough to collapse. I think plating the firing pin or bonding the .001" shim stock to it will get you some gains and still keep the safety of the spring. A brass screw for the spring might help too. Everything being squeaky clean of course.

 

[SeaNap]

xobeloot thats an interesting failure for sure... Im assuming this was on your REO, on a RM2? Were you squonking or direct drip? If squonking the force of the juice could have pushed the tail of the positive post to touch the negative sidewall? or if you thought the screw was tight but the force of the juice dislodged it the leg of the coil and there was enough air gap to create a spark? It's hard to say, Rob might have seen this before, have you asked him about it?

 

[Xobeloot]

Nah. I truly don't know. Yes, it was on a grand + rm2. It really was a freak occurrence! It wasn't a fault in the atty. I have since recoiled that atty with no issues. Slapped a new spring in and everything is gravy.

I guess we can just say that it is a good thing that the hot spring is there. I make some strange coils. This one had a freak failure, but Rob's design prevented a major failure.

 

[redeyedancer]

So, Rob, do you find my warnings about the safety spring being "deactivated", questions about such, and conclusion that that was the case to be sufficient? Is there anything else you would have liked to see?

At this point in the thread, my questions to the other REOnauts are focused on learning about how these things happen (shorts), so that we can be smart and prepared.

I have noticed you always warn people I appreciate that . I hope you understand were I am coming from

 

[darkzero]

Is the anodized coating sort of an insulator? I know the painted mods would need to be sanded, but just not sure about the anodizing.

Yes it is.

 

[pdib]

Hey guys, Im an electrical engineer and have a lot of experience with thermal overloads and I can say for a very certain fact that the brass shim will bypass the safety spring. The spring will not collapse. The electricity will take the path with the least resistance, in this case is the brass shim, if the shim were to "collapse" (disintegrate) then the flow of electricity will go to the spring, and THEN the spring will collapse.

To clarify another point brought up in this thread about the spring collapse being heat related. It is heat related and it is caused by high amps. However the heat we are talking about is in the 100's of degrees, and the amps would be well over 50A (a short causes the amps to rise exponentially over time). I'm feeling lazy but the failure point of the spring could be calculated using the type of metal, and the cross section of the wire etc.

Now with all that out of the way, I love your creativity, and your documented procedure to improving the voltage drop. It is clear that the resistance in the safety spring is the cause of the increased voltage drop. A better mod to try would be to remove the safety spring altogether and just put a screw in place, and put an inline 20A fuse on the positive terminal. The first step would be to make sure that the fuse doesnt add the same amount of resistance as the spring.

Thanks so much for that! My brain is grOwing . . .. . and my face is still there. I'm off to the 20 amp fuse research department . . .. .

 

[pdib]

I have noticed you always warn people I appreciate that . I hope you understand were I am coming from

Totally!

I feel a lot more confident posting inside these walls, because there's a lot of smart, cautious folk, and very few devil-may-care . . . . . (not so smart). . . . people. I wouldn't post this in the general e-cig discussion. In here, people call me on my craphenootle, and people teach me stuff! I always wait (ish?) for your response, Rob, as my weather vane for "go" or "no go".

 

[dhomes]

Hey guys, Im an electrical engineer and have a lot of experience with thermal overloads and I can say for a very certain fact that the brass shim will bypass the safety spring. The spring will not collapse. The electricity will take the path with the least resistance, in this case is the brass shim, if the shim were to "collapse" (disintegrate) then the flow of electricity will go to the spring, and THEN the spring will collapse.

To clarify another point brought up in this thread about the spring collapse being heat related. It is heat related and it is caused by high amps. However the heat we are talking about is in the 100's of degrees, and the amps would be well over 50A (a short causes the amps to rise exponentially over time). I'm feeling lazy but the failure point of the spring could be calculated using the type of metal, and the cross section of the wire etc.

Now with all that out of the way, I love your creativity, and your documented procedure to improving the voltage drop. It is clear that the resistance in the safety spring is the cause of the increased voltage drop. A better mod to try would be to remove the safety spring altogether and just put a screw in place, and put an inline 20A fuse on the positive terminal. The first step would be to make sure that the fuse doesnt add the same amount of resistance as the spring.

Perfect solution! I'm running mine just on a silver-plated brass screw/nut but will definitely grab a 20A fuse

see? that's what we needed here, an Electrical Engineer

 

[super_X_drifter]

All this talk of modding the baddest ... mods you can buy made me decide its time I try my hand at a mod of my own.

It's the only mod on gonna do to my REOs.

Voltage drop before the mod: I don't know.

Mod: switch black wrinkle door on black wrinkle grand with silver hammertone door on silver hammertone grand.

Results: kick AYuss.

Voltage drop after mod: I don't know. It vapes like a runaway freight train and if I ever need any more power I would just grab my VV grand and crank it up to the Newman setting and scorch the cilia out of my lungs.

Perhaps you modders just need to take all the science out of the equation and just get ya a VV grand

 

[Xobeloot]

Could this be the future birth of the Reo Grand v2.0?

 

[pdib]

Yeah, dhomes, and its 15C, not 15 Amp. (sheesh, an "AW bias", go figure)

 

[Xobeloot]

All this talk of modding the baddest ... mods you can buy made me decide its time I try my hand at a mod of my own.

It's the only mod on gonna do to my REOs.

Voltage drop before the mod: I don't know.

Mod: switch black wrinkle door on black wrinkle grand with silver hammertone door on silver hammertone grand.

Results: kick AYuss.

Voltage drop after mod: I don't know and don't give a flying rats AYuss. It vapes like a runaway freight train and if I ever need any more power I would just grab my VV grand and crank it up to the Newman setting and scorch the cilia out of my lungs.

Perhaps you modders just need to take all the science out of the equation and just get ya a VV grand

I just got a new door for my mini today and it did vape noticeably better!

 

[pdib]

Could this be the future birth of the Reo Grand v2.0?

You mean with the 20 Amp fuse?

Or, better still, your choice when you order, 5, 10, 15 . . .. (that should be plenty)

 

[SeaNap]

Full disclosure, I do not currently have a REO or any other mech mod, YET (Its in the mail should have it in 42 hrs!) So I do not have an intimate knowledge of the REO yet. If your goal is to reduce the voltage drop under super-sub ohm coils, I would suggest soldering a 12awg wire to the bottom of the safety spring, and the other end directly to the negative of the atty connector. Does that make sense? It should help, albiet not as much as bypassing the safety spring.