A pdib mod :>p

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nerak

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While I'm not sure I want to bypass the spring, I was curious about two things:

1) Would sanding down the paint beneath the hot spring plate help lower the overall voltage drop?

2) Could a brass hot spring and plate be constructed, or would that render the short circuit security useless?

Just want to jump in with one thing.

The contact point of the circuit is the screw holding the plate of the spring. At least Robert has said that a little Noalox on the screw is what might help contact.
 

redeyedancer

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Well I am totally against modifying the spring in the mod . The mod is extremely safe just the way it is . I can build a coil on a stock reo that will hurt people I mean burn your lungs uncomfortable pain . I understand why the mod geeks want to do these things . What worries me is people with less skills will try these modifications with the improper batteries and hurt themselves .
 

dhomes

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Well I am totally against modifying the spring in the mod . The mod is extremely safe just the way it is . I can build a coil on a stock reo that will hurt people I mean burn your lungs uncomfortable pain . I understand why the mod geeks want to do these things . What worries me is people with less skills will try these modifications with the improper batteries and hurt themselves .

I agree with you rob, i know what i was getting into and understand the risks, and i have been doing this for a while eith ither types of mods, but most people should stay away from modding their devices
 

dhomes

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I'd want more than one data point, though. I'd test with batteries at an under-fire potential of about 2.7-2.8V to ensure continued safe operation at lower charge levels. I'd consider any batteries used for these tests as potentially expendable (and certainly the hot springs).

I'd do this with a shorted 510 adapter rather than an RM2 to prevent damaging any atty insulation. Even at this, the insulation of the 510 in the mod potentially may be compromised.

Safety measures: face shield over glasses, heavy gloves, non-synthetic clothing with lab apron. If you think you might gasp if a battery vents, consider a respirator. Do this under a hood or outside. Wrap loops of tape around the battery top and bottom to be able to extract it with gloves on if necessary. Hope for the best, be prepared for the worst.

I shorted a sony 30 amp last saturday, not on the reo but on a mkb-ts to which i removed the spring some months ago

The firing mechanism was very filled with dirt so the button got stuck, i took a drag and didnt notice that it wasnt released

After a few seconds i heard a psssssssssshhhhhh coming from the mod, went to check and when i grabbed it it was just cold as ice but wouldnt fire anymore, took the battery out, it was warm but nit hit, checked voltage: 0 volts

Tossed it

Quality imr battery are a must here. Or even better, dont do it
 

lizardnipples

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Well I am totally against modifying the spring in the mod . The mod is extremely safe just the way it is . I can build a coil on a stock reo that will hurt people I mean burn your lungs uncomfortable pain . I understand why the mod geeks want to do these things . What worries me is people with less skills will try these modifications with the improper batteries and hurt themselves .

You're probably right...vaping isn't safer than the stinkies when you get your face blown off after trying to get that .2 less drop!
 

upsetter21

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The last 5 posts or so regarding safety are spot on!

By suggesting places to look for the shim stock, I was not endorsing this modification. However if one wishes to take one's own risk, one should use quality material.

I should also mention that shimming buttons does not carry the same risk as bypassing hot springs. As long as the button mechanically operates, there is no added risk to shimming the button since the button is a dead short anyhow. I've just found that the steel button springs in many of the tube mods is a point of higher resistance (I could feel the heat). When I started putting a brass sheet rolled around my button springs they stopped heating up; even at 20watts! It also improved the action of my switches since brass has a nice padding effect and stays smooth and closes the play in the switch. I've performed this on MKB-TS, GGTS, & Ghost Modder TS.
 

Xobeloot

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Been working my little booty off all day getting ready for a field exercise. Just now getting caught up on this thread.

Here is my question/statement: The shim mod itself seems to work great, however it potentially eliminates the hot spring and can cause a bigbadaboom...

That leads me into my inquiry: What if one were to silver plate the stock reo spring/screw setup? One would think the conductivity would increase quite a bit, but would it still collapse?
 

pdib

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No doubt whatsoever that this bypasses the hot spring. In an overcurrent condition (ie. short circuit) the spring may collapse, but the brass would remain and would potentially continue the circuit.

BTW I use similar brass shim rolled into all my side button mechs ( exc. 69 mod) and experience reduced volt drop as a result every time.

with this, I completely disagree. One tenth, one twentieth of the weight of the battery collapses that brass in an instant. This is purely hypothetical; but, if the spring were to collapse, there is absolutely no way that that brass would continue to push the battery up against the positive contact.
 

dhomes

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Been working my little booty off all day getting ready for a field exercise. Just now getting caught up on this thread.

Here is my question/statement: The shim mod itself seems to work great, however it potentially eliminates the hot spring and can cause a bigbadaboom...

That leads me into my inquiry: What if one were to silver plate the stock reo spring/screw setup? One would think the conductivity would increase quite a bit, but would it still collapse?

yes, it will collapse, plating is measured in microns from what I was told in the jewelry, we are talking 10 to 20 microns

still, you need to remove the painting below the base of the spring

and plating is harder on some materials than others

Brass is easy to plate, for copper I had to had mine double plated for perfect continuity

and the jewelry told me they wouldn't plate steel or aluminum at all
 

Xobeloot

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yes, it will collapse, plating is measured in microns from what I was told in the jewelry, we are talking 10 to 20 microns

still, you need to remove the painting below the base of the spring

and plating is harder on some materials than others

Brass is easy to plate, for copper I had to had mine double plated for perfect continuity

and the jewelry told me they wouldn't plate steel or aluminum at all

Gotcha. Thank you!
 

pdib

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Well I am totally against modifying the spring in the mod . The mod is extremely safe just the way it is . I can build a coil on a stock reo that will hurt people I mean burn your lungs uncomfortable pain . I understand why the mod geeks want to do these things . What worries me is people with less skills will try these modifications with the improper batteries and hurt themselves .

I agree with you rob, i know what i was getting into and understand the risks, and i have been doing this for a while eith ither types of mods, but most people should stay away from modding their devices

Agreed. Absolutely. Yes.
 

pdib

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So. I have a couple questions. Before asking them, I want to make clear, as I've edited to state at the start of this thread, that this modification is not one I would recommend as it is unsafe. Really.

I was thinking today, and it crossed my mind that almost all the shorts (if not all) that I've heard of occur either upon building a new coil or attaching an atty to a mod. My question is this . .. .. At what other times do shorts occur? I've thought that if one dropped their device and the coil shifted, it might create a short. Any other times; besides setting up/screwing in an atomizer?
 
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