I'm aware, and i'm using Sonys 30A, but just seeing 60A there, dang!
so that mean that a Sonyc has what, 90A for 5 seconds before blowing up?
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I'm aware, and i'm using Sonys 30A, but just seeing 60A there, dang!
so that mean that a Sonyc has what, 90A for 5 seconds before blowing up?
There are safety margins left and right - mostly because battery cells age with and without use, the older your cell is and the harder you worked it, the more dangerous it becomes. We don't need those 30, 60 or 90 amps - and the battery would be empty in a couple minutes.
What we (or at least I) want is the voltage stability and safety that comes with the fact that we usually only use a tenth or so of what the cell can theoretically deliver.
What we (or at least I) want is the voltage stability and safety that comes with the fact that we usually only use a tenth or so of what the cell can theoretically deliver.
Haha! I know 20 coils is nothing, but I've went so far as to do a triple coil setup without shorting it at all. I'm very, very careful when making a coil. I lack the skills to make one of those beast beautiful micro coils yet, but I'm always so concerned about safety that I usually spend more than what it would take me to make a simple coil just because I run it through so many tests to make sure I don't short it. I know nothing other than a collapsed spring and oxidized firing pin will happen, but still it's a PITA and a sign that I'm not paying attention to it.
I know you are not being mean. Hell, I should thank you (THANK YOU!
) for your concern. I shorted my REO within 24 hours of getting it, and ever since I've been so wary of it that even though I had to go through the agony of waiting nearly another week after having just got it, I'm thankful for that short. If it hadn't happened, I probably wouldn't have even paid attention to how important preventing a short is.
i love the way this thread is going!!!
do any of you guys work for a nuclear power plant or power grid? who needs batteries?
i'm looking forward to the post where someone vapes the entire Reo bottle in one toot!
y'all know it's coming...
do any of you guys work for a nuclear power plant or power grid? who needs batteries?
i'm looking forward to the post where someone vapes the entire Reo bottle in one toot!
y'all know it's coming...
So I just found out that there is a metal plating store like 2 blocks from me, so I may have to steal dhomes idea with the silver-plating... wonder how much that will cost here in the states.
Haha I actually work in power distribution and variable frequency control, so I figure if I can handle working with 4160V and designing panels that manipulate 1000's of amps, 4V and 10A should be no problem
Yep, but I dont do HVAC, I work with pumps/conveyors/ and robots (the industrial kind not the cool kind).
Those Sony 30A 1600mah batterys only have 12mOhm of internal resistance, by comparason the AW IMR 1600 has 32mOhm, and those other MNKE have 23mOhm. the Sony's are looking like real winners. How have they been holding up?
Those Sony 30A 1600mah batterys only have 12mOhm of internal resistance, by comparason the AW IMR 1600 has 32mOhm, and those other MNKE have 23mOhm. the Sony's are looking like real winners. How have they been holding up?
Seanap, I'm loving them, wish they were not out of stock at fasttech, would immediately get 4 or 6 more to replace my panasonics
And they showed me last weekend that they fail safely (shorted one on another device, it just got warm as it did a pssshhhhh sound)
And they showed me last weekend that they fail safely (shorted one on another device, it just got warm as it did a pssshhhhh sound)
fasstech really selling them for 6 bucks? 
I noticed that those don't have the button top, is that how you used them in your mod, or did you solder (glue?) on a rare earth magnet? Li Ion w/ no protection does make me worry slightly more than IMR's, they arn't exactly known for their safety. Does your button ever get hot?
I noticed that those don't have the button top, is that how you used them in your mod, or did you solder (glue?) on a rare earth magnet? Li Ion w/ no protection does make me worry slightly more than IMR's, they arn't exactly known for their safety. Does your button ever get hot?
Never ever got hot, even using them on a .4 ohm coil
As I mentioned, one shorted on a mkb-ts very safely, just got kind of warm, but you could grab it in your hand
And yeah, I made a button top with a little solder
Had bad experience on a provari and gluing magnets already
As I mentioned, one shorted on a mkb-ts very safely, just got kind of warm, but you could grab it in your hand
And yeah, I made a button top with a little solder
Had bad experience on a provari and gluing magnets already
i love the way this thread is going!!!
do any of you guys work for a nuclear power plant or power grid? who needs batteries?
i'm looking forward to the post where someone vapes the entire Reo bottle in one toot!
y'all know it's coming...
Nuclear? Psssssssfffff, soon will be requesting. Solar powerd REOs from rob
Great info!
I am still impressed as hell by you getting 3.99V with a .7ohm coil, After doing much research I'm not sure there is any more conductivity you could squeeze out of that thing. I have run some calculations and you are running at virtually 0ohm resistance in the mod, the only resistance you have is the coil, and battery. Silver plating, and no spring combined with the sony battery make for 1 very efficient mod.
How has the copper sheet been working pdib? That is probably by far the easyest way to get the maximum reduction of voltage drop. I like that you can pop in that shim when vaping sub ohm, and easily take it out when not needed
I am still impressed as hell by you getting 3.99V with a .7ohm coil, After doing much research I'm not sure there is any more conductivity you could squeeze out of that thing. I have run some calculations and you are running at virtually 0ohm resistance in the mod, the only resistance you have is the coil, and battery. Silver plating, and no spring combined with the sony battery make for 1 very efficient mod.
How has the copper sheet been working pdib? That is probably by far the easyest way to get the maximum reduction of voltage drop. I like that you can pop in that shim when vaping sub ohm, and easily take it out when not needed
Well, it's working great on a lot of levels. Tech. first. I'm seeing a consistent v-drop of ~.4 volts versus .65V to 1V drops in a variety of subΩ builds (ranging from .3-.6Ω) on 3 different REO Grands w/ 3 different atties. (interesting to me, is that my v-drop is consistent. Without the shim, the lower the res. the greater the drop. With the shim, its always the same. Which, BTW is the drop that Rob claims to have measured on LR atomizers, 1.5Ω, let's say). So, it's a very simple solution, with very consistent results.
On another level, it's super easy to chose to engage or disengage, with a flick of the finger. (Remove batt., flip up the brass, re-insert batt.) See pics below for engaged and disengaged. This works in so many ways. ONE is safety. Every time I rebuild a coil, change atties, or batteries, I disengage it and use the spring until I'm certain the build/batt. is solid, and good to go. Then, and always only then, I drop the shim back in place. ANOTHER, is "2 speed variable voltage". I can build a coil to suit my un-modded device, and then activate the shim when the battery voltage is at about 3.9V, and (effectively) kick my vape back up by about .5V. ALSO, when I do build a coil to suit the modded power, (a higher res. coil) I get better flavor, faster kick-time, and of course, better battery life.
********I NEVER USE IT UNTIL I'VE TESTED MY CURRENT SETUP WITHOUT IT ENGAGED!!!!!!**************
PICS: DISENGAGED ▼
HERE ▲ IS WHERE I DO NOT WANT MY BATTERY'S SHRINK WRAP TO BE DAMAGED!!!!!!!
ENGAGED ▼
On another level, it's super easy to chose to engage or disengage, with a flick of the finger. (Remove batt., flip up the brass, re-insert batt.) See pics below for engaged and disengaged. This works in so many ways. ONE is safety. Every time I rebuild a coil, change atties, or batteries, I disengage it and use the spring until I'm certain the build/batt. is solid, and good to go. Then, and always only then, I drop the shim back in place. ANOTHER, is "2 speed variable voltage". I can build a coil to suit my un-modded device, and then activate the shim when the battery voltage is at about 3.9V, and (effectively) kick my vape back up by about .5V. ALSO, when I do build a coil to suit the modded power, (a higher res. coil) I get better flavor, faster kick-time, and of course, better battery life.
********I NEVER USE IT UNTIL I'VE TESTED MY CURRENT SETUP WITHOUT IT ENGAGED!!!!!!**************
PICS: DISENGAGED ▼
HERE ▲ IS WHERE I DO NOT WANT MY BATTERY'S SHRINK WRAP TO BE DAMAGED!!!!!!!
ENGAGED ▼
OK! SO! (doting mother) Ya' got that? If you're gonna do this, jcalis, always, always pull the shim aside and let the spring do its job (as I described above) . . . .. is one thing.
. . .. the other, is no more trying to save a buck on atties!!!!! No more A7s, no original Reomizers. etc. etc. Don't be using any atties until you've researched whether they are prone to shorting (like in the stem, and such).
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LOL
Nice thing you can just flick the shim to let the spring do its job while trying a new coil. I'm fairly new with bottom feeders so pretty much the only attys I have is RM2s. I wouldn't want any other to be honest I'm hooked to them
. I was planning on getting a couple of inexpensive IGO-L (About 5) for dripping at home different flavors and whatnot instead of changing the bottle since they are sealed. With those I probably wouldn't really want the shim, I mean I'm not going to set up all my REOs to vape at 30+ watts . Again thanks for the heads up on this. Well it's Friday so I guess I'll probably get the brass shims on Monday. I'll update you on this, count on it
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LOL
I'm fairly new with bottom feeders so pretty much the only attys I have is RM2s. I wouldn't want any other to be honest I'm hooked to them
Well it's Friday so I guess I'll probably get the brass shims on Monday. I'll update you on this, count on it
Yep.
The IGO-L won't fit on your Grand without an adapter. I don't use adapters because they wreak havoc on the device's 510 connection. You will be wanting your 510 connection to be in pristine condition (so as to avoid shorts in it).
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Coupl'a notes on hard shorts. Peeps, please also contribute your experiences.
The first thing you may notice (and this is where the brain can be slow), is that "nothing is happening"; meaning, your atty probably won't fire / produce vapor / hiss etc. The current isn't going through the coil (it has found a short cut). Unfortunately, when something doesn't work, we sometimes get insistent . . . . press the button with more determination, try again, etc. We don't want to be doing that. If your atty doesn't fire . . .. STOP! The more you run a short, the worse it can get! And the closer you come to thermal runaway.
The second thing you may notice is that things that don't normally get warm/hot are getting warm/hot. STOP! Don't try it again. Aluminum conducts heat very well; but the REO has a very thick body, so it might be less apparent than with a tube-mod. Myself, whenever I detect heat that seems different (however little), I check it. I actually do this frequently (even with a spring in place). More often than not, its just blood flow to the hand that is operating the mod. But, what I do is: touch the part in question with my other hand. Touch it with the back of my hand, or wrist. My fingers don't detect heat as honestly as they did a few years ago, so I tend to double check with different nerve endings. Always, if I'm checking for heat, I will slide the door open and touch the battery both near the top and bottom. If I become convinced that it was "just me"; I will take another vape holding the mod with my other hand. At this point, I feel comfortable dismissing the alarm. I frequently slide open my battery door and feel the battery, just to check in on it and say "hi".
btw: my AW 1600s run as cool as a cucumber at 0.3Ω. If you are using the right batteries (and we all better be), ANY amount of heat on that battery is indicative of some kind of problem. Not necessarily a short; but maybe dirty contacts, or what have you.
The first thing you may notice (and this is where the brain can be slow), is that "nothing is happening"; meaning, your atty probably won't fire / produce vapor / hiss etc. The current isn't going through the coil (it has found a short cut). Unfortunately, when something doesn't work, we sometimes get insistent . . . . press the button with more determination, try again, etc. We don't want to be doing that. If your atty doesn't fire . . .. STOP! The more you run a short, the worse it can get! And the closer you come to thermal runaway.
The second thing you may notice is that things that don't normally get warm/hot are getting warm/hot. STOP! Don't try it again. Aluminum conducts heat very well; but the REO has a very thick body, so it might be less apparent than with a tube-mod. Myself, whenever I detect heat that seems different (however little), I check it. I actually do this frequently (even with a spring in place). More often than not, its just blood flow to the hand that is operating the mod. But, what I do is: touch the part in question with my other hand. Touch it with the back of my hand, or wrist. My fingers don't detect heat as honestly as they did a few years ago, so I tend to double check with different nerve endings. Always, if I'm checking for heat, I will slide the door open and touch the battery both near the top and bottom. If I become convinced that it was "just me"; I will take another vape holding the mod with my other hand. At this point, I feel comfortable dismissing the alarm. I frequently slide open my battery door and feel the battery, just to check in on it and say "hi".
btw: my AW 1600s run as cool as a cucumber at 0.3Ω. If you are using the right batteries (and we all better be), ANY amount of heat on that battery is indicative of some kind of problem. Not necessarily a short; but maybe dirty contacts, or what have you.
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