AGA-T2 Trial and error... coils and wicks!

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michaelsil1

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How many wraps in your coil? I'm using #500SS, 30g Kanthal, 5/6 coil, and getting 1.8 ohms on my provari.


- Andy . . . Challenge in lieu of being challenged.

When I realized that it was a low ohm issue I went from 4/3 32awg to 6/5 32awg and still got the error it wasn't until I moved the coils around that the amount of ohms came up and worked. This is a little frustrating I didn't see anything about this particular issue in any of the tutorials I guess they weren't using a ProVari.
 

weisner

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When I realized that it was a low ohm issue I went from 4/3 32awg to 6/5 32awg and still got the error it wasn't until I moved the coils around that the amount of ohms came up and worked. This is a little frustrating I didn't see anything about this particular issue in any of the tutorials I guess they weren't using a ProVari.

Sounds to me like you had a short between your coil and the SS mesh less that half way between the positive and negative. I did this on my AGA-T2 using my eVic; similar error the eVic will say "No atomizer found". I figured out eventually that my coil was too tight and that I didn't have enough oxidization on the coil to stop the shorts. In short more oxidization and less wire tension on the coils helped me resolve the issue 4/5 30 AWG Kanthal #400 SS = 1.6 Ohm in my case.
 

michaelsil1

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Sounds to me like you had a short between your coil and the SS mesh less that half way between the positive and negative. I did this on my AGA-T2 using my eVic; similar error the eVic will say "No atomizer found". I figured out eventually that my coil was too tight and that I didn't have enough oxidization on the coil to stop the shorts. In short more oxidization and less wire tension on the coils helped me resolve the issue 4/5 30 AWG Kanthal #400 SS = 1.6 Ohm in my case.

I have it working, but I think I wrapped the coils way too tight I need to get a syringe to get the juice out and see if I can loosen them a little.
 

weisner

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Getting a head rush from Nicotine!

It doesn't seem like I'm getting a ton of vapor, but I'm definitely getting a lot of Nicotine.

LOL, I know the feeling.

I usually roll my SS around a paperclip, it helps with wicking; air must displace juice as the juice leaves the tank. I don't like to leave the fill hole uncovered as I have had leak problems in the past.

I don't know if this will help you but, I can hope.

My experiments with drunker and AGA as recorded so far:
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/tips-tricks/389456-tinkerers-mod-rebuild-fail-success.html
 

michaelsil1

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LOL, I know the feeling.

I usually roll my SS around a paperclip, it helps with wicking; air must displace juice as the juice leaves the tank. I don't like to leave the fill hole uncovered as I have had leak problems in the past.

I don't know if this will help you but, I can hope.

My experiments with drunker and AGA as recorded so far:
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/tips-tricks/389456-tinkerers-mod-rebuild-fail-success.html

I wrapped the wick around a paper clip the first wick I rolled was a wicking beast, however I rolled it too tight and it was very loose in the hole.
 

eratikmind

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When I realized that it was a low ohm issue I went from 4/3 32awg to 6/5 32awg and still got the error it wasn't until I moved the coils around that the amount of ohms came up and worked. This is a little frustrating I didn't see anything about this particular issue in any of the tutorials I guess they weren't using a ProVari.

One thing, which I have learned, is that if a coil is properly wrapped, I can work out the hot spots with a bit of patience. Eventually, they work. I hope that with enough playing around with it, I can get it going much faster.

- Andy . . . Embrace the day.
 

Krism

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I wrapped the wick around a paper clip the first wick I rolled was a wicking beast, however I rolled it too tight and it was very loose in the hole.

A solid wick with the bottom cut at an angle works really well I have never had wicking issues doing it this way. Also tension on the coil wire is super key to avoid the hot spots. If the hot spot is at the top of the coil going to the center post there is a easy way to resolve.


just wrap your coil as usual and then when you wrap the wire around the center post go all the way around until you get to the wire leg going back to the wick. Then put your last nut on the center post to secure the wire. once it is secure use the excess wire to wrap around the wire going back to the wick two times and snip of the rest. This extra wire will conduct the current much better at the top eliminating the hot spot. Then crank it up and use a small flat head to play with the wire (without touching the wick) until the center wires glow first then the bottom and top coils when this happens for at least 5-6 consecutive power pulses then you should be good to go. click the link below to see mine set up. Hope this helps:) BTW this is wrapped 30awg A1 Kanthal im getting around 1.1-1.2 ohms

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...8159-aga-t2-trial-error-coils-wicks-image.jpg

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...8251-aga-t2-trial-error-coils-wicks-image.jpg
 
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weisner

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Just wrap your coil as usual, then when you wrap the wire around the center post go all the way around until you get to the wire leg going back to the wick. Then put your last nut on the center post to secure the wire. Once it is secure use the excess wire to wrap around the wire going back to the wick two times and snip of the rest. This extra wire will conduct the current much better at the top eliminating the hot spot. Then crank it up and use a small flat head to play with the wire (without touching the wick) until the center wires glow first then the bottom and top coils when this happens for at least 5-6 consecutive power pulses then you should be good to go.

This is the first time anyone has mentioned that, brilliant I'll be attempting that on my next build and see if it helps If so I may attempt to do so on the Bottom as well. This would have the effect of turning 7 wraps to 6 but may also end up with a more stable build. Neat.
 

Krism

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This is the first time anyone has mentioned that, brilliant I'll be attempting that on my next build and see if it helps If so I may attempt to do so on the Bottom as well. This would have the effect of turning 7 wraps to 6 but may also end up with a more stable build. Neat.

Your right it reinforces the weak links, my coils last twice as long now. I haven't tried it on the neg post but I have never had a hot neg leg on this atty yet. Plus using this 30awg in need the extra resistance lol.:toast: TGIF
 

thxone

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Something I learned... I usually hold the wick in my right hand and wrap the coil around it with my left... Just for kicks I decided to hold the wick in my left and wrap with my right which makes the coils go the other direction... no more hot spots and now I can make the "S" with the legs on the top and bottom. Food for thought.

Edit: I always wrap from the bottom of the coil to the top.
 

michaelsil1

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I finally got a syringe burned off all the juice from the wick 400ss re-wrapped the coil 32awg got all the coils to glow evenly came in @ 1.5 Ohms and took a vape. Its not a cloud monster, but it tastes good and has a decent amount of vapor. VICTORY! :D

I'm still waiting on some 500ss and 30awg I'll see if I can get it better with that.
 
Here's some of the things I've learned with aga t2 on the provari: 28g wire... needs 7 or 8 wraps to fire over 3v. With more wraps, they must be closer together. Careful not to overtighten as it will hurt wicking and possibly bite through your oxidized layer. The 28g is more stable, little or no problems with hot spots if wrapped properly. The drawback... very slow response (heat up time) You will need to take primer puffs while it heats up to produce enough vapor. 32g wire... Can wrap this with less tension more easily, more space between the coils, and get a proper resistance for the provari. At 4 or 5 wraps, you can kick up the voltage to get yourself to around 10 watts, and the response time is GREATLY improved over the 28g. Bigger chance of hot spots on the positive or negative leads. I very much prefer the thinner wire, greater spacing across the wick, and less wraps. 34g may be even better.. have yet to try. I will save this 28g wire for when I build for unregulated mods.
 

Nocturin

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A solid wick with the bottom cut at an angle works really well I have never had wicking issues doing it this way. Also tension on the coil wire is super key to avoid the hot spots. If the hot spot is at the top of the coil going to the center post there is a easy way to resolve.


just wrap your coil as usual and then when you wrap the wire around the center post go all the way around until you get to the wire leg going back to the wick. Then put your last nut on the center post to secure the wire. once it is secure use the excess wire to wrap around the wire going back to the wick two times and snip of the rest. This extra wire will conduct the current much better at the top eliminating the hot spot. Then crank it up and use a small flat head to play with the wire (without touching the wick) until the center wires glow first then the bottom and top coils when this happens for at least 5-6 consecutive power pulses then you should be good to go. click the link below to see mine set up. Hope this helps:) BTW this is wrapped 30awg A1 Kanthal im getting around 1.1-1.2 ohms

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...8159-aga-t2-trial-error-coils-wicks-image.jpg

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...8251-aga-t2-trial-error-coils-wicks-image.jpg

I tried this yesterday with 32g NiCr (the wrapped pos lead) and it didn't work out too well for me. I wasn't able to get it wrapped around itself well enough, I think. It did stop the hot pos. lead from actually reaching the positive post though.

This is the first time anyone has mentioned that, brilliant I'll be attempting that on my next build and see if it helps If so I may attempt to do so on the Bottom as well. This would have the effect of turning 7 wraps to 6 but may also end up with a more stable build. Neat.

Here's some of the things I've learned with aga t2 on the provari: 28g wire... needs 7 or 8 wraps to fire over 3v. With more wraps, they must be closer together. Careful not to overtighten as it will hurt wicking and possibly bite through your oxidized layer. The 28g is more stable, little or no problems with hot spots if wrapped properly. The drawback... very slow response (heat up time) You will need to take primer puffs while it heats up to produce enough vapor. 32g wire... Can wrap this with less tension more easily, more space between the coils, and get a proper resistance for the provari. At 4 or 5 wraps, you can kick up the voltage to get yourself to around 10 watts, and the response time is GREATLY improved over the 28g. Bigger chance of hot spots on the positive or negative leads. I very much prefer the thinner wire, greater spacing across the wick, and less wraps. 34g may be even better.. have yet to try. I will save this 28g wire for when I build for unregulated mods.

Ribbon wire :D.

Can someone help me figure out what this extra holes/post is for? An extra photo of my setup from the side. Not bad for my 4th coil ever :D. Tried it on a nova-head first, it must of took me a good 2 hours to get the SS wick rolled and coiled into the head. The AGA was much easier to coil with all types of wire.

agat2 1.jpgagat2 2.jpg
 

weisner

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"Can someone help me figure out what this extra holes/post is for? An extra photo of my setup from the side. Not bad for my 4th coil ever . Tried it on a nova-head first, it must of took me a good 2 hours to get the SS wick rolled and coiled into the head. The AGA was much easier to coil with all types of wire."
~ Nocturin

The other ground screw is the filler cap, the post with a hole in it is the ground post for doing a silica or other alternate builds. Looking pretty good I must say.
 
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