All new Kanger Bottom coiled EVOD, coming soon to gotvapes.com !! pics within

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zipflint

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Much as I like the Evod (AND the T3, I guess I'm one of the lucky ones that hasn't had any problems with leaks, and I only get minimal gurgling) I still want a clear version. I thought maybe the mini T3 would be essentially that, but the base/coil assembly is more like a T3. I like the slightly warmer draw on the Evod.

I also lament the current state of the CE3. I was happy using those on the 808-threaded devices that smokless image sells, until the CE3s became a total crapshoot with leaks and burnt coils. That's what initially drove me to 510 devices.
 

zippersnapper

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An airy draw is very simple to fix on any clearmizer. You just need to plug up one of the air holes with a tiny piece of Teflon plumbers tape. Take a tiny little piece roll it up into a ball, take a needle and push it into the air hole.

OR you can use a solid core adapter:
eGoAdaptor_zpsc1343d5e.jpg



They seem to tighten up the draw for me anyway...
 
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rdsok

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hey zipper, got them in, and yeah they are fragile as hell lol

Cool !! yeah, gotta be careful !!!!...Tell Danno I need a hook up !!

If you two are reffering to what I believe you are... I picked up 3 and they seem pretty stout. If I understood correctly, these were suppose to be kiln fired before I got them. I also wrapped my coil outside of the tank atomizer
 

WallyO

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If you two are reffering to what I believe you are... I picked up 3 and they seem pretty stout. If I understood correctly, these were suppose to be kiln fired before I got them. I also wrapped my coil outside of the tank atomizer

Mine are still sittin in the tube. Had em for four days now and just have not found the time to play around yet.
 

yiddleboge6

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i have a questio, you know hamster or rabbit feeders
the water stay at the tip until sucked on and it doesnt leak
there isnt a flap
so if we used the same principal and had that touching the wick area, wouldn that fee it as we use it

My dog drinks from one of those water bottles. after being filled and turned upside down you need to squeeze the bottle to squirt out some water and create a vacuum? at the top. There is a steel ball in the end of the tube and the action of their tongue pushing against that ball releases the water as they drink. I'll leave it to you guys to figure out how to make that work for vaping :D
 

WallyO

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Just couldn't help yourself could ya... weren't you going to quit playing with alternate wicking materials just the other day :D

Absolutely rdsok.:facepalm: But that was the standard run of the mill mesh. This is too cutting edge to just ignore. The worst that could happen....it ends up in the box with the mesh. I have high hopes that I will be much happier with this. Probably not, but I gotta at least try it.
 

badkolo

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harmonic

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ah i have that last one too. when the water in the dish drops below the opening of the upsidedown bottle it lets a burp of air into the bottle which then lets some water get out. the outgoing water then refills the dish over the top of the bottle recreating the vacuum seal keeping the rest of the water in. poke a hole in the bottle however or if any air can get in at all then it all just floods out...
 

zippersnapper

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i have a questio, you know hamster or rabbit feeders
the water stay at the tip until sucked on and it doesnt leak
there isnt a flap
so if we used the same principal and had that touching the wick area, wouldn that fee it as we use it

My dog drinks from one of those water bottles. after being filled and turned upside down you need to squeeze the bottle to squirt out some water and create a vacuum? at the top. There is a steel ball in the end of the tube and the action of their tongue pushing against that ball releases the water as they drink. I'll leave it to you guys to figure out how to make that work for vaping :D

Yeah, its the ball bearing in the end that's keeping the water from just draining out..

I'm going to let yall in on a little secret to these ceramic wicks..The community has pretty much agreed that the thickness is just to thin (fragile wise) to be a valid delivery wick. A "through hole" design is being perfected by Scubabatdan as I type this.
20130202_154820_zps55b39221.jpg


This design is much more desirable because you no longer have to "wrap" your wick. Instead, you make your coil on a drill bit, then insert into the doghouse.

We are now at the stage, where this design is flawed because once again, the wick is so very thin and fragile. Dan has now made a 1/4" wick, and again, uses the "doghouse" method. The reason of course, the resistance would go out the window trying to wrap a coil with such a circumference.

By having a large wick, you eliminate the "fragileness" but by having a 3/32 "through hole" in it, you still have proper resistance, not to mention the coil completely surrounded by juice.

Problem #3...Readily available RBA's have the wick hole to close to the center positive post to keep from drilling them out to this diameter.. Dan of course makes his own Addy's, and have custom made one to accept a 1/4" hole. If this design proves successful, then the whole community will be up ended. I repeat: Nothing is as true to juice flavor as vaping off of a ceramic stone. It just needs to be perfected, and the fragile nature eliminated. Some are studying a new type of ceramic, which is much harder. Problem with ceramic is: Hardness leads to less pores..less pores means less wicking effect. Its a fine line were dealing with here..
 
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harmonic

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not just the ball bearing zip but surface tension of the water too and the vacuume is need also. crack the bottle and it drains out. and the ball bearings just rattle in the tube so its not a tight seal either. one little shaving in the cage brushes the end and the surface tension is broken and it starts leaking....
 

WallyO

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Yeah, its the ball bearing in the end that's keeping the water from just draining out..

I'm going to let yall in on a little secret to these ceramic wicks..The community has pretty much agreed that the thickness is just to thin (fragile wise) to be a valid delivery wick. A "through hole" design is being perfected by Scubabatdan as I type this.
20130202_154820_zps55b39221.jpg


This design is much more desirable because you no longer have to "wrap" your wick. Instead, you make your coil on a drill bit, then insert into the doghouse.

We are now at the stage, where this design is flawed because once again, the wick is so very thin and fragile. Dan has now made a 1/4" wick, and again, uses the "doghouse" method. The reason of course, the resistance would go out the window trying to wrap a coil with such a circumference.

By having a large wick, you eliminate the "fragileness" but by having a 3/32 "through hole" in it, you still have proper resistance, not to mention the coil completely surrounded by juice.

Problem #3...Readily available RBA's have the wick hole to close to the center positive post to keep from drilling them out to this diameter.. Dan of course makes his own Addy's, and have custom made one to accept a 1/4" hole. If this design proves successful, then the hole community will be up ended. I repeat: Nothing is as true to juice flavor as vaping off of a ceramic stone. It just needs to be perfected, and the fragile nature eliminated. Some are studying a new type of ceramic, which is much harder. Problem with ceramic is: Hardness leads to less pores..less pores means less wicking effect. Its a fine line were dealing with here..

Geez. Way to burst my bubble Zip. I didn't even get to try mine yet.
 

zippersnapper

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By all means Wally..if you get it coiled and in your tank unbroken, then the vape is bliss...it really is supurb. I cranked out another 15 yesterday and today....broke three during the process, ground the skin off of the tip of my "twisting" finger till it bled, and spent 4 1/2 hours doing it.

The work is tedious to make these....Just have to find a better way...
 
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