Nice work, I also picked up an A7 to play with, I'll have to try this trick out.
Anyone try the A7 RBA ?? Will it fit?
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Nice work, I also picked up an A7 to play with, I'll have to try this trick out.
Some pics to show mod fix in progress.
This is how it looks when purchased. Center screw is loose, turns and moves easily.
Putting the strip of condom in. Screw is sticking out past bottom.
Screw is still sticking out past connector bottom. Ring inserted.
Finished. Screw is stable. Now flush with bottom, no movement.
This is how it looks when purchased. Center screw is loose, turns and moves easily.
Putting the strip of condom in. Screw is sticking out past bottom.
Screw is still sticking out past connector bottom. Ring inserted.
Finished. Screw is stable. Now flush with bottom, no movement.
Thank you, Nerak! The pictures really helped!
Now, would anyone happen to have any advices on drilling the A7? I've dulled 3 bits so far and only got half way through. Had to wait for overheated drill to cool off too. I'm starting to wonder if "A" in "A7" stands for adamantium?
Now, would anyone happen to have any advices on drilling the A7? I've dulled 3 bits so far and only got half way through. Had to wait for overheated drill to cool off too. I'm starting to wonder if "A" in "A7" stands for adamantium?
Use wd40 as a refrigerant, spray the bit and keep doing every few seconds it until you are done, then wash your atty very well.
Uuh, I found a small problem in this method of stabilizing the positive connection screw.
It cuts off any air supply from the bottom. So, unless you drilled the side of your atty to be like the reomizer, this doesn't seem to work
Unless I did something wrong
It cuts off any air supply from the bottom. So, unless you drilled the side of your atty to be like the reomizer, this doesn't seem to work
Unless I did something wrong
Uuh, I found a small problem in this method of stabilizing the positive connection screw.
It cuts off any air supply from the bottom. So, unless you drilled the side of your atty to be like the reomizer, this doesn't seem to work
Just leave a small gap in the ring of condom. It will let air through. With a thin piece of the condom used I have no problem with the air intake. Mine is like my picture and I have not noticed a difference. The air hole is above the condom piece and not covered.
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Thank you!
Not sure why I didn't think of that I ended up cutting a small (1/8") length of silicone feeder tube I had left from my mod making, and fitting it over the threaded part of the screw. Doesn't make it quite as tight as the condom method, but it works. I'll have to try your way again next time I take it apart.
Not sure why I didn't think of that
I ended up cutting a small (1/8") length of silicone feeder tube I had left from my mod making, and fitting it over the threaded part of the screw. Doesn't make it quite as tight as the condom method, but it works. I'll have to try your way again next time I take it apart.
Any type of oil will work too, even cooking oil using a brush. Apply oil to the drill, then drill a few slivers and repeat. It's called pecking.
A cobalt drill bit goes through it pretty easily, you can pick up up for under three-bucks.
Jack
Jack
Just took apart a CE2, hoping I could mod the A-7 with what Techno posted, but the one I have doesn't have the needed silicone sleeve in it. Oh well....
You're absolutely right. First was High Speed Steel. Then came Cobalt, which works best on Stainless Steel. Then came Carbide
(expensive but worth it) , which is superb on everything. We machine a lot of aluminum, alloy steel and stainless and use Carbide on everything. Carbide inserts, end mills, drills, reamers, etc. last a very long time on aluminum. However, Carbide requires a very rigid set-up and not normally for home use.
Good call, cobalt is the bit to get as they will take a bit of lateral stress without breaking, a tungsten carbide bit in a hand drill or a cheap home drill press is a broken bit waiting to happen...I'm still confused why the side hole isn't offered as an option for the A7...it literally takes a pretty good cheap RBA and makes it a great RBA...I just got another one and decided to do a side by side with one of my side air's...it's night and day...and because the guts screw out hole alignment isn't an issue, drill it where ever you want, just rotate the guts to suit...
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Hadn't thought about rotating the guts. Great observation Quigs. Now I don't have to worry about which side of the posts center-line I put the coil. I seem to get more flavor with the coil close to the side hole in lieu of between the posts.
I also build on one side of the posts, 1. it's so much easier to do, and 2. it opens up an adjustment a center coil doesn't give you...the ability to move your coil closer to/away from your air hole changing the vape/TH/flavour...even though I know it's most likely serendipity, the makers could claim that's the real reason why they made the center post adjustable...it least I would
Hi Guys; Happy New Year! I'm ready to roll my sleeves up and start modding my A-7
New A-7 - Check
A-7 disassembled and washed in hot soapy water; then for a soak in Isopropyl alcohol- Check
Wooden dowel to put inside of the A7 to keep its shape while in the vise/drilling- Check
Carto condom to stabilize center post- Check
Now.. I just need drill bits and Buna-n o-rings to seal the base. The smallest cobalt drill bit at Lowes was 1/16", but there is a Grainger down the street from my work, so I'm going to order a few tomorrow. It looks like Grainger has a great selection of Buna-n o-rings too. I think what Rob sells for the Reomizer are just a little bit too thin.
What o-ring size works the best- maybe just a hair thicker than the Reomizer o-ring?
What size cobalt drill bits are optimal?
New A-7 - Check
A-7 disassembled and washed in hot soapy water; then for a soak in Isopropyl alcohol- Check
Wooden dowel to put inside of the A7 to keep its shape while in the vise/drilling- Check
Carto condom to stabilize center post- Check
Now.. I just need drill bits and Buna-n o-rings to seal the base. The smallest cobalt drill bit at Lowes was 1/16", but there is a Grainger down the street from my work, so I'm going to order a few tomorrow. It looks like Grainger has a great selection of Buna-n o-rings too. I think what Rob sells for the Reomizer are just a little bit too thin.
What o-ring size works the best- maybe just a hair thicker than the Reomizer o-ring?
What size cobalt drill bits are optimal?
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I found that instead of o-ring, I slip a 1/8" wide band cut from a carto condom over the bottom of the atty and then screw it onto the Reo. It seals the whole catch cup and prevents pocket lint from gathering there.
No idea on the bits. If they have them, I'd go with 1mm and then start enlarging the hole with a dremel until you're happy. A lot of people seem to like 1/16" airhole, though
I also build on one side of the posts, 1. it's so much easier to do, and 2. it opens up an adjustment a center coil doesn't give you...the ability to move your coil closer to/away from your air hole changing the vape/TH/flavour...even though I know it's most likely serendipity, the makers could claim that's the real reason why they made the center post adjustable...it least I would
I'm still working on drilling the airhole (good god, it's slow going), but...
The center coil can still be adjusted as to how far/close from the air intake it is. I just raise or lower it. That little of an adjustment doesn't create hotspots on the legs of the coil.
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