Arlo - dual 18650 DNA20/30 step-by-step how-to

[Steamer861]

Well That sucks! As mamu all ready posted the chip still works I know it will be uncomfortable with out a screen but still can be used
I have to say the screen set up is not well thought out the little ribbon cable is way to fragile
The screen should be on the board like the new china chips just IMO
When it comes to my vaping gear or juice money never enters my mind Analogs are real expensive here in Canada I was spending 100.00
a week on them not to mention how much better I feel
Happy Mothers Day to all the Mothers

Not any more! I was just finishing it off, tidying up the wiring, and the epoxy accidentally came loose, and the dna flew off, but he screen didn't - OUCH. I was trying to use as little epoxy as possible - big mistake. Lesson learned.

Look at it this way: I woulda spent more going out on a Saturday night.

In a couple of weeks, I have learned a tremendous amount about electronics, soldering, and myriad other topics.

Thank you, mamu, this tutorial made that possible, as it was the core of my learning experience thus far.

 

[ccv1]

Well That sucks! As mamu all ready posted the chip still works I know it will be uncomfortable with out a screen but still can be used
I have to say the screen set up is not well thought out the little ribbon cable is way to fragile
The screen should be on the board like the new china chips just IMO
When it comes to my Vaping gear or juice money never enters my mind Analogs are real expensive here in Canada I was spending 100.00
a week on them not to mention how much better I feel
Happy Mothers Day to all the Mothers

Agreed, mine works flawlessly aside from not having a working screen. Just remember 10 clicks = 1 watt. I hold the down button for about 20 seconds and figure that gets me close to 7 watts. I then click up from there. Or If you wanted to go to the upper end hold the up button for 20 seconds you should be close to 30 watts.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Kataphraktos]

I have 1 chip left, and 3 more on the way. I understand the choice of ribbon - to give manufacturers flexibility on screen placement. But a better design would be a ribbon connector on the board, and the ribbon plugs into the connector. This way, a torn ribbon means you just buy a new screen. Or, better yet, ribbon connectors on both ends, and sell replacement ribbons.

 

[Steamer861]

Well no Screen but it's Alive Rocking a dual coil @ .7 ohms My BF Arlo Works Well
I sent an email to Steve at Evolv I will see what they say I'm confident they will replace the DNA30 and I will eventually have a Perfect
BF Arlo

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[moflicky]

Well no Screen but it's Alive Rocking a dual coil @ .7 ohms My BF Arlo Works Well

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The white looks much nicer than I imagined. and a squonker to boot! nice.

 

[Aal_]

Well no Screen but it's Alive Rocking a dual coil @ .7 ohms My BF Arlo Works Well
I sent an email to Steve at Evolv I will see what they say I'm confident they will replace the DNA30 and I will eventually have a Perfect
BF Arlo

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That looks beautiful. You must be proud. Hopefully it won't be much trouble replacing the dna with the new one. I would hate to destroy it and remake it again

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[Steamer861]

The squonk hole on my Arlo looks a little rough is there any way I can get a bezel like the dna screen one made? does anyone know how I would go about getting this done? any help would be greatly appreciated

 

[mamu]

Maybe one of bap's voltage reader frames would fit? I think the opening of the frame is around 24mm x 14mm.

Volt Meter Housing by bapgood on Shapeways

 

[Kataphraktos]

I am thinking of making a squonker sometime, how about some U-channel edge molding?

I think the stuff I linked is probably too thick, but there should be slimmer versions out there.

Edit: perhaps something like this would work:

U Channel EPDM Rubber Edge Trim For 22 Gauge Metal HR 69N SOLD BY THE FOOT

 

[Proetus]

Did you possibly get juice on the board? I fried my original 20 with a KFL had a leak out the 510. These chips have a problem meeting juice! It showed similar issues, stuck at 20 watts, fire mode locked etc.

 

[Steamer861]

Thanks again mamu I missed that one the other volt meter housing by bapgood is the perfect length just a little to narrow he has all the measurements there for that one The one you linked to looks better but the exact measurements for the opening are not in the description
the squonk hole in the Reo door is 22mm by 17mm 24mm by 14mm will by close enough

Maybe one of bap's voltage reader frames would fit? I think the opening of the frame is around 24mm x 14mm.

Volt Meter Housing by bapgood on Shapeways

 

[Steamer861]

The volt meter housing will match the dna screen bezel a lot better giving it a more uniform look Thanks for the reply

I am thinking of making a squonker sometime, how about some U-channel edge molding?

I think the stuff I linked is probably too thick, but there should be slimmer versions out there.

Edit: perhaps something like this would work:

U Channel EPDM Rubber Edge Trim For 22 Gauge Metal HR 69N SOLD BY THE FOOT

 

[Steamer861]

If this is directed at me no I did not my issues came up rite away just shortly after the mod was completed I thought about the chance of a leak ruining the board but with my Reos there is never any leaking from the bottle just from the air hole in the atty if I over squonk

Did you possibly get juice on the board? I fried my original 20 with a KFL had a leak out the 510. These chips have a problem meeting juice! It showed similar issues, stuck at 20 watts, fire mode locked etc.

 

[moflicky]

Quick question for anyone who wants to field it:

My next DNA is going to use that triangular charging bank mentioned earlier - this guy:

5V 1A 3X 18650 Battery USB Charger Case BOX Mobile Power Bank FOR Cellphone MP3 | eBay

My question is this - how many of the ground wires on the DNA can be attached to a common ground?

I've screwed a threaded rod up through the center of the battery box that will serve a dual purpose - with a cap nut on the top, it will hold the top onto the battery box, and it will serve as a handy common ground to solder all my negative connections to wherever they might be in the box - or at least as many as I can.




As you can see, I've put a copper top cap to cover the usb and led holes in the top of the battery bank, and the common ground threaded rod will protrude through the center with a washer and cap nut, so the copper would be grounded - and unless I insulate it, the negative of the 510 would also be grounded to the common.

I would like to get away with not insulating it (or the rod/nut) if I can, thus my question:

If I use the basic wiring diagram of the Arlo, how many of the black wires can be common grounded? In other words, do I have to keep the battery negatives separate from the 510 negative?

thanks in advance!

 

[Proetus]

I think all the traces for the ground are common. I am pretty sure Mikepetro used a common ground on his weekender mod. Dig thru that thread it is discussed in there.

 

[moflicky]

I think all the traces for the ground are common. I am pretty sure Mikepetro used a common ground on his weekender mod. Dig thru that thread it is discussed in there.

Awesome! Thanks Proetus! I found that discussion and my thoughts were confirmed. I was pretty sure most of it could be common, but I wasn't sure about the 510.

So, if I solder the center rod and the 510 to the copper top plate, that should make that ground connection just fine and all I need is a positive connection to the 510.

 

[JohnnyDill]

I like the idea of that central grounding spine. It will minimize wiring runs & any voltage loss.

 

[Kataphraktos]

If this is directed at me no I did not my issues came up rite away just shortly after the mod was completed I thought about the chance of a leak ruining the board but with my Reos there is never any leaking from the bottle just from the air hole in the atty if I over squonk

Out of curiosity, what did you use for the bottom feeder 510? I have a few ideas, but I'm continuing to research.

 

[Steamer861]

I used a regular 510 from Mad Vapes soldered into an old Nemesis top cap and the bottom feeder parts from a Reo rebuild kit
You can get a rebuild kit from Rob at Reomods it has the hollow pin with the insulator the tube and the bottle
the way it works is the hollow pin has a threaded end and there is a connector that screws in and the tube slides over
this is were Rob's firing pin connects and is a good place to solder your positive 510 wire using a piece of the Reo firing pin
The connector at the end of the hollow pin has to be tightened or it will leak in your mod easily done with a pliers and screw driver
I drilled out the nemesis top cap and soldered in the 510 for the flat surface cause you need an o ring between the atty and 510 connector so it does'nt leak when you squonk

Out of curiosity, what did you use for the bottom feeder 510? I have a few ideas, but I'm continuing to research.

 

[Kataphraktos]

I used a regular 510 from Mad Vapes soldered into an old Nemesis top cap and the bottom feeder parts from a Reo rebuild kit
You can get a rebuild kit from Rob at Reomods it has the hollow pin with the insulator the tube and the bottle
the way it works is the hollow pin has a threaded end and there is a connector that screws in and the tube slides over
this is were Rob's firing pin connects and is a good place to solder your positive 510 wire using a piece of the Reo firing pin
The connector at the end of the hollow pin has to be tightened or it will leak in your mod easily done with a pliers and screw driver
I drilled out the nemesis top cap and soldered in the 510 for the flat surface cause you need an o ring between the atty and 510 connector so it does'nt leak when you squonk

Cool, thanks! I was thinking of using the same parts from the Reo rebuild kit with a Fat Daddy 510.