Arlo - dual 18650 DNA20/30 step-by-step how-to

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Steamer861

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No Problem I'm sure there are other ways to do it I had the Reo rebuild kit here so I just used it :)
Bogger Box web site has a pre made bottom feed 510 but they were out of stock


Cool, thanks! I was thinking of using the same parts from the Reo rebuild kit with a Fat Daddy 510.
 
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Kataphraktos

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No Problem I'm sure there are other ways to do it I had the Reo rebuild kit here so I just used it :)
Bogger Box web site has a pre made bottom feed 510 but they were out of stock

Alas, Bogger Box is no more - and he left a lot of folks out in the cold with paid-for but undelivered products.
 

Steamer861

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So I finally got another DNA30 From Ireland of all places I'm still waiting for my returns from Evolv
My Arlo works great well kind of :(
I took a short cut and used the original battery spring and positive terminal that came with the plastic box
Now At 15 watts and below it works perfectly if i go over 15 Watts the chip restarts on long drags
The higher i go on the watts the faster it restarts
I have read on the forums that issue is caused by the voltage at the dna's battery terminals drops below the threshold at which it can operate.
Could this be because of the battery spring and + terminal I used? (short cut I took)
It's not a battery issue I tried freshly charged VTC5's and also connected to usb
Thanks Again for all the helpful post in this thread and a Big Thanks to mamu :)
 

mamu

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With the DNA stopping and re-starting itself it's telling you it's current starved and not able to deliver the power at the watts you have set.

The battery contacts that come with Arlo, and in fact most all battery contacts that come with these cases and battery boxes, are pure crap - they have high contact resistance and not able to handle any kind of amp load, so they absolutely have to be replaced with battery contacts that have low contact resistance like the Keystone contacts.

You'll also see this with some of the lower quality battery sleds - the contacts are horrible with high contact resistance. Bap has a thread here where he measured the contact resistance with some of these battery sleds. Interesting results and definitely an eye opener with "do not use these in your mod".

If you recall Ohms Law - resistance is inversely proportional to current. The higher the resistance the more impedance to current flow. It's like taking a water hose and bending it in half (increased resistance) - it's extremely difficult to get water (current) to flow through and past that bend. Or like taking a water hose and cutting the diameter in half (increased resistance) - it's more difficult to get the same amount of water (current) through the teeny tiny water hose vs the water hose with the larger diameter.

We want our regulated converters to get the current they need to operate correctly and to get that current as fast as they need it. This is why we do everything we can to eliminate, or at least reduce since you can't totally eliminate, resistance in our circuits - such as using electronic parts that have low internal resistance, appropriately sized wiring gauge, batteries with low internal resistance, and battery contacts with low contact resistance.
 
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Hardemyr

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So I finally got another DNA30 From Ireland of all places I'm still waiting for my returns from Evolv
My Arlo works great well kind of :(
I took a short cut and used the original battery spring and positive terminal that came with the plastic box
Now At 15 watts and below it works perfectly if i go over 15 Watts the chip restarts on long drags
The higher i go on the watts the faster it restarts
I have read on the forums that issue is caused by the voltage at the DNA's battery terminals drops below the threshold at which it can operate.
Could this be because of the battery spring and + terminal I used? (short cut I took)
It's not a battery issue I tried freshly charged VTC5's and also connected to usb
Thanks Again for all the helpful post in this thread and a Big Thanks to mamu :)

I had the same problem, returned it to evolv.
I haven't got it but I know they send it back.

Pain to get it out from the mod! Hate them a little because of that ;-)
 
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mamu

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I had the same problem, returned it to evolv.
I haven't got it but I know they send it back.

Pain to get it out from the mod! Hate them a little because of that ;-)

If you had the same problem as Steamer, nothing is going to change when you get the replacement DNA.

If the DNA doesn't get the current it needs to run at a certain power level, it will stop and re-start. That's not a faulty DNA, but a problem with current getting to the DNA. And this is usually caused by high resistance in the circuit somewhere (most common culprit is low quality battery contacts), or you're trying to use a single 18490 or 18650 battery at higher watts setting, or the battery is near its cutoff voltage for that power setting.
 

Hardemyr

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If you had the same problem as Steamer, nothing is going to change when you get the replacement DNA.

If the DNA doesn't get the current it needs to run at a certain power level, it will stop and re-start. That's not a faulty DNA, but a problem with current getting to the DNA. And this is usually caused by high resistance in the circuit somewhere (most common culprit is low quality battery contacts), or you're trying to use a single 18490 or 18650 battery at higher watts setting, or the battery is near its cutoff voltage for that power setting.

Hi mamu!

Well yes and no, about the problem is the same or not.
My mod did not fire at higher wattage, it reset the screen and it started over again.

I took out the turnigo 1200 mah battery and connected the chip to an fresh battery in a keystone holder, same issue.
That's was the deal breaker for me, it has to be a faulty dna chip.

Before a did the check with a 18650 fresh In a keystone, I change out the lipo 4 times because a thought I had a bad solder or bad contact because you don't use a holder with turnigo nanotech 1200.

I was furious! ;-)
 

Ragecc

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So I got mine all together but have a problem. I can't get the positive side of the batterys to make contact. During the process of trying to get a connection scratched the battery coating off and vented a battery in my living room. If I run a jumper wire holding it with my hand everything works. Vtc5 battery's if that helps. Any ideas?
 

Steamer861

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Thank You Again mamu I have no problem with Evolv I sent in a kick2 that stopped working after a few months and they replaced it
It's just my location here in Canada to ship some thing to the US it takes 2 weeks and the same amount of time to get it back

took out the turnigo 1200 mah battery and connected the chip to an fresh battery in a keystone holder, same issue.
That's was the deal breaker for me, it has to be a faulty dna chip.
Hardemyr if your chip was indeed defective Evolv will come good :) It is the most you can expect from any one after all no one nothing is perfect and someone who stands behind there product after the sale is Good in my book
 

mamu

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YW, Steamer. Evolv definitely has super great customer service.


So I got mine all together but have a problem. I can't get the positive side of the batterys to make contact. During the process of trying to get a connection scratched the battery coating off and vented a battery in my living room. If I run a jumper wire holding it with my hand everything works. Vtc5 battery's if that helps. Any ideas?

I had this happen with my flat top batts with my Sam mod.

If you can't remove the positive contacts from the case to do this, do it very carefully while they are in place inside the case.

Scruff up each contact (I use the dremel to do this). Apply flux to each contact (I use a round toothpick to apply the flux to the contact), then apply a layer of solder to the contact. Just kinda swirl the soldering tip around so you get a nice circular layer of solder on the contact.

This raises the contact so it will make better contact with the flat top batt. You may have to do a few layers to get the height raised enough.

If you do this with the contacts inside the case - be very careful you don't apply heat from the soldering iron too long else you'll melt the plastic in that area. The plastic can take some heat without warping, but not a lot.
 

mamu

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LOL Steamer - you crack me up :D

Good job!!

Thanks Mamu for the fast response. I can remove them and do that. On the SMD fuses are they supposed to be soldered on the ends with the notch or the wide sides without?

The notched ends have the solder contacts. If you're doing parallel fuses - align and hold both ends of the fuses together (I use tweezers), apply a dab of flux, then solder - do the same for the other end. Then solder a wire to each end.
 
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JohnnyDill

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