Arlo - dual 18650 DNA20/30 step-by-step how-to

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mamu

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great paint job, Mturner!

You can put what I call a "bumpie" :laugh: on the positive batt contacts. Scruff up the positive contact a bit, apply flux, then solder. If you hold the soldering iron tip a bit flat on the surface of the contact and swirl it around on the contact while applying solder the solder will melt into a nice smooth round bump.
 

JohnnyDill

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Thanks! It's really just a bunch of stuff I had left over from old jobs. Silver is diamont from a Nissan Titan with a coarse silver flake from house of kolor mixed in. The candy is rm carizzma and clear is diamont dc92. Sprayed with an airbrush so I had to over reduce the clear to make it work.

Crazy good paint color. Looks like paint on a bass boat! :toast:
 
Hey Mamu:

I have a question about the 3A fuses... You stated in the build instructions that for a dna 30 you need to install two (2) 3A fuses in parallel on each positive battery contact... What do you mean exactly when you say "parallel"? Do you solder one end of one fuse, to one end of the other such that the fuses are in a straight line, or do you somehow solder both ends of one fuse to both ends of he other so that they are one on top the other? I am going to try your build with a dna 30 and I don't want to mess the fuses up and install them in series instead of in parallel..

Thanks
 

Steamer861

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parallel is positive to positive negative to negative

Hey Mamu:

I have a question about the 3A fuses... You stated in the build instructions that for a dna 30 you need to install two (2) 3A fuses in parallel on each positive battery contact... What do you mean exactly when you say "parallel"? Do you solder one end of one fuse, to one end of the other such that the fuses are in a straight line, or do you somehow solder both ends of one fuse to both ends of he other so that they are one on top the other? I am going to try your build with a DNA 30 and I don't want to mess the fuses up and install them in series instead of in parallel..

Thanks
 
parallel is positive to positive negative to negative

Thank you... That's what I figured, but its been a while since I took EE 101 (Electrical Engineering 101) in college, and couldn't quite remember, so I figured I'd ask before I built the damn thing and it blows up on me because I had the fuses in series instead of parallel. lol:laugh:
 
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Steamer861

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In Canada Radio Shack is called The Source
here's what I used nice one solid stand copper wire :)
ONE-CONDUCTOR SOLID HOOK-UP WIRE | Bulk Cable | Ratings & Reviews | TheSource.ca


Hello:

Got another dumb question.. Where did you get the 20 & 24 gauge wire from? Is it a specific type of wire, if so, what type? Is it something I can pick up at Lowes, Homedepot or Radio Shack? Is this the type I want to get:

20 Gauge Black: NTE 25-Ft. 300V 20AWG Stranded Wire - 90° C (Black) : Hookup wire | RadioShack.com

24 Gauge Blue: NTE 25-Ft. 300V 24AWG Stranded Wire - 90° C (Blue) : Hookup wire | RadioShack.com

Thanks again.
 

mamu

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Hey Mamu:

I have a question about the 3A fuses... You stated in the build instructions that for a DNA 30 you need to install two (2) 3A fuses in parallel on each positive battery contact... What do you mean exactly when you say "parallel"? Do you solder one end of one fuse, to one end of the other such that the fuses are in a straight line, or do you somehow solder both ends of one fuse to both ends of he other so that they are one on top the other? I am going to try your build with a DNA 30 and I don't want to mess the fuses up and install them in series instead of in parallel..

Thanks

As Steamer said, positive to positive negative to negative.

Fuses have no polarity though so just stack the two fuses with ends matching and solder the two ends on each side together.

2 smd fuses soldered together in parallel and 2 leaded fuses soldered together in parallel...
fuses-parallel.jpg
 

Mturner262

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great paint job, Mturner!

You can put what I call a "bumpie" :laugh: on the positive batt contacts. Scruff up the positive contact a bit, apply flux, then solder. If you hold the soldering iron tip a bit flat on the surface of the contact and swirl it around on the contact while applying solder the solder will melt into a nice smooth round bump.

Wow, thanks mamu! I do body and paint for a living so that was the easy part, now if I can just fumble my way through the things you make look so easy I'll be vaping this thing in no time. I will try the bumpie later on, that's a good idea. Thanks also for making this walk through, not sure I would've attempted a DIY without it, now I have 7 more dna30's to build after I cut my teeth on this one.
 

Mturner262

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Crazy good paint color. Looks like paint on a bass boat! :toast:

Thanks man! I was worried about mixing the flake in the base like that but it showed through nicely. Usually you would base it then spray the flake on top in a mid coat then candy but I was trying to keep the film build as low as possible. It is beautiful in the sun but can't really get a pic to do it justice.
 

Ghostrider

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So I have an idea but need help finding the right part. If left unattended for several days, the DNA30 will drain the batteries dead as there is no on/off switch. I would like to add an "on/off" switch, something small and not easily pressed on accident. Where would I wire it in and what switch would be good for that?
 

Kataphraktos

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So I have an idea but need help finding the right part. If left unattended for several days, the DNA30 will drain the batteries dead as there is no on/off switch. I would like to add an "on/off" switch, something small and not easily pressed on accident. Where would I wire it in and what switch would be good for that?

One thing to note: if the DNA30 loses power, it resets. This means that, if you had locked it, it will "forget" this when you re-establish power, and power up unlocked. It will, per my experience, remember the last power setting.
 
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