Aromamizer RDTA by Steam Crave

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Chris863

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Anyone who runs a single coil on this please post some pics. I have some 430 SS that Im dieing to try but only in 22G and 28G... the 28G is way too thin and springy. The 22G which I want to use has such low resistance that a dual coil for me with it isnt imaginable. For 0.2 ohm it would be like 20+wraps for each coil (3mm)... I know I asked the same type question a few pages back but got varying responses. Do I plug 2 of the 4 holes to run single? Also what on the deck needs to be filled with cotton.

Thank You Ive never converted a dual coil atty to single before, need someone to hold my hand here and walk me through it step by step.
 

cigatron

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Anyone who runs a single coil on this please post some pics. I have some 430 SS that Im dieing to try but only in 22G and 28G... the 28G is way too thin and springy. The 22G which I want to use has such low resistance that a dual coil for me with it isnt imaginable. For 0.2 ohm it would be like 20+wraps for each coil (3mm)... I know I asked the same type question a few pages back but got varying responses. Do I plug 2 of the 4 holes to run single? Also what on the deck needs to be filled with cotton.

Thank You Ive never converted a dual coil atty to single before, need someone to hold my hand here and walk me through it step by step.

For what mod? Temp controlled?
 

cigatron

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Anyone who runs a single coil on this please post some pics. I have some 430 SS that Im dieing to try but only in 22G and 28G... the 28G is way too thin and springy. The 22G which I want to use has such low resistance that a dual coil for me with it isnt imaginable. For 0.2 ohm it would be like 20+wraps for each coil (3mm)... I know I asked the same type question a few pages back but got varying responses. Do I plug 2 of the 4 holes to run single? Also what on the deck needs to be filled with cotton.

Thank You Ive never converted a dual coil atty to single before, need someone to hold my hand here and walk me through it step by step.

Here's a dual coil build with 22g 430ss that should work good for 100w and up. Your xcube 2 can handle res down to .06 ohms. Shouldn't have any probs running this .1 ohm build.

Coil wrapping | Steam Engine | free vaping calculators
 
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stormjib

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Turned my vertical build into a horizontal one. I'm liking this better.
horiz.jpg
 

Chris863

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Here's a dual coil build with 22g 430ss that should work good for 100w and up. Your xcube 2 can handle res down to .06 ohms. Shouldn't have any probs running this .1 ohm build.

Coil wrapping | Steam Engine | free vaping calculators

Thanks Cigatron. Yeah I need to get comfortable vaping at that super low ohm. So far this 430SS seems better than 304 and 316L no doubt. Can only imagine the performance I could get in the Aromamizer. I think Ive asked this before but about titanium there isnt any risks to the batteries or to the mod going so low of an ohm with SS? I just read some battery safety stuff before(but this was a long time ago)and think I saw with Samsung 25Rs you shouldnt go below 0.2 ohm, but that must of been for Mech Mods. I got to remember I have a regulated mod I just dont want to lose a hand lol. Guess only the Mech Guys have to seriously worry about battery safety and if you have a regulated box only thing you need to concern yourself with is making sure the battery wraps dont have no tears and the insulator ring is intact on the button tops... Sorry for the elementary type question but only been vaping with Mods and doing rebuildables for 9 months and the stuff coming out the past 3 or 4 months has been moving so fast, hard to keep up!
 

KenD

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Thanks Cigatron. Yeah I need to get comfortable vaping at that super low ohm. So far this 430SS seems better than 304 and 316L no doubt. Can only imagine the performance I could get in the Aromamizer. I think Ive asked this before but about titanium there isnt any risks to the batteries or to the mod going so low of an ohm with SS? I just read some battery safety stuff before(but this was a long time ago)and think I saw with Samsung 25Rs you shouldnt go below 0.2 ohm, but that must of been for Mech Mods. I got to remember I have a regulated mod I just dont want to lose a hand lol. Guess only the Mech Guys have to seriously worry about battery safety and if you have a regulated box only thing you need to concern yourself with is making sure the battery wraps dont have no tears and the insulator ring is intact on the button tops... Sorry for the elementary type question but only been vaping with Mods and doing rebuildables for 9 months and the stuff coming out the past 3 or 4 months has been moving so fast, hard to keep up!
Resistance doesn't factor into amp draw on vw mods. Watt setting and battery charge level (lower voltage, higher drain) do. The formula is:

Watts / battery charge level = amps

For example:

60w / 4v = 15 amps
60w / 3v = 20 amps

Add around 10% to the amp draw to account for current lost due to circuitry inefficiency.

As you see, you should base the calculations on the battery cutoff voltage rather than on the voltage of a fully charged battery. So the opposite of calculating amp draw on a mech.

Sent from my M7_PLUS using Tapatalk
 

jcash74

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Ok, first thing, I'm ssuming that those coils are Kanthal and twisted 24g not 26g. The numbers for 7wraps twisted 26 don't work out in SE but 24g does. See link here.
Coil wrapping | Steam Engine | free vaping calculators

The heat flux for that build at 70w is very low, too low imo to keep the coil temps up for proper vaporization. What's happening is the juice is just barely reaching boiling temps and the heat isn't quite high enough to completely vaporize the incoming juice. That makes things very very hot because your not getting the cooling effect of full evaporation.

Turning the airflow down to help raise coil temps would normally help some on other tanks but the Aroma would probably flow too much juice and oversaturate the coils even more. You could try drawing easier to reduce airflow without drawing too much juice in but with those verts the air has trouble hitting the backside of the coils and could overheat and go burny there. So with that build and a firm draw you would need to turn power up to the 125-150w range to get proper vaporization.

If you're set on having twisted verts I'd try 30g. See link for build specs.Coil wrapping | Steam Engine | free vaping calculators
At 70w this build will ramp up quickly and even though the heat flux numbers are much higher the coils, tank and drip tip will stay cooler because of the higher evaporation rate. The added bonus is this build should produce a much more dense and flavorful vapor.
Yes it's kanthal but it is 26ga kanthal. I don't understand how the numbers are off. I did 7 wraps (I'll double check) on my coil master for each coil and the device shows .25 ohms. I'll turn up the power and see if it gets better. Thanks for the link and the explanation!

Sent from my SM-N910W8
 

Caterpiller

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Oh my...

That does make sense, but this new knowledge is already hurting my head.

I've been vaping a dual coil 0.42 ohms 26g build (not one of my normal 28g builds) at 26 watts and finding it a little warm but not great vapor or flavour.

I've just turned it up to 34 watts and it does seem a little cooler and better vapour production [Scratches head]


Edit: I should mention that this build is on my Goblin Mini.
 

jcash74

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I have it at 100 watts now. Works good, flavors good. Same with 125 watts.
5da97944e5bf396ad3dfd93df2a771b9.jpg

The cotton isn't darker on top this time, but the left coil looks slightly darker than the right. I think I'll just try a regular 26ga or 22ga dual coil next time and see what happens.
Thanks again!

Sent from my SM-N910W8
 
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cigatron

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Oh my...

That does make sense, but this new knowledge is already hurting my head.

I've been vaping a dual coil 0.42 ohms 26g build (not one of my normal 28g builds) at 26 watts and finding it a little warm but not great vapor or flavour.

I've just turned it up to 34 watts and it does seem a little cooler and better vapour production [Scratches head]


Edit: I should mention that this build is on my Goblin Mini.

I have it at 100 watts now. Works good, flavors good. Same with 125 watts.
5da97944e5bf396ad3dfd93df2a771b9.jpg

The cotton isn't darker on top this time, but the left coil looks slightly darker than the right. I think I'll just try a regular 26ga or 22ga dual coil next time and see what happens.
Thanks again!

Sent from my SM-N910W8

Haha, yes, getting the coil temp up high enough to completely vaporize the juice helps cool things down. It's works just like the cooling effect we get from sweat evaporating from our skin in a breeze ie. the conversion of liquid to a vapor creates a cooling effect.

To find the perfect wattage of a new build or a new juice on an existing build I keep turning up the power until I detect a slight burny edge to the vapor, then turn it down until the flavor pops.

There is bonus to complete vaporization too, extended wick life and dryburn intervals. Less gunking.
 
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