Okay ill try that if im still having troubles ill try the 26g. Can you post the build data for that to? Thanks!
Here you go @BagelMx .
Coil wrapping | Steam Engine | free vaping calculators
Okay ill try that if im still having troubles ill try the 26g. Can you post the build data for that to? Thanks!
cigatron, do you do TC?
If yes, what would you build with 26g SS to use on a RX200?
Anyone who runs a single coil on this please post some pics. I have some 430 SS that Im dieing to try but only in 22G and 28G... the 28G is way too thin and springy. The 22G which I want to use has such low resistance that a dual coil for me with it isnt imaginable. For 0.2 ohm it would be like 20+wraps for each coil (3mm)... I know I asked the same type question a few pages back but got varying responses. Do I plug 2 of the 4 holes to run single? Also what on the deck needs to be filled with cotton.
Thank You Ive never converted a dual coil atty to single before, need someone to hold my hand here and walk me through it step by step.
Yes I do tc on all my atties once I figure out how they act with kanthal first. What type of ss are you interested in using?
Anyone who runs a single coil on this please post some pics. I have some 430 SS that Im dieing to try but only in 22G and 28G... the 28G is way too thin and springy. The 22G which I want to use has such low resistance that a dual coil for me with it isnt imaginable. For 0.2 ohm it would be like 20+wraps for each coil (3mm)... I know I asked the same type question a few pages back but got varying responses. Do I plug 2 of the 4 holes to run single? Also what on the deck needs to be filled with cotton.
Thank You Ive never converted a dual coil atty to single before, need someone to hold my hand here and walk me through it step by step.
cigatron, do you do TC?
If yes, what would you build with 26g SS to use on a RX200?
Here's a dual coil build with 22g 430ss that should work good for 100w and up. Your xcube 2 can handle res down to .06 ohms. Shouldn't have any probs running this .1 ohm build.
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Resistance doesn't factor into amp draw on vw mods. Watt setting and battery charge level (lower voltage, higher drain) do. The formula is:Thanks Cigatron. Yeah I need to get comfortable vaping at that super low ohm. So far this 430SS seems better than 304 and 316L no doubt. Can only imagine the performance I could get in the Aromamizer. I think Ive asked this before but about titanium there isnt any risks to the batteries or to the mod going so low of an ohm with SS? I just read some battery safety stuff before(but this was a long time ago)and think I saw with Samsung 25Rs you shouldnt go below 0.2 ohm, but that must of been for Mech Mods. I got to remember I have a regulated mod I just dont want to lose a hand lol. Guess only the Mech Guys have to seriously worry about battery safety and if you have a regulated box only thing you need to concern yourself with is making sure the battery wraps dont have no tears and the insulator ring is intact on the button tops... Sorry for the elementary type question but only been vaping with Mods and doing rebuildables for 9 months and the stuff coming out the past 3 or 4 months has been moving so fast, hard to keep up!
Most mods now are 95% efficiency or higher, but the 10% does give you a little safety overhead.Add around 10% to the amp draw to account for current lost due to circuitry inefficiency.
Yes it's kanthal but it is 26ga kanthal. I don't understand how the numbers are off. I did 7 wraps (I'll double check) on my coil master for each coil and the device shows .25 ohms. I'll turn up the power and see if it gets better. Thanks for the link and the explanation!Ok, first thing, I'm ssuming that those coils are Kanthal and twisted 24g not 26g. The numbers for 7wraps twisted 26 don't work out in SE but 24g does. See link here.
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The heat flux for that build at 70w is very low, too low imo to keep the coil temps up for proper vaporization. What's happening is the juice is just barely reaching boiling temps and the heat isn't quite high enough to completely vaporize the incoming juice. That makes things very very hot because your not getting the cooling effect of full evaporation.
Turning the airflow down to help raise coil temps would normally help some on other tanks but the Aroma would probably flow too much juice and oversaturate the coils even more. You could try drawing easier to reduce airflow without drawing too much juice in but with those verts the air has trouble hitting the backside of the coils and could overheat and go burny there. So with that build and a firm draw you would need to turn power up to the 125-150w range to get proper vaporization.
If you're set on having twisted verts I'd try 30g. See link for build specs.Coil wrapping | Steam Engine | free vaping calculators
At 70w this build will ramp up quickly and even though the heat flux numbers are much higher the coils, tank and drip tip will stay cooler because of the higher evaporation rate. The added bonus is this build should produce a much more dense and flavorful vapor.
Oh my...
That does make sense, but this new knowledge is already hurting my head.
I've been vaping a dual coil 0.42 ohms 26g build (not one of my normal 28g builds) at 26 watts and finding it a little warm but not great vapor or flavour.
I've just turned it up to 34 watts and it does seem a little cooler and better vapour production [Scratches head]
Edit: I should mention that this build is on my Goblin Mini.
I have it at 100 watts now. Works good, flavors good. Same with 125 watts.![]()
The cotton isn't darker on top this time, but the left coil looks slightly darker than the right. I think I'll just try a regular 26ga or 22ga dual coil next time and see what happens.
Thanks again!
Sent from my SM-N910W8