Ask IMAGINE & S_Steve - Thread :)

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opal

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they can work in any 808/510 carto/clearo/atty they are standard drip tip size.

um.. except they don't in the nanos and T2s. I do have one in the new mini clearo, it's just not quite as snug as the original tip.

kudo's btw.. BF order has shipped and is due Monday
*lightning speed shipping*
 

Imagine

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they all work with the MVP except the T3bdc and the ce5....the iclear 16 will give you the full range of the mvp though up to 5 volts is fine with the iclear.
Imagine;

Is the new Aspire line going to work well with the MVP2 ?? If so, which one ??
 

opal

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Ok Imagine.....How do you fill all these new fangled clearomizers? The old T3 was filled upsidown from the bottom.....most others filled from the top......Maxi? Mini Vivi Nova? ET? (these are the ones I have ordered) :confused:Thanks in advance!

there's a whole new drop down category for heads.. found it this morning - I think in the cartomizer drop down

crap.. can't delete post.. mis read it.. thought you wanted to FIND the heads on site.. then after I posted saw the word was FILL
duh
 

marlou

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Hi Imagine. I have a question for you, but need to give you the background first.

Today I received my MVP and there is a problem with the 808 threads. I submitted a ticket saying that and to further explain I related that my T3s and X2 clearos will screw on and register ohms on the MVP. None of my cartos or other clearos will screw all the way on and won't register ohms. The two iclears in the MVP kit will register ohms but the extra iclear I ordered will not.

The person who answered my email concluded that there is a problem with the clearomizers and is sending me replacements. The problem is with the threading on the MVP, and I emailed back to explain again.

So while I'm waiting for an answer I wondered if you know of any reason for this problem. I had a mini T3 already filled and it works fine. I tried other T3s and X2 clearos (empty) and the iclears in the kit and they went on and registered ohms on the MVP. Nothing else will work because they won't go on all the way. The ego cone threads seem to be okay, it's the 808 threads that are not right. Oh, also, the threads feel smooth, I don't notice any burrs.
 

Imagine

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If the new Clearos do not work we can of course exchange the MVP
Hi Imagine. I have a question for you, but need to give you the background first.

Today I received my MVP and there is a problem with the 808 threads. I submitted a ticket saying that and to further explain I related that my T3s and X2 clearos will screw on and register ohms on the MVP. None of my cartos or other clearos will screw all the way on and won't register ohms. The two iclears in the MVP kit will register ohms but the extra iclear I ordered will not.

The person who answered my email concluded that there is a problem with the clearomizers and is sending me replacements. The problem is with the threading on the MVP, and I emailed back to explain again.

So while I'm waiting for an answer I wondered if you know of any reason for this problem. I had a mini T3 already filled and it works fine. I tried other T3s and X2 clearos (empty) and the iclears in the kit and they went on and registered ohms on the MVP. Nothing else will work because they won't go on all the way. The ego cone threads seem to be okay, it's the 808 threads that are not right. Oh, also, the threads feel smooth, I don't notice any burrs.
 

charlzrocks

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Ok Imagine.....How do you fill all these new fangled clearomizers? The old T3 was filled upsidown from the bottom.....most others filled from the top......Maxi? Mini Vivi Nova? ET? (these are the ones I have ordered) :confused:Thanks in advance!


......BUMP......(still need the info!)
 

marlou

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If the new Clearos do not work we can of course exchange the MVP

Thanks, Imagine. I received an email this morning telling me that's what is being done.

It just seemed so odd that a few of my clearos did work. I had hoped there might be something I could have done to correct the problem with the threads, but it's probably better to just do an exchange. These things happen, but I know SI always takes care of it.

Anyway, thanks again to SI for bringing us this great mod with 808 threading!
 

Dac311

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Cool - the other stuff I sanded down and polished (EVOD parts, beauty rings) were all brass whenever there was a very thin coat of copper. But I guess I'd better order another batt while it's on sale, just in case I kill this one...:unsure: :laugh:

Can you share with me how you would do that? Is there anyway to make the regular stainless ones look like bushed satinless? I have a polished stainless that's pretty scratched up. Every time I get a stainless one it scratches quickly. Anyway to either polish it down to brass or make it looked brushed?


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cindycated

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Can you share with me how you would do that? Is there anyway to make the regular stainless ones look like bushed satinless? I have a polished stainless that's pretty scratched up. Every time I get a stainless one it scratches quickly. Anyway to either polish it down to brass or make it looked brushed?


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I just wet-sand them down from coarse (220) to super-fine (1000-2000) grit (and everything in between; not dripping wet), then rubbing compound. I only know how to go from dull to shiny. Sorry.

I would imagine it's just a matter of scuffing it up with sandpaper (it's the fine scratches that make it look dull/brushed), but you'd have to get your strokes pretty straight and I've never been very good at that. To make it look brushed, just don't go too fine on the sandpaper (maybe stop at 400-600). By the time you get to 1000 grit, you're polishing. If the tube's just plated, you risk the chance of going too deep and exposing some copper. Then you might as well go all the way down to brass (I haven't seen any solid copper yet - whenever I've seen copper, it's brass underneath a super thin layer of copper). But if it's solid SS under the finish, then you're in luck (and I'm not).

I'm hoping the batt tube is solid brass, lightly coated with copper, plated with SS, then painted with whatever. The stuff that I've sanded down so far have been either SS or brass underneath the finish. My EVODs came out really cool: polished SS barrel with polished brass trim (top ring at mouthpiece and base). And now I'll have to deal with the patina that forms on brass from handling. :grr: But I don't care - I still want a polished brass Spinner! :laugh:
 
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