Is there any bellcap/way to shorten the KFM3 or the KFM3 Plus?
I've seen many of your posts about your problem with the resistance..I have the one from 3fvape (silver). I have the same problems. Resistance is crazy diff on my rx200 to my Pico. Way diff when I'm testing the build before I wick it. It's been torn apart and checked. It's driving me crazy....my girlfriend already thinks I'm obsessive about perfecting builds and wicking and this is not helping my case. LoL The builds are not even coming out to what they are supposed to. Don't have this problem with my KF5. The builds are right where they are supposed to be. Did you find a solution? Or can anyone else chime in with suggestions? Or am I just screwed. Just got this thing a week ago.I looked at the reviews on the black one I got from FT and they all said that the coating is the reason for the resistance issue. I looked at my black Tobeco and it doesn't have any coating under the 510 part so I sanded down the parts on the FT version but haven't tried it yet.
It shouldn't leak, no matter how open the juice control is. You don't have a good seal. Check the o-rings. A good test is to remove the deck and place the tank on the palm of your hand. Press down to seal it, suck on the drip tip and then block it with your tongue. It should stick to your tongue until you break the seal.
….I have the one from 3fvape (silver). I have the same problems. Resistance is crazy diff on my rx200 to my Pico.
I did do that. Removed the air flow pin like others have. 28g Kanthal. 7 wraps 2.5 ID. Update the resistance does not flux on a mod after the build when using. Pico- 1.47 ohms RX 200-1.61. Old Kanger 50 watt- no reading at all. Yet the kanger reads a Nautilus mini and the KF5. ??? Could it be the 510 on the KF3??Might be worth removing the base and stripping it down completely for a wash and a soak…the innards of these clones sometimes have metal shavings stuck somewhere…maybe it's messing with your readings. The one the i had resistance fluctuations it was due to a stripped out 510 screw.
I can turn my tank upside down, fill it with water and turn it back over, and the water stays in the tank even with no deck on it!!! The seal holds the liquid in unless you turn it on its side. Of course there are other variables, like too much suction in the evaporation chamber.I replaced all the o-rings on this one with excellent Taiwan made NB70 o-rings….it passed the test you describe.
I can only imagine opening the jfc two turns in my clone lets in more juice than the deck can handle and it comes out through the air holes….ever since I started using the one turn, I don't get any leaking.
I replaced all the o-rings on this one with excellent Taiwan made NB70 o-rings….it passed the test you describe.
I can only imagine opening the jfc two turns in my clone lets in more juice than the deck can handle and it comes out through the air holes….ever since I started using the one turn, I don't get any leaking.
Multiple people have reported issues with the JFC of this particular model. See here: Juice flow doesn't seal properly - floods and leaks on refill: FastTech ForumsInteresting observation about my KF V3 Plus 1.5
$20.88 Kayfun V3 Plus 1.5 Styled RTA Rebuildable Tank Atomizer - 3.2ml / 316 stainless steel + glass / 22.5mm dia. at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping
If I open the JFC two turns it's too much…starts flooding and leaking through the air holes….if I make just one turn, it's fine. The tolerances on these china clones are all a bit whack sometimes.
Multiple people have reported issues with the JFC of this particular model. See here: Juice flow doesn't seal properly - floods and leaks on refill: FastTech Forums
What power level do you vape that build at? I doubt you would find a Clapton wire small enough to give you a similar vape. Clapton wires have a lower resistance and would require more power/airflow to perform efficiently.Anyone try Clapton wire in the v3 mini?
Wondering if it would be even better than my stock kanthal builds.
If i run my normal kanthal 28g on 2.5mm with 8 wraps @ 1.3
What would i run clapton wire too see similar vapes?
Just had this discussion about my KF5 and fused Claptons...at low watts the ramp up time is to long for me..I like to fire and vape on it...to compisate with higher wattage for shorter ramp up leaves the chamber very hot due to the fact that it takes a long time to cool down the coil. With such a small chamber it stays hot for a while. I have not tried regular Claptons maybe slightly diff situation....try twisting 28g wire seems to be the middle ground of the two. If you get a 6 wrap it should =.7 ohms / 5 wrap=.6 ohms. But....that changes your whole vape...or try SS316L but you will only be able to use it in temp control cuz you would want to cool the vape at a .4ish build.....tried stuffing all crazy stuff in there when I first got my KF3Mini. I settled down to a nice 28g 1.2 ohm build on a 2mm ID coil. Happy with that...Thx, so I'm guessing clapton wire is not for a mtl vaper in these kayfuns. I vape at around 15watts with 1.3ohm coil.
I do prefer a cool maybe warm vape not hot. So clapton wire not for me?
Excellent, can i ask what your build is to get to 1.5ohms using Clapton wire. I prefer around 1.1 - 1.2 ohms so intereset to hear what coil diameter/wraps is working for you. ThxI use clapton coil around 1.5ohms, and vape around 16 watts, I buy premade clapton wire from lightning vapes, does use a bit more juice, but the flavor is worth it though.
Excellent, can i ask what your build is to get to 1.5ohms using Clapton wire. I prefer around 1.1 - 1.2 ohms so intereset to hear what coil diameter/wraps is working for you. Thx
BTW- this kayfun v3mini is an absolute flavor machine, vaping on it is fantastic, I'm extremely impressed so far, and I've only tried a simple kanthal coil, so the experimentation begins now to find the best coil setup for me. Thx for any input folks.