Attack of the (Kayfun Mini V3) Clones!

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nilesong

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I'm new to building coils, and just built my first coil in the mini v3 last night. I watched a YouTube video and thought I did everything right, but when I first press the fire button, there is a huge popping sound. After the initial pop, there are smaller popping sounds as well, just not as loud. The coil is 1.4 ohms and I'm at 12-14 watts. Is there anything that comes to mind that would cause that?

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ricks

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I just received a mini v3 clone from fasttech today. 510 pin was too short to thread in but I was able to fix it. Got it all cleaned up only to discover the positive block screw will not tighten down due to poor machining. It's a shame because the rest of the machining looks top notch. I have never received a clone of any kind that worked properly, I must have bad luck. Into the clone graveyard it goes :nah:
Check to see if they gave you screws that are too small... Do you have other screws from other tanks to try???
 

Lavaca5

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I'm new to building coils, and just built my first coil in the mini v3 last night. I watched a YouTube video and thought I did everything right, but when I first press the fire button, there is a huge popping sound. After the initial pop, there are smaller popping sounds as well, just not as loud. The coil is 1.4 ohms and I'm at 12-14 watts. Is there anything that comes to mind that would cause that?

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That's normal. Your juice will pop when it heats up sometimes. Usually means you need more wick running through your coil. Should be thick enough to offer some resistance when pulled, but not so much resistance that it moves / bends the coil. Try a thicker wick going through the coil, then thin the wick tails before tucking them back into the juice well.


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Mechx

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Check to see if they gave you screws that are too small... Do you have other screws from other tanks to try???

The other screw tightens down nicely. I have that small screws from my old kayfun lite and they are slightly too big. I contacted fasttech and they offered me a replacement so that's cool.
 

ricks

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The other screw tightens down nicely. I have that small screws from my old kayfun lite and they are slightly too big. I contacted fasttech and they offered me a replacement so that's cool.
I've seen tanks from FT that came with screws that were too small. It was like they ran out of the correct ones and just threw in the smaller ones just to get them out...
 

Kyi

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Hey y'all. I know this question has probably been answered a bazillion times and I have tried searching the thread and I don't really have the patience to sift through 155 pages but... how do you fix leaking on this tank?? Mine leaks from the airholes and pools around the bottom of the base. It's pretty annoying. I've tried changing the O rings and tightening the screws and closing the juice control when adding juice and not leaving the juice control too open... nothing seems to be doing it. Any tips?? Love this tank other than the constant slow leak trickle.
 

Cumulo Vapus

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Hey y'all. I know this question has probably been answered a bazillion times and I have tried searching the thread and I don't really have the patience to sift through 155 pages but... how do you fix leaking on this tank?? Mine leaks from the airholes and pools around the bottom of the base. It's pretty annoying. I've tried changing the O rings and tightening the screws and closing the juice control when adding juice and not leaving the juice control too open... nothing seems to be doing it. Any tips?? Love this tank other than the constant slow leak trickle.

no harm trying this….when its time to refill….close off the jfc before taking the tank off…then take a few hits with the jfc closed…I do about 4-5 double hits….this soaks up any excess juice that is lingering in the juice wells and dries it out.

if you take off the cap without doing this, air pressure from above might drive that excess liquid into the air holes.

I read this tip here….and since I do it, never had any issues.

Also make sure you lube the 2 orings on the barrel of the deck before attaching the tank as that halls them move smoothly and create a seal.
 

Maestro

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Hey y'all. I know this question has probably been answered a bazillion times and I have tried searching the thread and I don't really have the patience to sift through 155 pages but... how do you fix leaking on this tank?? Mine leaks from the airholes and pools around the bottom of the base. It's pretty annoying. I've tried changing the O rings and tightening the screws and closing the juice control when adding juice and not leaving the juice control too open... nothing seems to be doing it. Any tips?? Love this tank other than the constant slow leak trickle.
Constant leaking is always caused by a poor seal. I can put water in my tank, hang it by the drip tip and it will stay in the tank without the deck on it!!

Remove the tank from the deck and place the open end in the palm of your hand and press it down. Suck in on the drip tip and put your tongue against it. Your tongue should stick and make audible pop when you finally pull it off. If it doesn't do that, then you don't have a good seal. It's either the o-rings on the glass or the o-rings on the top cap. There are 2 of them, one outside and one inside. Make sure they're both there.
 

rifky

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I replaced all the o-rings on this one with excellent Taiwan made NB70 o-rings….it passed the test you describe.

I can only imagine opening the jfc two turns in my clone lets in more juice than the deck can handle and it comes out through the air holes….ever since I started using the one turn, I don't get any leaking.
Where you buy the that O ring?
 

Gabor L

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Nov 5, 2016
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Hi,
anybody know the size of these o-rings?
Thanks a lot!
v3_mini.png
 
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TrollDragon

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I managed to fix my Kayfun V3 Plus 1.5 that wouldn't fully close to fill. What was happening was the threads on the chimney were bottoming out on the shoulder of the base section just past the bottom o-ring. This would not allow the deck to extend far enough to fully close off the juice flow.

I took a carbide tool and removed the edge off of the chimney's first thread closest to the opening. That stopped it from hitting the o-ring shoulder on the base and now it closes off completely.

I put a 2.5mm 28g SS430 10 wrap coil in it, wicked with Rayon and filled it. Opened the JFC 1 turn and it is vaping as good as anything that has a similar tight draw would. I can now fill it without it flooding but the airflow is still way too restrictive for me. It's really too bad that I have moved on past the Kayfun 4, Rose V2 and KFL type of RTAs as they are much more frugal with the juice consumption. Unfortunately the vapor density just doesn't cut it for me on those RTAs now.

I'll wash it and put it away, happy that it finally works now, but I will never use it.
 

King_Louie

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Mar 4, 2014
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Hey everybody. Sorry if this has already been talked about but i got some stuff for this thread!

I owned an authentic kayfun mini v3 for a very long time. It was my favorite tank. Unfortunately the positive deck screw hole got stripped and i sold it for parts. But ive been missing it, and i ordered a tobeco clone.

It just got in today, it is very similar in quality to the original. In fact, really the only difference i can see is the engravings are pretty obviously less quality than the authentic, but i could care less about that personally. Its functioning great! Not to mention, the screws seem BETTER on this tobeco clone than the original. I mean the screws on the deck you trap wire under, they seem slightly wider and flatter.

I cannot speak for the other clones (yet) but the tobeco is really good compared to authentic. Mine came in a tobeco box so i know it is a genuine tobeco product.

I do have 1 issue, if you could call it that. The Juice flow control is actually very smooth, too smooth. There was always a satisfying resistance on the JFC on the authentic, i could screw it down fully onto a mod without moving the JFC. Now, on this tobeco clone, if i give it the sightest nudge in either direction it moves like butter. I am hoping to make the JFC a little tighter, would this be an O-ring problem or something to do with the threads?

Ill make sure i dont scare off potential buyers here- the JFC is not LOOSE. It works fine. I just would rather it be a little harder to turn than too easy. my mod lives in my pocket alot, i move around and drive around alot during my day. I just dont want to accidentally close it and get dry hits or accidentally open it and spill juice.

Its not a deal breaker, but something i wouldnt mind jury-rigging a bit. I was either going to get an authentic or more clones based off how i felt about this clone i ordered, and i can realistically see myself ordering 2-3 more of these instead of an authentic now, especially if i solve this tiny issue i have with it.

If anyone has any experience with this issue im having i would greatly appreciate any advice you could give me. And if youre on the fence about getting a clone, i highly recommend tobeco!
 

Vinnybagodoughnuts

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It's most likely an oring issue. They do seem to tighten up a bit over time. At least mine have. You can try replacing one or both of the rings under the jfc if it's really loose. Always remember to lube them when you rebuild.:)
I still love my KF3 minis!
Hi,
anybody know the size of these o-rings?
Thanks a lot!
v3_mini.png

Gabor L
Top O-Ring 7x1mm
Bottom O-Ring 9x1mm (can try 7x1,5mm)
These are the ones I speak of. Good luck!
 

SKYYcamel

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So I've been trying to build a new KFMV3 clone I had lying around. I built a coil that comes out to 1.6 on my other KFMV3 clones and I'm having a problem. No matter what I try, I'm getting low ohm readings and atomizer short messages on my mod. Nothing's touching the deck and the build looks clean. What could it be? Like I said, this same build works like a charm on my others.
 
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