I actually just tried loosening that nut and it seems to have fixed it (fingers crossed). Thanks Maestro and Vinny for the tips!
Attack of the (Kayfun Mini V3) Clones!
- Thread starter KTMRider
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I am looking for a few more k3 minis. Any vendors in the States have them? Just checking! Google fu is lacking today.
EDit: it looks like ebay is my only choice.
EDit: it looks like ebay is my only choice.
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Sudden disappearance of flavour from my KF Mini Plus 1.5 after introducing a new coil.
Using 3mm ID 30gauge, simple spaced coil at 1.7 ohms
Coil is about 2-2.5mm above the air intake.
Should i lower it? Use smaller diameter e.g. 2.5mm or use less cotton?
Using 3mm ID 30gauge, simple spaced coil at 1.7 ohms
Coil is about 2-2.5mm above the air intake.
Should i lower it? Use smaller diameter e.g. 2.5mm or use less cotton?
Lowered the coil a bit and there was marginal improvement….next time I'll do a 2.5mm coil.
Curious, why not just revert back to the build you had previously?
Obvious issues, 3mm @.30g, and mounted a bit on the high side. That is not much surface area to fully vaporize the liquid on that fairly large piece of wick.
id gone from 2.5 to 3mm in my merlin and it works well there
so i thought it might work better in this one too.
Went back to 2.5 and the flavour is better now
so i thought it might work better in this one too.
Went back to 2.5 and the flavour is better now
I bought two Kayfun Mini V3 clones awhile back from FT, or maybe 3F. I can't remember the original supplier anymore. Both have the entwined "SM" logo on the chimney and drip tip. I can't remember the SKU #s. One is stainless steel. The other is black and stainless steel. The build quality of both appeared to be pretty good.
I only recently just started using them after spending quite awhile playing around with the Mini Goblin V3, Serpent Mini, and Augvapes Merlin. All 3 of those tanks always had leak issues which I was never fully able to resolve - though I loved the velocity style build deck two of them had, and I loved the 4ml juice capacity of the Merlin! They were all very easy to build on, but difficult to do a good MTL build on that consistently vaped well. I used airflow restriction devices in two of those tanks, which seemed to maybe restrict airflow too much? The build decks were also actually maybe a bit too large to work on for MTL purposes, though many MTL vapers swear by those tanks. I'm new to building, so the fault was probably with me - except for maybe the regular leak issues.
I had a problem with the black Kayfun Mini V3 never running, always showing "no atomizer" on my mods, or never showing a resistance reading on my Coil Master 521 mini. I finally resolved that issue by using a dremel tool to remove the black finished steel from the inside (non-visible side) of the 510 connector plate. I didn't have to remove all of the finish, just about 2-3mm worth from around the 510 pin hole on the inside of the plate. The finish did not appear to be paint, but may have actually been something like a nitride finish (a good, tough finish now commonly used on a lot of firearm parts), which was difficult to remove just using steel wool. I would not recommend buying a black finished Kayfun Mini V3 unless you are willing to mess with it like that in order to get it working for you. Both tanks now run fine.
I chain vape, so I'm looking to get good advice on coil setups that will work best for that. I wick with rayon, which can also be challenging, though I think I'm finally getting a little better at it. I stuff the coil until the rayon can barely move back and forth easily, and does so with an audible little squeak, then trim the tails some, but I'm always unsure about how much I should be trimming. I do get dry hits sometimes, using 70/30 VG/PG juice, with the juice flow opened up about 2-3 full rotations. Currently I'm using wide open airflow. I do chain vape regularly, so I tend to keep wattage levels below 10W, often as low as 7W, depending on what resistance coil I'm using.
I've done 2.5 and 3mm inner diameter builds, between 1.2 to 1.8 ohms, using SS316L and regular kanthal, spaced and not spaced. I think I prefer using 26 or 28 gauge kanthal. The SS316L requires inner coil diameters and coil wrap numbers that I just don't think work as well on the small Kayfun Mini V3 deck. Coil distance from air hole will range from 1-2mm. People here seem to prefer a 2.5mm inner diameter coil, with 3mm not appearing to work as well, but some seem to like a 2mm ID as well. I tried using 32 gauge double twisted kanthal, but had trouble consistently securing the coil leads to the deck. I may try 30 gauge double twisted in the future. I also tried some SS316L temp control builds as well, but I don't think the Kayfun Mini V3 is well suited for that.
I like the Kayfun Mini so far. It delivers pretty darn good flavor, has decent vapor production, doesn't appear to leak, and is fairly forgiving to build on. I only wish it had a larger juice capacity, but it is pretty easy to refill, so that is a minor complaint. I want to make the best use of the tank for my particular style of vaping (chain vaping), which I don't think I've achieved yet, so any advice you folks have to help me improve my builds would be much appreciated. Thank you in advance.
I only recently just started using them after spending quite awhile playing around with the Mini Goblin V3, Serpent Mini, and Augvapes Merlin. All 3 of those tanks always had leak issues which I was never fully able to resolve - though I loved the velocity style build deck two of them had, and I loved the 4ml juice capacity of the Merlin! They were all very easy to build on, but difficult to do a good MTL build on that consistently vaped well. I used airflow restriction devices in two of those tanks, which seemed to maybe restrict airflow too much? The build decks were also actually maybe a bit too large to work on for MTL purposes, though many MTL vapers swear by those tanks. I'm new to building, so the fault was probably with me - except for maybe the regular leak issues.
I had a problem with the black Kayfun Mini V3 never running, always showing "no atomizer" on my mods, or never showing a resistance reading on my Coil Master 521 mini. I finally resolved that issue by using a dremel tool to remove the black finished steel from the inside (non-visible side) of the 510 connector plate. I didn't have to remove all of the finish, just about 2-3mm worth from around the 510 pin hole on the inside of the plate. The finish did not appear to be paint, but may have actually been something like a nitride finish (a good, tough finish now commonly used on a lot of firearm parts), which was difficult to remove just using steel wool. I would not recommend buying a black finished Kayfun Mini V3 unless you are willing to mess with it like that in order to get it working for you. Both tanks now run fine.
I chain vape, so I'm looking to get good advice on coil setups that will work best for that. I wick with rayon, which can also be challenging, though I think I'm finally getting a little better at it. I stuff the coil until the rayon can barely move back and forth easily, and does so with an audible little squeak, then trim the tails some, but I'm always unsure about how much I should be trimming. I do get dry hits sometimes, using 70/30 VG/PG juice, with the juice flow opened up about 2-3 full rotations. Currently I'm using wide open airflow. I do chain vape regularly, so I tend to keep wattage levels below 10W, often as low as 7W, depending on what resistance coil I'm using.
I've done 2.5 and 3mm inner diameter builds, between 1.2 to 1.8 ohms, using SS316L and regular kanthal, spaced and not spaced. I think I prefer using 26 or 28 gauge kanthal. The SS316L requires inner coil diameters and coil wrap numbers that I just don't think work as well on the small Kayfun Mini V3 deck. Coil distance from air hole will range from 1-2mm. People here seem to prefer a 2.5mm inner diameter coil, with 3mm not appearing to work as well, but some seem to like a 2mm ID as well. I tried using 32 gauge double twisted kanthal, but had trouble consistently securing the coil leads to the deck. I may try 30 gauge double twisted in the future. I also tried some SS316L temp control builds as well, but I don't think the Kayfun Mini V3 is well suited for that.
I like the Kayfun Mini so far. It delivers pretty darn good flavor, has decent vapor production, doesn't appear to leak, and is fairly forgiving to build on. I only wish it had a larger juice capacity, but it is pretty easy to refill, so that is a minor complaint. I want to make the best use of the tank for my particular style of vaping (chain vaping), which I don't think I've achieved yet, so any advice you folks have to help me improve my builds would be much appreciated. Thank you in advance.
I do truly wish I could advise or even comment, but I'm using my KF3s less and less. I have a huge aversion to the wicking over that WALL.
I've sort of moved on to the Toyotas and the Egg Rolls as tanks of choice at this point.
Glad to see this thread bumped tho! Thanks, Billy.
I've sort of moved on to the Toyotas and the Egg Rolls as tanks of choice at this point.
Glad to see this thread bumped tho! Thanks, Billy.
Too large to fit on my iStick Picos. I need to use tanks with an outer diameter of about 22mm or less at the base of the tank.
I do truly wish I could advise or even comment, but I'm using my KF3s less and less. I have a huge aversion to the wicking over that WALL.
I've sort of moved on to the Toyotas and the Egg Rolls as tanks of choice at this point.
Glad to see this thread bumped tho! Thanks, Billy.
Toyotas and Eggrolls? Okay, you're going to have to explain what those are! Why an aversion to wicking over the wall? Seems like a non-issue to me, unless you just prefer to drip?
LOL, no, I don't prefer drippers at all. I just find trying to get the wick over the wall in the Kayfun, working blind, so to speak, is just really annoying to me. Most of my other RB tanks have decks that allow you to SEE where the wick is going. With the KF, I never know if it's reaching the bottom or is in the right position.
Toyotas and Egg Rolls. Sorry, my kreative license in renaming stuff. The first is the SX Corolla (a marvelous RB tank) and the second are the Joyetech Ego One Mega V2 tanks (also incredibly good!).
Toyotas and Egg Rolls. Sorry, my kreative license in renaming stuff. The first is the SX Corolla (a marvelous RB tank) and the second are the Joyetech Ego One Mega V2 tanks (also incredibly good!).
If you want a bigger tank, try the V3 mini plus. It's the exact same as the V3 mini, but wider. About 22ml I think and holds around 4ml
I actually prefer the wall. With the previous Kayfuns I hated trying to screw down the chamber without snagging the wick and then trying to get the wick in the position I want. With the mini V3 I just cut the wick slightly less than the width of the base, tuck it in with a pair of angled tweezers and forget about it. The wall holds it in place and as long as you're not plugging the juice holes, it'll wick fine.
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I'm using Japanese cotton pads. I cut a strip, insert it, cut it to size, tuck it in and I'm done. I bought a bag of what's got to be at least 1000 pads half a year ago and I just took the second pad out this week. I'll be gone before the pads are.
I think I'm finally wicking my Kayfun Mini V3 clone better, though I seem to get a bit more seepage out the exterior air intake holes after refilling.
Previously I was apparently using too much rayon. Now I cut a length of rayon, flatten it out with my fingers until it almost looks more like a square of rayon, cut off 1/3rd of that, then trim just an extra millimeter or two off of that, and everything seems to be working much better. That's for a 3mm inner diameter ~1.6 ohm spaced coil.
Obviously I was forcing too much rayon wick into the coil previously, though supposedly you are supposed to - within reasonable limits. If much twisting of the wick and forcing it in is required to get through the coil, then you are using too much rayon. I still trim the tails of the rayon wick with a sort of "V" cut, though not quite that sharply. (The bottom of the "V" being left flat, instead of a sharp point.)
It appears you really shouldn't be using much more rayon wick at all than you do with cotton. I'm still not sure if I'm trimming right - due to having some seepage issues. They are not severe issues at all, so I'm not complaining, but I think I could do better. Now that I'm wicking (somewhat) better, I've been able to turn the juice flow down to just a bit less than 2 full turns, and that has helped stop juice from seeping out the air intake holes.
I also run a ~1.6 ohm coil as low as nearly 6 watts, while still getting a good MTL chain vape. The way I was wicking before required me to bump up the power more, but then I would get occasional dry hits, and my wick would barely last a day before needing to be replaced - and yet the vape still wasn't as good as I'm getting now.
I also had some issues with my Kayfun Mini V3 clone loosening up too easily, losing resistance, requiring constant retightening - which was an unacceptable pain. I've resolved that using some blue thread lock on the applicable bottom half tank threads. This has worked, for now, surprisingly well. I think I'll get some more SS versions of these tanks now that I have a better idea how to make them work right. They seemed over fiddly at first, but have become much less so with some experience. Thank god. I was beginning to get worried.
Previously I was apparently using too much rayon. Now I cut a length of rayon, flatten it out with my fingers until it almost looks more like a square of rayon, cut off 1/3rd of that, then trim just an extra millimeter or two off of that, and everything seems to be working much better. That's for a 3mm inner diameter ~1.6 ohm spaced coil.
Obviously I was forcing too much rayon wick into the coil previously, though supposedly you are supposed to - within reasonable limits. If much twisting of the wick and forcing it in is required to get through the coil, then you are using too much rayon. I still trim the tails of the rayon wick with a sort of "V" cut, though not quite that sharply. (The bottom of the "V" being left flat, instead of a sharp point.)
It appears you really shouldn't be using much more rayon wick at all than you do with cotton. I'm still not sure if I'm trimming right - due to having some seepage issues. They are not severe issues at all, so I'm not complaining, but I think I could do better. Now that I'm wicking (somewhat) better, I've been able to turn the juice flow down to just a bit less than 2 full turns, and that has helped stop juice from seeping out the air intake holes.
I also run a ~1.6 ohm coil as low as nearly 6 watts, while still getting a good MTL chain vape. The way I was wicking before required me to bump up the power more, but then I would get occasional dry hits, and my wick would barely last a day before needing to be replaced - and yet the vape still wasn't as good as I'm getting now.
I also had some issues with my Kayfun Mini V3 clone loosening up too easily, losing resistance, requiring constant retightening - which was an unacceptable pain. I've resolved that using some blue thread lock on the applicable bottom half tank threads. This has worked, for now, surprisingly well. I think I'll get some more SS versions of these tanks now that I have a better idea how to make them work right. They seemed over fiddly at first, but have become much less so with some experience. Thank god. I was beginning to get worried.
If you find that the tank leaks out of the air holes after refilling, the problem is that you're pressurizing the tank when you screw the top cap back on. The easiest way to resolve this is to turn the tank upside down before you open the flow control. That lets the pressure out without forcing juice into the well.
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