Yep, removed it like I do with the authentic one, no go. The threads catch for maybe 1/8th of a turn on the bottom and won't even screw into the top.
As for the NI200 builds I have ran them and found that the resistance varies meaning your TP control and such are constantly going out of whack - to the point it would ask me if I had a new coil after opening/closing the
juice control. It makes sense since it is relying on a spring to connect the positive current from the base to the deck. Given the nature of the floating
juice control there wasn't really another way to do it without adding several more pieces to the already exhausting parts list.
After further comparing the two the clone is not up to the fit and finish of the authentic. Take a look at the picture and you can see the finish for both - the real one is on the right and clearly has a more finished appearance. The SS is smoother on the authentic where the clone has a rougher feel to it. Take them away from each other and 90% of the people wouldn't be able to tell the two apart from five feet away.
What I don't get is the guy in the video I forget his name uses it as his all day vape. I wonder if there is a difference in the spring on the clone and the original. I get no resistance change on my V4 with the P3 but it only reads to 10ths. One thin I have noticed is the same thing he says in the video turning the juice control off and on is a struggle at the end of the turning cycle and a lot of time I end up unscrewing it a little from the P3 when I am closing the JC to the off position for filling.