Attack of the (Kayfun v4) Clones!

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Light Seeker

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I tried that but had less feed than with the cotton barbells. I was using a straight rolled 400 mesh wick with Japanese cotton wrapped once on each end and going down into the well. The cotton wicks A++, and supplies the mesh wick. That worked super.

My all mesh wick was kind of sizzly and lacking good flavor. I believe that some burning pockets can easily exist on a micro scale where the mesh and the coil don't make good contact. Small amounts of Acrolein would be easily produced from overheating VG on the uncooled coil wire, bringing us a bad taste (and toxicity). Softer wicks better conform to the coil. But I think that with some experimentation the all mesh method could work fine too.

My mistakes were 1) too narrow a roll of mesh 2) the portion in the well was on its side, I think slitting it or otherwise exposing more surface would make for better fluid entry. It's tricky to have a perfectly tight wrap of wire on mesh without any shorting. Sliding the roll into the coil wears off oxidation. Wrapping the wire onto the roll makes it hard to oxidize the metals. Not sure how to best do this yet. The potential benefit is not having to change out any cotton, just rinse and dry burn.
Thanks for chiming in Fernand, good to see you're a step ahead of me!

You've hit my 2 major concerns...
1. Wicking. When considering a gennie, the metal wick is fully immersed in juice in the tank, even then every gennie user knows the old tilt & roll once juice level goes below half or so. I can't see how mesh will absorb enough juice laying on the V4 deck or touching it ... in any configuration .... to keep fully saturated. So cotton or rayon tails are needed just to get enough juice to the mesh. I was considering stuffing some rayon on each side..... or as you, wrap it as part of the mesh wick. Either way, not optimum, nor easy.
2. Shorting. I never had to worry about shorts in my old RSST with a plastic tank & insulated juice holes.But on a V4 the wick could be laying on the deck, or touching the chimney... even with cotton/rayon tails or wraps around it. Old school ways say torch the foil first to carbonize it, not really sure this micro-layer of carbon really works, or more-so in a gennie because the foil wick is saturated with juice and not conductive.

Either way, i believe, & you've confirmed, that a wire wick in a V4 may present more problems than it solves :unsure:
 

Elyptic

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Yeah Tobeco can make a clone for $40 they did not design or engineer anything just copy a product.That's the easy part( most of the time Tobeco does not always get that right..see first batch Dome rba ) Most authentic companies that develop products want to control all parts of the manufacturing, and not pass it on to subs.That way if you find a problem you can fix it before they make 20k that are wrong.This one is expensive to say the least but that's the way it is. People who have the money and want the authentic will buy it.The rest buy the clones...

While I do agree that the R&D and testing do cost more, I have a hard time believing that they justify the 8x markup over the bare manufacturing costs. R&D in many ways is a sunk cost from a business sense. Yes, you want to recoup some of it, but you go in knowing that your markup on the end product will be where the profits will be made, and therefore quantity sold becomes paramount. It seems like the authentic manufacturers are missing this point. Instead of putting a 50% markup on manufacturing, they are instead putting a 400% markup on manufacturing (or lets be conservative and say 250% markup for non-Chinese manufacturing).

I may be in the minority, but to me, this seems like a poor business decision. If they simply brought the price down to even $99 dollars, I'll bet they'd sell more than double what they have sold to date. And more importantly, would continue to see good sales numbers well into the future.

Regardless, I think the design is brilliant and am really enjoying my Tobeco.
 
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MattB101

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Some of my juices are sweeter fruit blends (Ahlusion mainly). I know they will gunk up the coil faster, but my Lemo (running a nickel build) will go four or five tanks with the same juice, but on the Kayfun v4, I only get about two tanks before things start to get pretty nasty.

A nickel coil really doesn't ever get caked up with crumb because temp control prevents burning at all therefore nothing is there a to build up. It literally apples and oranges.

Sent with no malice and not a whole lot of forethought from my new Galaxy Tab 4. Thanks Santa!
 

bowe3brappp

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My forever growing collection :)
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A little size comparison
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A close up of the main man
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Why I have to sneak vape mail past the misses and say "I have had this tank for ages"
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Sorry for double post
 

ricks

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bowe3brappp

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Why do you have those 2 adapters under those Kayfuns?

This is how you fix it :)

Get a drip tip Oring cut it to size, push it around the positive pin.
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Get the bottom section of a mini protank 2/3, cut the top threads of and file it down smooth.
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Get a pin from the bottom of a Kangertech coil or something similar and cut it to size, rest it in the middle of the o ring on top of the positive pin.
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Sqcrew your tank on and bam it works a treat no ohms jumping around and it is very secure :)
 
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