Attack of the (Kayfun v4) Clones!

[Spiceman1967]

I've been kicking around the idea of just how to post about this since reading Spiceman's post but was concerned about how it would be accepted or what it wold sound like.
These are objectives with tightening #9 screw
1s.The square flat surfaces of #3 & #8 .... solidly together, this is the ground path of the coil.
2nd. The #9 screw is locked tight so it doesn't back out with use.
3rd. The juice control moves freely.
So if #9 screw bottoms in it's threaded hole then parts #3 & #9 are not solidly butted together. the longer bottomed out #9 would be like if you just tighten #9 just enough to still let the juice control have free movement but with out wanting to back out during use.

Short story: #3 & #9 should be solidly together before #9 bottoms in it's hole.

Thinning #7 would be the first route I would go.

I agree with Dwcraig here as well. In my particular case, I noticed that #9 wasn't sized right when compared to my working Kayfun. When the new #9 came it, it matched in size with my good one, so it was an easy swap for my case. To be honest, I thought I would spend $2 on a #9 before I screwed up the #7 by thinning. This is solely based on my perceived inability to thin #7 successfully as I am kind of a klutz sometimes

I actually did what you say here. At first I kept #9 just loose tight enough to hold everything together and loose enough so the JC would still move. I did it this way until the new #9 came in.

Thanks for the information. You have contributed a lot to this thread and I always appreciate any comments that you have. We are all in this together

 

[Monotremata]

I'm actually afraid to take apart the other Tobeco to compare #9 cause I don't want to screw that up as well haha.

 

[dwcraig1]

So I decided to pull apart the 2nd FT type A, the one with the shim installed. I measured it's #9 and it is 3 .67 mm. Then I go on to measure it's # 7 (1.02 mm), then to the one in the Tobeco brand parts bag (0.91 mm) so I swap out the # 7's and remove the shim thinking maybe that would do it but no, I put it all back the way it was.

 

[dwcraig1]

I'm actually afraid to take apart the other Tobeco to compare #9 cause I don't want to screw that up as well haha.

Fear not...

 

[WickedWicks]

Juice control is driving me nuts on Kayfun V4, SS
Every time after closing JC, filling tank, re-opening JC the AFC well is more or less flooded. I'm running a chimney build with a fully wicked chamber, so I tend to believe it's leeking throgh the JC itself not through the build!?

o-ring #16, change to 12 x 1.5 mm, enjoy

Thanks! sound like a known issue. Anything else wrong with this particular model?
I also have some trouble when tightening down the chamber cylinder (resistance jumps) and the AFC screw doesn't seem to tighten down as much as I would like (how can they btw not include the allen key!). I haven't investigated much on those issues yet though.
Anyway Is there is less troublesome clone on FT?

 

[Marc411]

I have a FT, Tobeco, Code Vape (?) and the EHPro (new release) and so far the EHPro has been the best performer overall with the Tobeco right behind. Make sure if you pick up the EHPro that it has the new top nut (38) and the base numbers 10 & 11 aren't epoxied into the UC upper section. If you buy it from Sweet Vapes and call them they know it's an issue and will take care of you. They ship extremely fast.

 

[Fernand]

@Yerba and @WickedWicks, I'm kinda partial to Tobecos as I have 4 Tobecos so far (from an e-bayer who goes by vapeomg out of Las Vegas, 21.95 shipped, no tax, paypal, delivery 2-3 days), all good so far, with no "right version" issues, I can't see bothering with Chinese delays, customs - no advantage. Just sayin'

@Yerba, with your order, what I'd most humbly suggest you consider adding is an RDA, a dripper. That's a good thing to practice coil ideas on, it's a good reference point and tester for DYI flavor and vapor. And if you're going to go there, while you're at it, maybe consider making a Big Dripper your RDA, as that's a really functional device, it's the one I use a lot, it's a bona fide dripper with a good lung hit, and a winchester pump action from above ;-). No problem feeding as-is even with 95% VG. My clone came off ebay in 2 days under $18 shipped.

 

[350ZMO]

This is one of the things I noticed looking at the various offerings.

 

[MattB101]

I dunno, but she stumbles blindly all the way to the bank.

True, still stupid looking but, true!

Sent with no malice and not a whole lot of forethought from my new Galaxy Tab 4. Thanks Santa!

 

[Light Seeker]

consider making a Big Dripper your RDA, as that's a really functional device, it's the one I use a lot, it's a bona fide dripper with a good lung hit, and a winchester pump action from above ;-)

Whoa. That Big Dripper is a ...... big dripper
There's an authentic on the classies.

 

[MattB101]

Whoa. That Big Dripper is a ...... big dripper
There's an authentic on the classies.

Isn't that a 26650 device? I had it Confused with the bug Buddha.

Sent with no malice and not a whole lot of forethought from my new Galaxy Tab 4. Thanks Santa!

 

[Yerba]

@Fernand, your humble suggestion is exactly what I'm looking for.
I'll get the Tobeco clone finally, it's half of what I was planning to expend so it's even better.
Dripping it's something I though was related to mechs only, not really sure why. Anyway, I've read a little bit about how they work but no idea of specs or gear needed to make them work properly. I own a Provari P3, if it is good enough for them then I'm getting one.
So I went online to check the Big Dripper and found the original and many clones. Should I trust in Tobeco too? I found it at $16 in ebay.

 

[Light Seeker]

Don't know if I'd 'trust' in tobeco Yerba, they've put some junk on the market. But their V4s are good, EHpro is usually a better clone mfg.
Your P3 is limited to .7Ω and 20watts, so low ohm dual coil drippers are out of the question with this mod. Single coil higher ohm will work, you may find you would want more power.

 

[speedemon]

Want to thank whoever posted the ideal for how to get rid of the ohms changing do to the spring. The latest Tobecco I got blue one very nice I did not use any of the tricks just left the spring out nothing in place of it! Works great ohms have not changed once works great try this before you try other things.

 

[TheKiwi]

Welp! Used a Dremel and made the side holes a ton bigger for my 4s kit.

Gonna install it on my next rewick. Hopefully the airflow opens up more!


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[mgmrick]

I just slotted my pin rather than drilling out all the holes

 

[TheKiwi]

View attachment 414417

I just slotted my pin rather than drilling out all the holes

AH! I was wondering if that would make a difference but I got impatient. Maybe I'll do that too. Did you notice a significant difference


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[capthook]

Hello!!

Stopped in last week after catching up on the thread in anticipation of my Tobeco Kayfun V4 arriving.
1st RBA, so super excited.
Can't wait to quit spending big $$ on stock coils that taste like funk after 3 days.

Broke everything down, but left all the orings in place.
A mild smell of machine oil, but pretty clean.
Gave it 2 washes in hot water and dish soap using a toothbrush and qtips for a light scrub.
1st wash, the water smelled like machine oil. 2nd wash, not.
Poked through all the holes to make sure everything was clear. It was.
Dried it all off and got ready for my first build ever.

Figured I wanted to try first:
28ga, 2.4mm ID, 10/9 wraps, 1.8 ohms.
Came out ok. Everything is smaller than I had pictured in my head.
Guess I got an extra wrap on there as it came out at: 2.0 ohms
Fired it and cleaned it up with needle nose pliers.
Like 1.5mm above airhole.

Then ready for first ever wick.
Organic Japanese cotton.
Figured about 3/16" wide strip.
This took a few more tries than the wrap.
1st try, I had pulled the 'faces' off the cotton. Too hard to manage/handle. No thanks.
2nd try, full piece, cut the cotton against rather than WITH the grain.
3rd try, cut the wicks too short.
4th try, worth proceeding.
Put the chiminey ring on, and then lightly fluffed and lightly pushed the wick down.
Not the prettiest.
I had a hard time getting the tails pointing down without 'stuffing' it in.
I can see how the 'paste the wick to the sides' method seems popular.
Seemed a little light on the cotton used down the deck,
but pretty good, if not a tad tight inside the coil.
Primed it up, fired just fine..........VAPE TIME!

more to come...

 

[capthook]

So most everything seems great.
The threading on the juice control is a little crunchy.
Had to use the screwdriver in the airhole method the 1st try.
Now it's smoothing out. I think I scraped the threads a little when cleaning.
And of course, I did the same rookie move as many others, forgot to close the JC to fill!
Had juice gurgling out the air ring holes.

The air flow control (AFC) is not the easiest to adjust.
Set loose, it is a surprisingly airy draw.
I tightened it down to about 1/2 draw for now.
And it will go down to almost no draw.

I'm very pleasantly surprised at how great the vape is on my first build.
Take awhile to get it perfect, but that is some of the fun!
Vapes well from 7 watts to 11 watts on the 2.0 coil. (I like a cool/MTL/low wattage vape)
Gonna get those watts and the airflow dialed in and rebuild a 1.8 coil along the way,...
Will have to lower my nic level! HA!
Latest juice order in the mail is first 12mg order from 18mg.. good thing.. HA!

Happy land for me!

 

[HDMontana]

Looks pretty good. Like you said, might need a tad more cotton. One other suggestion to try. Flip it over and have your coil legs coming to the screws from underneath the coil. I think you will find that it will be easier to tighten down this way. Also, wrap your wire leg clockwise around the screw. That way the wire will tighten around the screw as you turn it down. Like I said, looks pretty good for your first coil.

HD