Attack of the (Kayfun v4) Clones!

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ThunderDan

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What kind of tool is needed to take out the center post? My AFC screw does nothing so I thought I'm going to take this apart entirely to inspect further.

I used some needle nose pliers.

So my Tobeco v4 arrived in today's vape mail (it's soaking as we speak). Anything I should know before I put a build in at and take it for a test drive?

Fill it, and enjoy!

I had to open / close the juice control on mine a couple times because the spring was being a bit finicky causing the resistance to jump all over the place, but since then its been good the last two days.

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk
 

Raguvian

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The seemingly complicated design is what was putting me off on ordering one of these. I mean, Kayfuns are "classics" so I really kind of one want version but was looking more at a 3.1 or KFL+ because it just seemed a lot simpler to deal with. This comment made it seem a bit less intimidating, though, so maybe I should pick one up? I'm only really working with a Lemo right now (which is great for me) so my rebuilding experience is pretty limited. Would I have a lot of problems with it do you think?

I would get the Tobeco version. Some people seem to have a few problems but the majority of users say it's been just fine. All I did was clean mine and fill it up with juice and throw a build in it and it's been great. It's pretty finicky at first in terms of knowing exactly how and what order to rotate the parts (for example you can't have the juice control closed and try to take the tank off the build deck - I bent a screwdriver that way) and I wasted a tank or two learning how to operate it, but after about a day or two it's just so easy to use. I was thinking about getting a KFL+, but seeing how quickly I can refill this thing makes me not want to go back to a bottom fill tank. Heck I even filled up my tank while driving to work the other day.

BTW this is my first tank and I've had no problems with it. I do like to tinker and take things apart though. If you do get one, there are a ton of great resources (youtube, this thread, etc) to get you going.
 

HDMontana

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Mini protank 2 drip tip fits pretty good. Doesn't look bad either IMO.


HD
 

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mudram99

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What are you using for wicks? I'm still using my favorite silica. I'm on my forth refill on each of my KF4's and still going strong. I'm waiting for some Rayon to come in the mail that was offered to me from another member from here to try out.

Should be any day now Rick, I saw the turtle's .... disappear heading north the next morning.
 

mudram99

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I use 3 pieces of 3mm silica wrapped together with 30g 5 times evenly spaced. I find larger diameter coils taste better and keeps the wick wet for chain vaping.

I am playing with way to many attys at once, but it appears my "sweet" spot for most builds is .9 and ran around 14 watts. It is juice specific I realize and I DIY with some reaching dang near 95% VG. Rayon has been the only thing I have found that can wick consistently.

Stop by here and you will find loads of helpful info and people.

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...ck-better-flow-flavor-saturation-nic-hit.html

Vape On
 
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ricks

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Getting tired of the leaking on both of my tobeco clones, want to try replacing the O-rings. The o-ring store has different materials.... bunaN70, bunaN50, bunaN90, etc.
I know the sizes, but which o-ring material should I order??

I heard bunaN70 somewhere. Did you try the floss fix?
 

dwcraig1

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A little o-ring info
Buna is synthetic rubber like what tires are made from, Viton is a branded name for buna
The number (eg buna 70) is a rating of hardness, 90 is harder than 70 for example. This is the "Dura" rating
Buna 70 is what we usually see on atties when the o-rings are black but there is black silicoe also.
The red o-rings are usually silicone and 75 duro.
The clear ones are silicone also and soft, no idea what their duro rating is.

I correct line 2, I had "nitrile" instead of "Viton", both buna and Viton are nitrile.
 
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DoubleTap1

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I am in the right thread, because here is my situation. Basically I am suffering from ADD need stuff now syndrome. Just dropped some heavy coin on a new P3 and a bunch of batteries, and I wanted a K4 to go with it, but they are out of stock every where forever probably. Figured I'd grab a Veritas RDA to play with until then, but that thing is $120.00. So, K4 + Veritas (originals) for $300, OR K4 + Veritas (clones) for $50. I've never been a cheap skate clone guy, but this is just...ridiculous. The price difference is insane and very tempting. $300 for two atties makes me feel sick. $50 sounds way better. If they are crappy, i'll buy originals though. Any K4 clone reviews out yet?
For what it worth this is my take on it. You can buy a VW Karmann Ghia much cheaper than a Porsche 911, but don't eclectic to judge the performance of the 911 from driving the Karman Ghia. If you buy a clone be happy with what you paid for it. Having watched PBusardo's review on YouTube about dozen times was convincing enough for me. Like many have said, with all the precision parts of the authentic any attempt at an exact duplicate would surly cost much more than the prices the clones are being offered at. My best friend owns and operates Microform, a precision machine shop. The machines cost in the hundreds of thousands each. Add in MR&D, design, testing, labor and quality control, and you have a product that sells itself.
I've read enough clone reviews to see this is not the type of device you manufacturer cheep and expect to have a quality product.
It took me a while searching the Internet across the country, but I finally found one and was satisfied with the inflated price I paid. Should be here tomorrow.
 
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