Attack of the (Kayfun v4) Clones!

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RickCain

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Why are the threads wrong? you took the extra pieces off right? You know what I mean the piece above the metal insert and below. They both screw off then the plastic tank screws in. I don't mean to ask something you probably already knew. Just thought if you hadn't watched the videos on it

Yep, removed it like I do with the authentic one, no go. The threads catch for maybe 1/8th of a turn on the bottom and won't even screw into the top.

As for the NI200 builds I have ran them and found that the resistance varies meaning your TP control and such are constantly going out of whack - to the point it would ask me if I had a new coil after opening/closing the juice control. It makes sense since it is relying on a spring to connect the positive current from the base to the deck. Given the nature of the floating juice control there wasn't really another way to do it without adding several more pieces to the already exhausting parts list.

After further comparing the two the clone is not up to the fit and finish of the authentic. Take a look at the picture and you can see the finish for both - the real one is on the right and clearly has a more finished appearance. The SS is smoother on the authentic where the clone has a rougher feel to it. Take them away from each other and 90% of the people wouldn't be able to tell the two apart from five feet away.

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cobaltxblue

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As I understand it, nickel on a KFv4 is potentially (not definitely) limited by the spring because the spring has its own resistance, although small, that could potentially fluctuate. If someone could explain this I think it will help. I will not be building with nickel anyway, allergy, but I do find it all to be endlessly interesting.

Once I have mine I just plan on keeping it simple with 7 or 8 wraps of 26 gauge A1 Kanthal on a 2.4mm screwdriver.
 

cobaltxblue

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Yep, removed it like I do with the authentic one, no go. The threads catch for maybe 1/8th of a turn on the bottom and won't even screw into the top.

As for the NI200 builds I have ran them and found that the resistance varies meaning your TP control and such are constantly going out of whack - to the point it would ask me if I had a new coil after opening/closing the juice control. It makes sense since it is relying on a spring to connect the positive current from the base to the deck. Given the nature of the floating juice control there wasn't really another way to do it without adding several more pieces to the already exhausting parts list.

Is the M-Tank for the KFv4 a different size than the ones the earlier Kayfun's use? If they are that is going to end up annoying me since I own like 8 of them (I like using them with my Orchid's).

PS- please make certain that the weather in SoCal is good for the next few weeks as I am flying back out there in just under a week.
 

RickCain

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Nikkita6

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Look forward to your Robbot, Tobeco comparison.
No spare parts or instructions with the Tobeco concerns me.
Also anyone tried these with Ni200?...

Cool :) I plan to review them in the same week but on separate days and then offer my final thoughts on which clone I think is the best. The Robbot Tech version also doesn't come with spare parts and your concern is legit. In fact I contacted Robbot Tech the day before yesterday and told them that they need a spare parts kit included. Being that they were copying the authentic that also doesn't come standard with spares, they thought it was ok .... NOT! No atomizer should be sold without spares, authentic or clone .. most especially a $180 authentic. For $200 bucks I should get a few extra o rings. :glare:
 

Nikkita6

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This is awesome news! Now I am more excited to get the Tobeco version :banana: Thanks for the pics :)

I picked up the Tobeco version today at a local vape store and must say this is the best clone I have ever seen.... EVERYTHING appears to be just like my authentic KF4 so far - even the engraving is identical!

For those interested in running Ni200, don't bother as the spring will always be the limiting factor on this RTA. Sad to think I could have bought four of these versus one authentic KF4.

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Bath time
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cobaltxblue

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The condensation, or whatever it is, in the spring area would screw the resistance in TP for sure. Absolutely agree it should not be as big of a deal with Kanthal since the higher resistance would mean less of a percentage change. I mean going from a 0.13 resistance (for example) in Ni200 to even 0.10 is a big thing whereas 0.8 to 0.77 is a big ol' meh who cares. I mean the resistance while firing, or if you are using a liquid that gunks up coils, is going to vary that much as is. Of course a 0.03 fluctuation is not exactly huge and I want to say that I saw changes up to 0.05 or 0.07 during firing when I was playing with Ni200 before realizing it was causing migraines. From what I remember, and can tell at 5:45am on a New Years morning, titanium would possibly work better for TP in something like the KFv4 since it carries a much higher resistance than Ni200 does.
 

ccwaters

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Have a bit of a fail on the Robot Tech I got, Identical builds on the two clones, Robot won't feed the juice properly, dry hits... After close examination I've found Robot Tech didn't bother drilling the juice feed holes all the way through, they are open, but partial blocked Probably fine with thinner juice but high VG is a no go. From what I can tell they had the depth setting set so the bit tip just broke through leaving it partially obstructed.

Relatively easy fix, however one that the end user should not have to do. Not only that, but as tiny as the bit is drilling it will run the risk of snapping the bit, and a broken bit would be difficult/impossible to get out.
 

cobaltxblue

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I do not recall seeing a Dremel bit as small as the holes on the KFv4, but that would be convenient if there is. Thinking about times when I screw up soldering a PCB and drilling out the solder makes the most sense.

If it is just metal shavings lodged in there, rather than only a partial break through by the drill bit, a sewing needle might work better since it will have some flexibility that the drill or Dremel bit would lack.
 

ccwaters

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Nope not shavings, the hole is not punched all the way through, tried putting a micro screw driver through the hole to clean it out, they are all as clean as they will get without removing some metal, my Dremel set has nothing small enough to get in it, so that means I'll have to buy something.


As I said, not a difficult fix, but none-the-less, something I shouldn't have to do. My other less expensive clone is perfect, you can see it was drilled all the way through, something Robot didn't do. I'm sure it will feed OK with 60/40 or thinner, but PG doesn't get along with my throat.
 

AnsonJames

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This is awesome news! Now I am more excited to get the Tobeco version :banana: Thanks for the pics :)

Tobeco have come a very long way since their early days - the Odysseus clone was the first clone they were known for - and it was a real dog.

They seem to be one of the best manufacturers now.
 

ricks

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Nope not shavings, the hole is not punched all the way through, tried putting a micro screw driver through the hole to clean it out, they are all as clean as they will get without removing some metal, my Dremel set has nothing small enough to get in it, so that means I'll have to buy something.


As I said, not a difficult fix, but none-the-less, something I shouldn't have to do. My other less expensive clone is perfect, you can see it was drilled all the way through, something Robot didn't do. I'm sure it will feed OK with 60/40 or thinner, but PG doesn't get along with my throat.

Got any pics of this issue?
 

cobaltxblue

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Do you guys think they pay Svoemesto a royalty on these for using their design , name and logo?:(

No more so than Svoemesto pays the original people/company that introduced a way to heat fluids containing nicotine into a vapor for inhaling.

The logo is the only thing that pisses me off to be honest. The rest, well there is not really anything fundamentally original in the Kayfun 4 anyway. There are other devices that allow for removal of the coil/deck while the liquid remains in the tank and I am sure that Svoemesto is not paying for that either.
 
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