Attack of the (Kayfun v4) Clones!

Status
Not open for further replies.

Marc411

Vaping Master
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Mar 17, 2014
4,737
10,918
Windy City
I just received my ZEaster version of the kayfun v4 Clone. Seems to be a perfect 1:1 copy. Paperwork and all. I love it. If finances will ever permit me I will get an original, but for now the clone allows me to experience the pleasure of this device.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

Wolf, this is not a jab I just want to understand why.

If the clone is giving you the vape you want, has good/decent quality and looks the same why drop the $180?

I was going to pick up an authentic and they sold out, I found the clone and picked it up. It vapes damn good, well made and looks real nice. I gave up on the original and picked up a second clone.

Why not spend the extra cash on other gear?
 

KTMRider

Vaping Master
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Jul 5, 2014
4,538
18,079
NJ
I bought my wife a sonic jewelry cleaner for Christmas:). I plan on using that with some Dawn dish soap and warm water. Any other suggestions or do you guys think that will do the trick?

If I like the clones I will request an authentic for my birthday. Wife is always looking for suggestions.

I washed mine with dishwashing liquid and hot tap water. I let it soak for about 5 mins and it was clean.


Wolf, this is not a jab I just want to understand why.

If the clone is giving you the vape you want, has good/decent quality and looks the same why drop the $180?

I was going to pick up an authentic and they sold out, I found the clone and picked it up. It vapes damn good, well made and looks real nice. I gave up on the original and picked up a second clone.

Why not spend the extra cash on other gear?

If you like the design, you buy the authentic to show support for the designers and not just the clone makers. But everyone has their own opinions on this. If it worked with ni200, I'd buy an authentic. For now, it's on a backup mod (VS DNA 30) as I prefer ni200 much better.
 

VapinWolf

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Apr 14, 2013
402
475
54
Grand Bay, Alabama USA
Wolf, this is not a jab I just want to understand why.

If the clone is giving you the vape you want, has good/decent quality and looks the same why drop the $180?

I was going to pick up an authentic and they sold out, I found the clone and picked it up. It vapes damn good, well made and looks real nice. I gave up on the original and picked up a second clone.

Why not spend the extra cash on other gear?
I don't take that question as a jab at all. Honestly right now I can't afford it. I do understand the engineering that goes into quality, well thought out complex designs and this sure is one. The prototyping testing etc deserves recognition at least and if I can ever afford one I would love to say that I have an original. Just my thoughts, nothing negative to anyone who feels different.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
 

Marc411

Vaping Master
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Mar 17, 2014
4,737
10,918
Windy City
I don't take that question as a jab at all. Honestly right now I can't afford it. I do understand the engineering that goes into quality, well thought out complex designs and this sure is one. The prototyping testing etc deserves recognition at least and if I can ever afford one I would love to say that I have an original. Just my thoughts, nothing negative to anyone who feels different.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

If you like the design, you buy the authentic to show support for the designers and not just the clone makers. But everyone has their own opinions on this. If it worked with ni200, I'd buy an authentic.

Seems like reasonable thinking and I would have had the original if it was available, I spent the extra cash on the SX mini.

And I don't feel any different Wolf, I got lucky with the clone and the SX mini was a bonus.
 

Nikkita6

Vaping Master
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Oct 7, 2011
8,970
18,956
New York
  • Deleted by sonicdsl
  • Reason: Unregistered Reviewer

runebinder

Full Member
Jul 16, 2014
19
10
Nottingham UK
I received an EHPRO Kayfun V4 clone today from Angel Fire Mods in the UK. Threading and build is excellent, glass tank is smooth on the edges and it all fits together very nicely. Had to give it a couple of soaks and rinses to get rid of the machine oil taint. (Been a dark and dreary day here in England so pic quality isn't as good as I'd hoped).


P1040711.jpg

P1040717.jpg

One odd thing compared to the original and the other clones I've seen is the top nut on mine (the part the drip tip fits into), doesn't have the chamfered edges on the bottom thread, it's perfectly round.

P1040722.jpg

The sleeve is nickel plated brass.
It worked perfectly in temp mode, no changes in resistance with spring or with sleeve, the difference between the spring and sleeve would have be measured with voltage under load to see if there's any loss with the spring but there is no doubt a large one, I just haven't measured it with a meter, it hits way harder with the sleeve.
Note: in the first part of the post where I discuss the sleeve I was using regular resistance wire for the coil. Either way there was never a problem with it going in and out of temp mode.

I'll try to give an example of how this can not be detected with an ohm reading, just an example not real numbers of anything.
The spring is able to provide a good solid connection to the parts on each end up to 3 amps, so if you measure resistance on these parts all looks good, you then apply 4 volts with a 2 amp load and measure voltage at the load end and get almost 4 volts, again all is good.
Next repeat, take ohm reading all is good, this time we have the same 4 volt supply but have a 5 amp load and we measure the voltage and get only 3 volts at the load end.
This example is figured with the idea that if the 5 amp load was placed on the 4 volt supply that the supply voltage would only drop to 3.8 volts.
So what happened to the .8 volts, resistance under load, in this case the spring's ability to not conduct more than 3 amps without a loss.

EDIT: I did have a problem with it going into "Temperature Protected" would display on the screen with the spring installed but not going between voltage and Temp. No problems at all when using the sleeve though.

I'd love to see photos for how you've made this tube adjustment as I'm quite a visual person lol. Having said that running a Ni200 build on my RDNA40 atm and it's reading the same as my Ohm meter of when I built it at 0.14 and vaping beautifully.
 

puffon

Vaping Master
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
  • Sep 18, 2014
    5,928
    15,765
    Florida
    I received an EHPRO Kayfun V4 clone today from Angel Fire Mods in the UK. Threading and build is excellent, glass tank is smooth on the edges and it all fits together very nicely. Had to give it a couple of soaks and rinses to get rid of the machine oil taint. (Been a dark and dreary day here in England so pic quality isn't as good as I'd hoped).

    Good to see it comes with spares. How about instructions?
    Keep us posted on the Ni200 reliability.
     

    dwcraig1

    Vaping Master
    ECF Veteran
    Verified Member
    Mar 17, 2012
    9,013
    49,296
    Imperial Beach, California
    Having said that running a Ni200 build on my RDNA40 atm and it's reading the same as my Ohm meter of when I built it at 0.14 and vaping beautifully.
    It has to be measured using a voltage drop method, I'll try to get some figures posted with the spring and with the sleeve installed a little later today, it's 1:50 pm here now so......
    BTW, the DNA 40 doesn't show the resistance of the coil on the display (correctly) while it's firing only before and after, whatever it was before it fires is what the screen displays.
     
    Last edited:

    runebinder

    Full Member
    Jul 16, 2014
    19
    10
    Nottingham UK
    Good to see it comes with spares. How about instructions?
    Keep us posted on the Ni200 reliability.

    No instructions but I've lost count of the YouTube videos that I've watched on the v4 so it's not like I would have used them lol. Will do on the Nickel.

    It has to be measured using a voltage drop method, I'll try to get some figures posted with the spring and with the sleeve installed a little later today, it's 1:50 pm here now so......
    BTW, the DNA 40 doesn't show the resistance of the coil on the display (correctly) while it's firing only before and after, whatever it was before it fires is what the screen displays.

    Interesting, well I'm getting as good a vape as I do with my genuine KFLv2 and Lemo with Nickel in terms of no dry/burnt hits and not seeing it flash Temperature Protection like it does on the KFLv2. Running it at 410F on 25W.

    Edit: Ooh I forgot the obligatory set up pic in my last post :)

    IMG_0532.jpg
     

    Spiceman1967

    Senior Member
    ECF Veteran
    Verified Member
    May 30, 2014
    221
    612
    Lompoc, CA, USA
    Interesting, well I'm getting as good a vape as I do with my genuine KFLv2 and Lemo with Nickel in terms of no dry/burnt hits and not seeing it flash Temperature Protection like it does on the KFLv2. Running it at 410F on 25W.

    Edit: Ooh I forgot the obligatory set up pic in my last post :)

    View attachment 400949

    Nice looking set up. What is that drip tip you have on there? It's like a tank barrel. :toast:
     

    dwcraig1

    Vaping Master
    ECF Veteran
    Verified Member
    Mar 17, 2012
    9,013
    49,296
    Imperial Beach, California
    Sleeve with Spring.jpg
    Here is my voltage numbers measured off the screws that secure the coil with the spring installed and with the spring removed and the sleeve installed.
    This was 2 second "hits" repeated numerous times adding a drop of juice to the coil when switching from spring to sleeve. I thought it hit way harder with the sleeve installed and these voltage numbers confirm it.
    They are:
    With the spring it ramps up to 1.54 volts and quickly settles to .80 volts.
    With the sleeve it ramps up to 1.62 volts and quickly settles to 1.41 volts.
    There it is folks.
     

    2legsshrt

    Resting In Peace
    ECF Veteran
    Oct 19, 2009
    7,162
    107,789
    75
    Spokane,WA
    DW I am like you I got 1 real one from the vape rev store but when I decided to get another they were gone. Be another month or two before they have them in again. Now that I am trying to get into the Nickel thing I am not sure. I would like to know more about this sleeve thing. I'm not really a clone buyer I have 3 original KFLplusV2's and 1 original KF V4. I do have 1 EH Pro KFL plus V2 2 holer. Works pretty well but the air flow is tighter but even with that it doesn't flood. I also have 5 Provari's including 1 P3 and I love all of them but this Nickel thing has me really intrigued and I am waiting for the new batch of Vapor Sharks to come in so I will get the one I ordered. I also would like to get a Hana Modz V4D but they are sold out right now. When they come back in I will be on the list. I hope the V4 works out some kind of a work around for NI200 I would love to be able to use it.
     

    Circa Survivor

    Super Member
    ECF Veteran
    Verified Member
    Jun 17, 2014
    908
    796
    Omaha, NE
    So I had a hell of a time with the juice control, and then just the bottom wouldn't go back on after I disassembled and cleaned it. I spent and hour trying to get it on, and I k ow there was a weird screw that screws to the bottom, but I ended up having to take pliers to the screw so it would stay on. This thing is so overly complex it makes my head spin. Don't get me wrong, I understand how everything works, but good god I almost threw it at the wall xD
     

    dwcraig1

    Vaping Master
    ECF Veteran
    Verified Member
    Mar 17, 2012
    9,013
    49,296
    Imperial Beach, California
    So I had a hell of a time with the juice control, and then just the bottom wouldn't go back on after I disassembled and cleaned it. I spent and hour trying to get it on, and I k ow there was a weird screw that screws to the bottom, but I ended up having to take pliers to the screw so it would stay on. This thing is so overly complex it makes my head spin. Don't get me wrong, I understand how everything works, but good god I almost threw it at the wall xD

    Was it #1 or #9?
    When I removed #9 for the first time I had to wrap duct tape around the base and hold the base with pliers will using the correct size screw driver, I really thought it wasn't going to loosen.
    explosion-kfv45482dcf3ea895_720x600.png
     
    Last edited:

    Circa Survivor

    Super Member
    ECF Veteran
    Verified Member
    Jun 17, 2014
    908
    796
    Omaha, NE
    Was it #1 or #9?
    When I removed #9 for the first time I had to wrap duct tape around the base and hold the base with pliers will using the correct size screw driver, I really thought it wasn't going to loosen.
    explosion-kfv45482dcf3ea895_720x600.png
    Number 9. I don't know if you're supposed to screw that in first, but it didn't seem like the spring was doing the job by pushing down on the insulator.
     

    dwcraig1

    Vaping Master
    ECF Veteran
    Verified Member
    Mar 17, 2012
    9,013
    49,296
    Imperial Beach, California
    Number 9. I don't know if you're supposed to screw that in first, but it didn't seem like the spring was doing the job by pushing down on the insulator.
    I can't imagine how you could get pliers on #9.
    Anyway numbers 3 thru 9 are assembled in the order shown.
    How is your liquid control movement now?
    And is #9 tight? This seems to be a problem on some clones where when the #9 nut is tight (it should be) the liquid control doesn't want to turn.
     

    Circa Survivor

    Super Member
    ECF Veteran
    Verified Member
    Jun 17, 2014
    908
    796
    Omaha, NE
    I can't imagine how you could get pliers on #9.
    Anyway numbers 3 thru 9 are assembled in the order shown.
    How is your liquid control movement now?
    And is #9 tight? This seems to be a problem on some clones where when the #9 nut is tight (it should be) the liquid control doesn't want to turn.
    I think that's the problem with it. It's tight and my lfc does not want to turn. I'm afraid if I loosen it then #3 will be loose like it became before.
     

    KTMRider

    Vaping Master
    ECF Veteran
    Verified Member
    Jul 5, 2014
    4,538
    18,079
    NJ
    So trying the plastic tank section yesterday, I couldn't get the lower tank section off the evap chamber. I used some pliers and a microfiber cloth and ended up bending the lower tank section a bit, enough so it won't work and some scratches on the evap chamber. I placed an order for replacements from FT but there's that damn 7 day wait thing. I swear, I'm not ordering from FT anymore. It took over a month to get stuff from them last month and I'm still waiting for stuff. It's getting on my last nerve.


    *edit: And they still haven't responded to my request for a new glass tank section but I already ordered a 5pk.
     

    KTMRider

    Vaping Master
    ECF Veteran
    Verified Member
    Jul 5, 2014
    4,538
    18,079
    NJ
    One more growing pain.

    O-ring #16 in the diagram is more like 11 x 1 mm on the clone and was allowing juice to leak into the air chamber and thus leaking out of the air holes and the ring with the air holes. Someone posted a pic of the same leak on the authentic as well in part #8. I found a slightly thicker o-ring to make a better seal. It's late and I just replaced it so I don't know if it works or not but it did seem to make a better seal than the original o-ring. It usually leaks when you open and close the juice control a few times. I'll keep you guys updated.

    When it doesn't leak, it's pretty awesome. Once I get it reliable, I'll try a ni200 build. I miss TP. I've been re-wicking after each tank and the rayon is always burnt inside the coil and I'm only vaping at 11w. Might be my wick or my coil but that never happened with TP.
     
    Status
    Not open for further replies.

    Users who are viewing this thread