Attack of the (Kayfun v4) Clones!

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mudram99

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Will the #16 o-ring be the correct size or will it be too small again? I'd love to pick that up if it comes with the correct sizes and works with the Tobeco.

I think $10 shipped gets you like 50 o-rings for the Kayfun from the o-ring store so I'm probably going to do that since I don't want more screwdrivers and prewicked coils.

As you can see I didn't order them for the Orings :)
 

KTMRider

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Since I have the corrected top cap on the way from EHPro, I decided to go ahead and build my Kayfun v4 and just use a workaround for filling. Man this thing vapes nice. Great flavor and IMO the perfect amount of airflow. Did a 9 wrap of 26g on a 2.4 for a 1.2 ohm coil. I usually use 28g in my RTA's but decided to try something different.

Only bad thing is even after an alcohol soak, a Dawn soak and scrub I am still getting a taste of machine oil. Guess I will break it down and use some Simple Green

Tap'd from my LG G3

Dawn is enough to get the machine oil off. I use really hot tap water and Dawn and I don't have to scrub. I let it sit for a few mins and stir it around a bit before a hot tap water rinse. If you still get machine oil taste, there's 2 places that could cause this, the center post hole and the air chamber between 3 and 8 (most likely place).


As you can see I didn't order them for the Orings :)

I don't think you ordered enough :p
 

Garemlin

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Dawn is enough to get the machine oil off. I use really hot tap water and Dawn and I don't have to scrub. I let it sit for a few mins and stir it around a bit before a hot tap water rinse. If you still get machine oil taste, there's 2 places that could cause this, the center post hole and the air chamber between 3 and 8 (most likely place).

I was trying to avoid breaking those parts down. Oh well gotta do what I gotta do.
 

Ph0t0man

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I managed to get the Fasttech 'A' version working flawlessly by using parts from my 'mystery' version.

I used parts 10 and 11 because the Delrin isn't as tall, the smaller white Teflon O ring because it was slightly thicker, I used the no.16 O ring for the same reason and the tank lock nut (33) because it has flats and is easier to lock.

24 hours later and no gurgles or leaks - it's obviously cost a little more but I've saved $135 on the price of the original so I'm happy, I enjoy tinkering too so it's been fun.

I have been lurking this forum for a few and decided to join. A lot of interesting info. What I did completely by mistake was I reassembled the device and omitted the A7 spacer. All my binding and erratic ohm readings went away. The only thing I noticed was when the juice control is closed there is a slight gap between the airflow ring and the base. No issues other than that which only cosmetic. Now I just have to master my wicking.
 

Garemlin

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Dawn is enough to get the machine oil off. I use really hot tap water and Dawn and I don't have to scrub. I let it sit for a few mins and stir it around a bit before a hot tap water rinse. If you still get machine oil taste, there's 2 places that could cause this, the center post hole and the air chamber between 3 and 8 (most likely place).


Is there a trick to getting the insulator under the 510 pin out??? Doesn't seem like it was meant to take out like on the authentic.
 

dwcraig1

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Is there a trick to getting the insulator under the 510 pin out??? Doesn't seem like it was meant to take out like on the authentic.

brass-wood-screws_large.jpg

This is what I use, the appropriate size and screwing it it in with fingers only and pull it out.
 

dwcraig1

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Cheers dwcraig, ive checked all of them, holes in the chamber are good, but the ones you pictured are odd, they have holes but there is no groove leading to the next ledge, so guessing a bit of a restriction with juice flowing up the holes, gonna have to try and drill them but i only have HSS bits and with a drill bit too small ill probably snap them with a normal hand drill - How did you remove the burrs, the gap is so small i cant fit any tool in there to remove them.

I just scraped them off with an Exacto knife
 

Raguvian

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Is there a trick to getting the insulator under the 510 pin out??? Doesn't seem like it was meant to take out like on the authentic.

The insulator on my FT clone would not budge no matter what I did to it so I left it in and just didn't boil the bottom piece while cleaning the rest of the atty.

The insulator on the Tobeco comes right out with the 510 pin. No resistance or anything. There's no reason for it to be in there so tight since it's held in place by the 510 pin anyways.
 

Monotremata

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I fired my Russian 91% at 30w yesterday too. You aren't alone ;)

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Haha yeah I'm sure lots of us have! Couple weeks ago I set my Vamo to 40w just to see what the voltage/amps were and forgot like 2 minutes later when I vaped..

Boy does that hurt on a KFL. Burned my wick in half too!
 

Heespharm

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I have 2 tobecos that seem to be working great with ni200, I want to get the black version but am concerned about the plated 510. Anyone have issues with the black plating affecting ni200 builds?

My tobeco still tastes like an oil put but works well with ni200

How did u clean urs???


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