Attack of the (Kayfun v4) Clones!
- Thread starter KTMRider
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Buying a spring fix is way too expensive almost the same price what I paid for my genuine kayfun 4 
. Easy and simple fix just by making a spring under pressure in other words just unscrew a little bit the screw on 510 connector. The biggest problem screw on 510 connector feels a little loose just roll a little foil around threads. Problem solved
. Easy and simple fix just by making a spring under pressure in other words just unscrew a little bit the screw on 510 connector. The biggest problem screw on 510 connector feels a little loose just roll a little foil around threads. Problem solved 
Looks like I will have to wait for the Kf4 versions to come around then. ..... Or buy a infinite version of the KF4, theirs has that bell cap included
Looks like I will have to wait for the Kf4 versions to come around then. ..... Or buy a infinite version of the KF4, theirs has that bell cap included
It's only off by 1/8 inch
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Been using my Tobeco clone for week, experienced leaking issues using the juice control during filling. I have now replaced O ring #16 with a 10,10 x 1,60 O ring, its a very tight fit but it works like a charm now. No leaking, not even a hint of gurgeling after filling.
I dont think the O ring have anything to do with it, but i did a full break down making sure every part was fitted right, making sure part #9 was screwed in tight. After this (and the O ring change) my juice control works with the 510 pin tightened down
Also this just showed up on my door, Tobeco Sub Ohm kit
Measures 2,80 mm at the Bottom, but at the mouth (top) only 2,10 mm. Gonna fit one now and see how it compares to the stock (tobeco) center post.
I dont think the O ring have anything to do with it, but i did a full break down making sure every part was fitted right, making sure part #9 was screwed in tight. After this (and the O ring change) my juice control works with the 510 pin tightened down
Also this just showed up on my door, Tobeco Sub Ohm kit
Measures 2,80 mm at the Bottom, but at the mouth (top) only 2,10 mm. Gonna fit one now and see how it compares to the stock (tobeco) center post.
Funny enough, the status changed this morning to "Ready to ship". That's pleasing news
An additional thought just came to mind. Has anyone heard when the Tobeco spares kit is going to ship from VaporTekUSA? I ordered a few.
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So I have received a few of these from FT and am very impressed with the quality of
machining, vape quality (I am used to Lemos and Orchids, the vapor quantity isn't the same
but the taste and far better juice mileage more than make up for it.)
So I've also built a couple of Hana box DNA 40 setups. They work great but man the KF4 is
extremely niggly with trying to use a .15 ohm coil.
No way it'll get there consistently with the spring installed but it *does* work if I back the airscrew out a couple of mils past the post
and crank the 510 pin tight up against it.
I know there are various mods, brass tubes to replace the spring etc in the works but does anyone else have any
comments on this?
The only issue with doing this is that the juice control is rendered ineffective as it's all torqued together so tightly that
the control won't open.
HOWEVER, having said that, really for filling how necessary is the juice flow control?
I'm filling mine just fine by not bothering with the flow control, popping off the top and filling per usual.
Maybe a tiny bit of excess getting in the coil chamber but a short reverse puff and wiping off any drops that may appear at the airholes
I'm good to go.
For 20 odd bucks this is an outstanding piece of engineering and production quality.
machining, vape quality (I am used to Lemos and Orchids, the vapor quantity isn't the same
but the taste and far better juice mileage more than make up for it.)
So I've also built a couple of Hana box DNA 40 setups. They work great but man the KF4 is
extremely niggly with trying to use a .15 ohm coil.
No way it'll get there consistently with the spring installed but it *does* work if I back the airscrew out a couple of mils past the post
and crank the 510 pin tight up against it.
I know there are various mods, brass tubes to replace the spring etc in the works but does anyone else have any
comments on this?
The only issue with doing this is that the juice control is rendered ineffective as it's all torqued together so tightly that
the control won't open.
HOWEVER, having said that, really for filling how necessary is the juice flow control?
I'm filling mine just fine by not bothering with the flow control, popping off the top and filling per usual.
Maybe a tiny bit of excess getting in the coil chamber but a short reverse puff and wiping off any drops that may appear at the airholes
I'm good to go.
For 20 odd bucks this is an outstanding piece of engineering and production quality.
Still had a machine oil taste after an alcohol soak and Dawn soak and scrub. I was not able to get the base broken down at all on mine. So I boiled some water and let all the parts soak for about 10 minutes. I had already bought some 91% isopropyl alcohol because I had previously used 50%. Put the base in a swished it around for about 5 minutes. Then put the rest of the parts in and let them soak overnight. Took them out this morning and rinsed and brushed them. Only a very slight smell of oil in the base now. Put it together and decided to use a strong tasting, darker juice than I used the first fill. Hoping that would help deaden the taste. So far so good. No machine oil taste at all. The only bad part is for some reason my JC was jammed and would not open all the way. Took some major fiddling but finally got it to work. Dunno how or what I did but it worked.
I did see a post that brings to light a good point. They are shipping these things assembled with the oil residue still on them. And it is having time to soak into the o-rings on the slow boat from China. I may eventually just replace all of the o-rings with one of the kits that they sell.
Well the best way to not lose in the wash is to remove it, the next best way to lose it is to take it out.
I really need to make sure my juice control is open when I vape. I was wondering why I was getting a weird flavor, and when I was done vaping, I went to close the juice control and it was already closed. 
Has anyone else broken their atty down to clean it between tanks and forgotten to put the spring back in? I'm 3 for 3 so far
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Four full days now with no leaks what so ever on my FT type A's since changing o-ring #16 to 12 x 1.5 mm.
I'm not sure why my Tobeco leaked a little bit the other day, didn't leak before that and hasn't leaked since, life is good.
I'm not sure why my Tobeco leaked a little bit the other day, didn't leak before that and hasn't leaked since, life is good.
Has anyone else broken their atty down to clean it between tanks and forgotten to put the spring back in? I'm 3 for 3 so far
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Almost twice. LOL
Trust me this thing is not coming out. I read that you don't even need to remove it to get the other sections of the base apart. So I tried to take them out from the other side but no luck. The base will not come apart.
Has anyone else broken their atty down to clean it between tanks and forgotten to put the spring back in? I'm 3 for 3 so far
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I do it nearly every time.
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Has anyone else broken their atty down to clean it between tanks and forgotten to put the spring back in? I'm 3 for 3 so far
Sent from my SGH-M919 using Tapatalk
I did it.....
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