Attack of the (Kayfun v4) Clones!

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Viluxia

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Just another question for you guys, still not solved the dry hit mystery on mine yet, still good for 5-10mins then dry hit city no matter what i do. juice holes are freshly redrilled out to the stock 1.2mm that they are and removed any burs, the 1.5mm holes in the chamber i reamed out to remove burrs and no joy with that.

But what i noticed when i was doing the deck, i put my tank foll of juice assembled upside down on the desk, so the drip tip part (with the 2 flat parts)of the tank was on the desk and it was weeping from the o-ring there, so im assuming over time it loses pressure or something i dunno, anyone else noticed this?
 

dwcraig1

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Just another question for you guys, still not solved the dry hit mystery on mine yet, still good for 5-10mins then dry hit city no matter what i do. Juice holes are freshly redrilled out to the stock 1.2mm that they are and removed any burs, the 1.5mm holes in the chamber i reamed out to remove burrs and no joy with that.

But what i noticed when i was doing the deck, i put my tank foll of juice assembled upside down on the desk, so the drip tip part (with the 2 flat parts)of the tank was on the desk and it was weeping from the o-ring there, so im assuming over time it loses pressure or something i dunno, anyone else noticed this?

Actually it would let air in resulting in flooding eventually, so that's not it but it does need corrected.
Tell me about your wick length and PG/VG ratio.
Also wick too tight in the coil can cause this problem but you would almost have to hand wrap it for that (non-micro type) to get it too tight.
 
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dwcraig1

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My black FT one is finally coming today, if I were to buy another my first choose would be a Tobeco off Ebay, and if FT I'd go for the Infinite ones. I like my other FT ones just fine but a couple extra bucks for the Infinite would probably be well spent. But like I said, I'd go for the Tobeco first.
 

dwcraig1

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Well apart from the top drip tip part im lost, its your normal run of the mill 2mm microcoil with 28awg wire, with KGD in the coil, little resistance as normal and the tails are cut just above the holes, coil is sitting around 2mm off the airhole, juice is standard pre-mixed 60pg, 40vg.
It is easy enough to cut the wicks back if too long, try making them longer.
Your build and juice sound pretty much like mine except wick length. No dry hits on my three. (ever)
 

Elyptic

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Just another question for you guys, still not solved the dry hit mystery on mine yet, still good for 5-10mins then dry hit city no matter what i do. Juice holes are freshly redrilled out to the stock 1.2mm that they are and removed any burs, the 1.5mm holes in the chamber i reamed out to remove burrs and no joy with that.

But what i noticed when i was doing the deck, i put my tank foll of juice assembled upside down on the desk, so the drip tip part (with the 2 flat parts)of the tank was on the desk and it was weeping from the o-ring there, so im assuming over time it loses pressure or something i dunno, anyone else noticed this?

I find I occasionally get air bubbles trapped under the deck with the juices I'm using. Tipping it on its side releases a large air bubble and then it wicks correctly again. I'm not sure what causes it, but I seem to have found a solution (turning it on its side).

Just a thought.


Bits scrambled by Tapatalk...
 

Light Seeker

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I find I occasionally get air bubbles trapped under the deck with the juices I'm using. Tipping it on its side releases a large air bubble and then it wicks correctly again. I'm not sure what causes it, but I seem to have found a solution (turning it on its side).

hmmmm. this isn't normal
 

Light Seeker

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These tanks need to have good seals to work properly since they require a vacuum inside the tank. Leaking at the drip tip connector when inverted shows you have a bad air leak there .... if juice can leak thru imagine the air thats passing thru. I'm not sure if that would cause flooding or dry hits.... but is definitely a problem needing a fix. May want to try the dental floss fix .... or even a little vaseline applied with a qtip on the oring ..... and see if this fixes your air bubble & dry hits.
 

Light Seeker

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Does anyone have a comprehensive list of orings that are needed for this tank? I'm considering ordering some spares / replacements.
The parts explosion diagram posted about 10 posts ago. I'm having issues with oring #16 (weeping at the air-holes), some have suggested replacing this with a 12x1.5 instead of the 11x1.5. I ordered both.
 

NavyChief52

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crss

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    mikeymop

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    Apr 2, 2014
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    Got the black aMod KFv4 in the mail today.

    Parts are more accurate to the real thing than the EHPro version. Almost no machine oil on the device. Similar to the Tobeco which I played with. The only thing I dont like, is the black coating is also on the inside of the chimney.

    I'm getting leaking from the air holes, woke up to an empty tank and a puddle (not cool, when on your last bottle of juice, with little money being between jobs).

    I'm going to try to find a 12 x 1.5mm o ring and see if that fixes the leaking. Has anyone had success with the aMod version?

    The parts explosion diagram posted about 10 posts ago. I'm having issues with oring #16 (weeping at the air-holes), some have suggested replacing this with a 12x1.5 instead of the 11x1.5. I ordered both.

    Where did you order your 12mm o-rings? I checked the oring store website, would silicon be the best option? Or should I go for one of special composition (Such as Buna N-70)?
     
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