Attack of the (Kayfun v4) Clones!
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While my Tobecos are working perfectly, the ones from FT and FC still has a few quirks so I decided to play around with them.
I swapped some parts between them to get a better fit of the JC but now they were both a bit on the tight side but better than being wobbly. Still not perfect. I initially assembled both barely tightening (9) and (1) so the JC moves but after a couple of days of use, they loosened up. One got really wobbly so I broke that down and found that the nut (9) came loose but if I tighten it down, the JC wouldn't move. It was worse when the 510 screw (1) was tightened too, making the JC almost impossible to move. I sanded down the seal ring (7) on both KF's just enough that I can tighen both (9) and (1) and the JC still turns. There's still some friction but when using it with the atomizer fully assembled, it turns easily and it's very smooth with no play.
I swapped some parts between them to get a better fit of the JC but now they were both a bit on the tight side but better than being wobbly. Still not perfect. I initially assembled both barely tightening (9) and (1) so the JC moves but after a couple of days of use, they loosened up. One got really wobbly so I broke that down and found that the nut (9) came loose but if I tighten it down, the JC wouldn't move. It was worse when the 510 screw (1) was tightened too, making the JC almost impossible to move. I sanded down the seal ring (7) on both KF's just enough that I can tighen both (9) and (1) and the JC still turns. There's still some friction but when using it with the atomizer fully assembled, it turns easily and it's very smooth with no play.
I have a SS "a-mod" from CodeVape. I was getting a slow leak from under the UC Middle Ring (ring with the air holes).
In my case the #16 o-ring was really mushy/weak, and a little chewed up from getting pinched during assembly. I replaced it with a 11 x 1.5 buna n70 o-ring Saturday, and thus far it has held up well. I ordered 12 x 1.5 too, but haven't tried one yet.
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Got the replacement cap for my EHPro today. So nice to finally be able to fill without flooding.
Sweet, my intuition was spot on. Thanks for the reassurance, hopefully that fixes things, loving the vape but not the moist pockets.
I noticed condensation on the seam where the bottom tank (glass) meets the chimney. Could a bar o-ring there produce air hole leakage as well?
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Okay so I got a Tobeco Kayfun V4 clone and it BROKE on the FIRST DAY!!!!!!!! I was adjusting the airflow screw and when I went to put everything back I had found that the bottom assembly with the build deck and juice control and chimney got STUCK ...!!!!!!!!! It won't turn!
I suspect when I took the airflow screw out the spring inside may have shifted and is now lodged in a way that is preventing me from turning the bottom assembly! .....!!! Funny I was impressed with the Tobeco because it seemed well machined and all but now I dunno what to do. Any help please. Has this happened to any of you guys?
I suspect when I took the airflow screw out the spring inside may have shifted and is now lodged in a way that is preventing me from turning the bottom assembly! .....!!! Funny I was impressed with the Tobeco because it seemed well machined and all but now I dunno what to do. Any help please. Has this happened to any of you guys?
Just something I noticed when looking around. I wouldn't go out of my way or pay the Hcigar premium just for 316ss but since the KGOtech is about the same price as my Tobecco and cheaper than my Robbot I figure maybe I'll grab one just to see the difference.
When you take out the 510 screw, does the juice control turn? If not, dig deeper and loosen #9 screw - does it turn now?
If yes to either then you have the machining error present on some clones and the fix is to take a sander to #7 or insert a shim in the square indentation of #3.
Parts diagram:
http://www.chitown-angler.com/pichosting/albums/userpics/10006/K4.pdf
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Check your wick. I went thru about 9 tanks and it still wasn't that badly gunked. When I had short legs, it gunked but now that the legs touch the deck it's fine.
This is mine after 6 and 3 quarters tank of apple pie + vanilla swirl + graham crackers + sweetener + vanilla ice cream DIY juice, 80VG.
I use pretty much more wick than what everyone seems to suggest tho. Rayon.
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I use pretty much more wick than what everyone seems to suggest tho. Rayon.
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What he said.. After week 1 when I changed my coil, my wick was still whiter than I am! Of course the middle was black but thats cause I scorched it forgetting I had my Vamo set to 40w hah..
Man Kiwi that wick looks huge!!! I wonder if I should be using more. I use cotton yarn, its the perfect diameter to slide in a 1/16" or 5/64" coil. I usually just thread it through, snip, and drip.. I never fan it out or unravel it though, should I be?? Seems to be fine but I do get occasional dry hits and sometimes weird teeny tiny puffs instead of a big cloud.
Looking at it closely, I don't think I used enough wick in the middle of the coil. The wick isn't touching the coil completely, so I think juice is cooking on top of the coil and getting it all gunky. I'll stuff the crap out of the coil tonight and then thin the ends and hopefully get a better flavor/vape.
Received my KGOtech V4 today, looks nice. It looks clean , no oil residue but they recommend you clean it with alcohol and soap before use. Never used a Kayfun before but I am looking forward to it.
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Very nice coil here, twisted. I have been 1/16 micro in my kayfun lites. But in my v4 i think i went 2mm... I wanted more surface area on juice. On my 3rd week & this coil set up .6 ohm is great!This is mine after 6 and 3 quarters tank of apple pie + vanilla swirl + graham crackers + sweetener + vanilla ice cream DIY juice, 80VG.
I use pretty much more wick than what everyone seems to suggest tho. Rayon.
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Haha I've been using either 3/32 or 7/64 just because of the larger airholes. My preference is always to use as big a ID as possible; I get a better vape off it, and it can handle higher wattages.
Grin. Speaking of wicks, back when the kfl first came out, everyone used to say I use too much wick. And then a month ago everyone on the thread started saying more is better. Dunno. I just gravitate towards what works for me tbh.
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Grin. Speaking of wicks, back when the kfl first came out, everyone used to say I use too much wick. And then a month ago everyone on the thread started saying more is better. Dunno. I just gravitate towards what works for me tbh.
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Just got my Tobeco KF v4 today, lots more parts then the Tobeco KF lite v3.1+ or how ever the name goes....
Working great so far on my little MVP 20W@12W, 32g twisted, 1.7Ω, .72 ID, with 4 strand yarn...
Just ordered some cellucotton, hopefully I like it, or I will have 40ft. to part out and sell on ebay....
Working great so far on my little MVP 20W@12W, 32g twisted, 1.7Ω, .72 ID, with 4 strand yarn...
Just ordered some cellucotton, hopefully I like it, or I will have 40ft. to part out and sell on ebay....
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That's about how much I use.
Cotton expands while rayon doesn't. Rayon also transports liquid better than cotton. If you haven't tried rayon, I highly recommend it.
I've been using larger coils too. I hardly get any dry hits and better flavor and vapor too.
Do you find that coils gunk up faster at lower or higher power? I've been gunking up a coil every couple tanks. They're black and nasty.
It's nothing a dry burn and re-wick can't fix, but I'd like to get more time between rewicking.
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It's nothing a dry burn and re-wick can't fix, but I'd like to get more time between rewicking.
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