Gonna try this. Been using masking tape....works great, but then I need to clean up the sticky residue from the tape.
Attack of the (Kayfun v4) Clones!
- Thread starter KTMRider
- Start date
- th_trl_thread_readers 0
- Status
I do. The blue stuff. Rinsing under water doesn't take it off... But a quick shot of Windex cleans it right up.
Thin strips of Gorilla duct tape is my weapon of choice, I put them back on the roll when I'm done with them. Been using the same pieces for months.
Now THAT is being che.....uh, frugal
It has more to do with being lazy,while not really that hard to strip off a piece the stuff is pretty tough. But that roll at the rate I'm using it will last 50 years.(As long as the wife don't find it)
My coloured glass sections came in now my 3 KF V4's are colour coded I even have a black one for when my Black Infinite KF V4 shows up.
FT has bin jerking me around on it for 2 weeks now there saying it will ship tomorrow but I'v heard that before
What is the consensus on the best way to eliminate the spring? I plan on using the Black KF V4 on a dna 40 with TC
BTW the mods are FT enclosure with authentic dna 30's
[/URL][/IMG]
now my 3 KF V4's are colour coded I even have a black one for when my Black Infinite KF V4 shows up.FT has bin jerking me around on it for 2 weeks now
there saying it will ship tomorrow but I'v heard that before What is the consensus on the best way to eliminate the spring? I plan on using the Black KF V4 on a dna 40 with TC
BTW the mods are FT enclosure with authentic dna 30's
My opinion on that:What is the consensus on the best way to eliminate the spring? I plan on using the Black KF V4 on a DNA 40 with TC
If your satisfied with the stock air and want to retain the ability to adjust it use a sleeve in place of the spring.
If you are OK with stock air flow and wide open without ability to adjust it crimp the end of the AC grub screw so it leaves about 1 mm sticking out the bottom of part 14.
If you what to go for more air, even possibly drill out or replace # 14 use the squared off washer under part 11 and slot the bottom end of part 14.
It's important to end up with your juice control having a small gap (a couple thousands) from being open all the way, this insures that you've made solid contact. This small amount will have no adverse effect on wicking.
Last edited:
lol Point being whether it's latex/balloon, tape or rubber bands, IMHO these are preferable to roughing up the surfaces of the atty.Now THAT is being che.....uh, frugal
A little tip to help the threads 'break in' is to put a daub of toothpaste on the threads then tighten/loosen the joint repeatedly. Reapply as needed. Rinse all traces off after you're done. The slight abrasiveness of the toothpaste will help take down the high spots and slightly dull the sometimes sharp edges of the threading. I've found after doing this and wetting the threads with a small amount of VG, the joints are a lot easier to loosen.
Last edited:
Excellent tip! Need to try this too, thanks.
After cleaning with alcohol, I use a dab of silicone grease on my mech mod threads making them buttery smooth. Wouldn't want to use that on the internals of a atomizer of course.... I just wipe a little vg on them. I've read somewhere where vaseline can degrade orings.... Yet I've read here and other places some recommending applying a little Vaseline to orings with a qtip.
Vasoline is a petroleum product, I don't think i want to vape those fumes when things warm up. I'll stick to VG.
Good thought, I may try that. I use cheapo yard gloves to get the "stuck" bits apart when they are being stubborn.
Lol. Was vaping some menthol ice other day, wife tried it. Remarked why don't I just vape Vicks vapor rub. She may be on to something
Good thought, I may try that. I use cheapo yard gloves to get the "stuck" bits apart when they are being stubborn.
I bet those work great
Uber sharp!My coloured glass sections came in
FT has bin jerking me around on it for 2 weeks now
What is the consensus on the best way to eliminate the spring? I plan on using the Black KF V4 on a DNA 40 with TC
BTW the mods are FT enclosure with authentic DNA 30's
[/URL][/IMG]
My coloured glass sections came in
FT has bin jerking me around on it for 2 weeks now
What is the consensus on the best way to eliminate the spring? I plan on using the Black KF V4 on a DNA 40 with TC
BTW the mods are FT enclosure with authentic DNA 30's
[/URL][/IMG]
Question for you, can you tell if these are painted glass, or colored glass? Reason I ask is some of the other colored glass tanks they sell go both ways, Pro-Tank glass comes to mind, wouldn't mind the cheap ones if they aren't painted, otherwise I'll probably be hitting up Spectrum, or IBT.
The latex, and other gloves do help tremendously, but for the real stubborn stuff I do use tape, it not only adds some grip, but you can also build it up enough to get some additional leverage.
Sigh...... just watched #7 float down the drain....... The JC doesn't move with #9 tightened with #7 missing. And the spare parts bag I ordered didn't include it.
#9 is very likely the issue as ricks and dwcraig1 said earlier. Remember, #9 hides out under the insulated nut that the 510 screws into. To repeat, #9 needs to be tight. If tightening it seizes up the juice ring, consider thinning #7 as outlined in an earlier post. Some people use a shim between #3 and #8 to achieve the same basic result, but to me adding another joint in the electrical circuit seems like a step in the wrong direction as far as resistance goes but reports are that it works just fine- your choice.
Ouch! FWIW I think a rubber O-ring will work in place of #7. I'm unsure of what the long term durability would be, but it should hold up fine as long as the fit was okay because it's under no real stress- unless I'm missing something. This should be approached w/caution until it's found to work for sure- just because I mocked my atty up using one isn't enough for me to categorically state all's well w/using one. The dimensions of the seal ring is 0.600" (~ 15.25 mm) OD x 0.508" (~ 13 mm) ID. So an O-ring having the dimensions of 15 mm OD x 13 mm ID x 0.7-ish mm thick will be in the ballpark. These are what the dimensions are on MY atty, be sure to check yours before buying anything.
Last edited:
Dang, it's posts like that when we need a DisLike button Cause I sure didn't want to like the fact of the loss.
- Status
