Attack of the (Kayfun v4) Clones!

[dwcraig1]

Theres one thing ive wanted to ask but i wasnt sure if it was my duff version or not, but this is also present on the hcigar version - the main chimney with the 6 holes in it, if you look at them are they all equal and straight, or does 1 or 2 dip or actually higher than the rest of them, hard to explain but hope someone will know.

It appears that they drilled the holes starting from the bottom, I've noticed what you described on other clones. I can't see it as causing any problem in how it works.
My honest opinion is the clones perform just as well as the originals, at least that's how it seemed to me so I sold my original and bought more clones. They are not without their little problems like burrs, oil and poor fitting o-rings but after that's taken care of they are fine. Let us know how the hcigar works out.

 

[bowe3brappp]

Well after weeks of much anger towards my first V4 ive now grabbed a second one, this time the Hcigar version, 316ss and no logo - right off the bat its heavier than my ijoye (i dont even know that company) one, threading is super smooth - the juice control section tightens up and stays tight, it has some side to side play with no build deck inserted, but i dont know if thats normal, when in the open and closed position its tight. The 4 holes in the deck are done right on the hcigar, with the holes carving a channel and they are straight instead of on the piss like my other one.

Theres one thing ive wanted to ask but i wasnt sure if it was my duff version or not, but this is also present on the hcigar version - the main chimney with the 6 holes in it, if you look at them are they all equal and straight, or does 1 or 2 dip or actually higher than the rest of them, hard to explain but hope someone will know.

Ill get this one cleaned up (hardly any oil smell or residue) and coil'd and wick'd tonight and give it a good test side by side with the other one, and im hoping the hcigar works from the off. Still its cheaper than an original but im kinda wishing i had bought one now lol.

I was stuck on getting the Ehpro, Infinite, Tobecco or Hcigar I then decided to knock the Ehpro off the list because they mucked up a little on a part the top nut it had no flat spots and also parts off the build deck would not come apart but they have since corrected everything and will send you the replacement parts if you bought the version with these faults, So I was left with Tobeco, Infinite or Hcigar after reading this thread I decided to get the Tobeco in stainless steel and a Infinite in black, I think anyone of these clones will all be very good as it is a very good tank and also all of these company's have been tip top recently from what I have been hearing/reading especially Tobeco, I mean this beast I have from Tobeco is solid it is perfectly machined I have looked at everything closely and have not found 1 tiny error. I have read some good stuff on the Hcigar version also. I am sure you will enjoy it as much as we all enjoy our Tobecos. Vape on

 

[bholcomb22]

I received my tobeco kayfun v4 clone yesterday, and I'm pretty happy with it. First off out of the box it looks fantastic. Looks and feels like a super high quality device.

I broke it down and all the pieces look pretty good. Great to fair on the threads... Some are super good, and some are just over par.

My first impression is the flavor is fantastic. I like it even more than the eh pro kayfun lite v2... The only issue I'm having is going from dry hits... then to flooding... I think it may be due to cutting my wick too thin... (cellucotton)

Half way through the day at work today I did switch back to the kayfun lite just because I don't feel like fooling around with wicking while at work.... If I can get the v4 to perform as reliably as my kayfun lite it will my ADV... Even though I don't have it dialed in perfectly I can already tell what a great atomizer it is. I would definitely recommend it. I already like it better than the LEMO.

I am going to re-wick it tonight and see what kind of a difference it makes. Will report back.

I do have one question about the juice control.... Is it actually adjustable or is it just open or closed?... Also do I have to dial it until it stops adjusting?

 

[Steamer861]

It's not a juice control per say, it is a juice shut off for refilling

I received my tobeco kayfun v4 clone yesterday, and I'm pretty happy with it. First off out of the box it looks fantastic. Looks and feels like a super high quality device.

I broke it down and all the pieces look pretty good. Great to fair on the threads... Some are super good, and some are just over par.

My first impression is the flavor is fantastic. I like it even more than the eh pro kayfun lite v2... The only issue I'm having is going from dry hits... then to flooding... I think it may be due to cutting my wick too thin... (cellucotton)

Half way through the day at work today I did switch back to the kayfun lite just because I don't feel like fooling around with wicking while at work.... If I can get the v4 to perform as reliably as my kayfun lite it will my ADV... Even though I don't have it dialed in perfectly I can already tell what a great atomizer it is. I would definitely recommend it. I already like it better than the LEMO.

I am going to re-wick it tonight and see what kind of a difference it makes. Will report back.

I do have one question about the juice control.... Is it actually adjustable or is it just open or closed?... Also do I have to dial it until it stops adjusting?

 

[Viluxia]

It appears that they drilled the holes starting from the bottom, I've noticed what you described on other clones. I can't see it as causing any problem in how it works.
My honest opinion is the clones perform just as well as the originals, at least that's how it seemed to me so I sold my original and bought more clones. They are not without their little problems like burrs, oil and poor fitting o-rings but after that's taken care of they are fine. Let us know how the Hcigar works out.

Well thats good to know, i was a little concerned they were not straight all the way round round, its only 1-2 that are lower than the rest, almost resting on the threads for the tank section. Anyways ive cleaned it up and wick'd and coil'd it and lo and behold its working from the off, no real idea why but my theory is the juice holes in the deck were the culprit on the other version and with this one being done correctly its wicking and wicking with no signs of going dry.

Its not without its own little quirks though - driptip on mine is so loose you cant pick it up by the tip, the juice flow sections #3-#5 are smooth, but have side to side play either when the deck isnt screwed in or when its half way closed or open, solid when fully open/closed. #38 seems to not sit flush by half a mm (im nitpicking now). and the spring is so weak, when moving the juice flow you can hear it catching, will be swapping that out for the other clones one as that is stiff and perfect
Its got the same coil from my other one as i just swapped it over, so 2mm 28awg at 1.5ohms on the DNA30 are 22 watts and its keeping up a treat, im happy, just need to tweak a few things and ill swap parts from the other to make a totally bang on version in the coming days.

 

[Fernand]

@viluxia, the silver-plated screw you see at the bottom of the 510 connector isn't to adjust the "pin". It holds the whole base together! It needs to be pretty tight or you will get slop in the mating when the juice control is part-way. Too tight and it will feel tight when opening/closing JC. If you dismantle it you'll see how/why. Stretch the spring a tiny bit for best connection.

I think a very good suggestion we got a while back is smearing all the threads with toothpaste as part of the initial cleaning, and working them to lightly abrade the metal and smooth the action.

On coil & wick, Newcomers, here's a KF V4 method derived from consensus that seems to be close to foolproof.

• Make the coil on the larger side, like 7/64" or even 3 mm. Smoosh it together while hot "microcoil" style.
• With 28 gauge A1 Kanthal 8 wraps on 7/64" will give around 1.5 ohms. That's a good first try, works well on unregulated batteries.
• Position the coil with openings facing the wells, something like 2 mm above the air tube.
• Use the Japanese "ko gen do" untreated cotton pads with long well-defined fibers. Cut with direction of fibers.
• Insert a good size wick into the coil, you want no voids in coil-wick contact. Such air pockets burn juice and generate toxins.
• Drape the "tails" down, fluff wide, and cut so they will fill the well but just touch the base.
• Mount the inner chimney and place the "tails" in, so the fibers are vertical and "extend" the juice tubes. Like in a plant!
• Saturate with liquid before assembling.
• Don't forget to open the juice control. Hold by the A3 510 base (not the A5 nut) and tighten by the D38 drip tip holder clockwise, that's the direction, that's how to remember.

If you need to temporarily rescue a mediocre build, draping a "flavor wick" over the coil, that dips into the wells, can work.

Anybody see any booboo here, please advise.

 

[dwcraig1]

@viluxia, the silver-plated screw you see at the bottom of the 510 connector isn't to adjust the "pin". It holds the whole base together! It needs to be pretty tight or you will get slop in the mating when the juice control is part-way. Too tight and it will feel tight when opening/closing JC. If you dismantle it you'll see how/why. Stretch the spring a tiny bit for best connection.
Anybody see any booboo here, please advise.

If the silver plated screw is #1 well it is meant to be adjustable but seeing how it protrudes out some already it shouldn't be necessary in most cases.
But if the tightness or loosness of #1 affects anything other than connectivity,( eg. juice control loosness/tightness) then there is something else not right which would most likely be #9 screw not being locked tight. If tightening #9 causes juice control to "lock up" there are quite a few posts in this thread on how to remedy that.

 

[TheKiwi]

^can confirm. Same thing happened to me.


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[Fernand]

Screw A1 wears many hats, and the way the whole V4 is designed is very interesting. Check for yourself if YOUR wobble is improved by tightening it (obviously not excessively). Mine was, and I was ready to blame sloppy machining.


Here's the Einstein-Witch cut for the cotton wick:

 

[Viluxia]

If the silver plated screw is #1 well it is meant to be adjustable but seeing how it protrudes out some already it shouldn't be necessary in most cases.
But if the tightness or loosness of #1 affects anything other than connectivity,( eg. juice control loosness/tightness) then there is something else not right which would most likely be #9 screw not being locked tight. If tightening #9 causes juice control to "lock up" there are quite a few posts in this thread on how to remedy that.

Yup the 510 does nothing to slop, i think its the PTFE rings actually on this Hcigar version, they are a little too big on the ID so dont hug the metal sections as they should, but as i say, when fully assembled and juice control is in the full or closed position, it doesnt move at all, its only when its either half way or with no build section sucked down.

 

[bsidb]

......

 

[bholcomb22]

I received my tobeco kayfun v4 clone yesterday, and I'm pretty happy with it. First off out of the box it looks fantastic. Looks and feels like a super high quality device.

I broke it down and all the pieces look pretty good. Great to fair on the threads... Some are super good, and some are just over par.

My first impression is the flavor is fantastic. I like it even more than the eh pro kayfun lite v2... The only issue I'm having is going from dry hits... then to flooding... I think it may be due to cutting my wick too thin... (cellucotton)

Half way through the day at work today I did switch back to the kayfun lite just because I don't feel like fooling around with wicking while at work.... If I can get the v4 to perform as reliably as my kayfun lite it will my ADV... Even though I don't have it dialed in perfectly I can already tell what a great atomizer it is. I would definitely recommend it. I already like it better than the LEMO.

I am going to re-wick it tonight and see what kind of a difference it makes. Will report back.

I do have one question about the juice control.... Is it actually adjustable or is it just open or closed?... Also do I have to dial it until it stops adjusting?

Re-wicked last night with a bit less rayon in the coil and I didn't thin out the wick at all, and it is vaping like a dream! No more leaking or dry hits. Super happy with this atty.

 

[WickedWicks]

Juice control is driving me nuts on Kayfun V4, SS
Every time after closing JC, filling tank, re-opening JC the AFC well is more or less flooded. I'm running a chimney build with a fully wicked chamber, so I tend to believe it's leeking throgh the JC itself not through the build!?

 

[dwcraig1]

Juice control is driving me nuts on Kayfun V4, SS
Every time after closing JC, filling tank, re-opening JC the AFC well is more or less flooded. I'm running a chimney build with a fully wicked chamber, so I tend to believe it's leeking throgh the JC itself not through the build!?

o-ring #16, change to 12 x 1.5 mm, enjoy

 

[TheKiwi]

Got my 4s kit from vaportek today. And this is why you absolutely need to soak ALL your new stuff (except mods hehehe). This is with dishwashing detergent and boiling water.

Not sure if you guys can see all the black specks :/ it's a lot


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[TheKiwi]

HMM. Installed the 4s kit. Airflow is only marginally improved. The main airhole is indeed significantly bigger but alas... The 6 small feeder holes are exactly the same size as the stock center pin. That's def causing most of the restriction :/

The peek insulator also doesn't have the little lip that sticks up to prevent the positive deck from rotating.

Stock:

Vaportek peek:

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[Monotremata]

If the silver plated screw is #1 well it is meant to be adjustable but seeing how it protrudes out some already it shouldn't be necessary in most cases.
But if the tightness or loosness of #1 affects anything other than connectivity,( eg. juice control loosness/tightness) then there is something else not right which would most likely be #9 screw not being locked tight. If tightening #9 causes juice control to "lock up" there are quite a few posts in this thread on how to remedy that.

Is the fix for #9 the shim in the base?? My first one is pissing me off randomly seizing up. Two days ago, tore it all down and rebuilt it. It worked fine the entire night. Got up yesterday for work, and the JC was already stuck!! Took it apart AGAIN last night so time to put it back together now and hope it works.. My #2 Tobeco from Artemus has been problem free..

 

[Marc411]

Is the fix for #9 the shim in the base?? My first one is pissing me off randomly seizing up. Two days ago, tore it all down and rebuilt it. It worked fine the entire night. Got up yesterday for work, and the JC was already stuck!! Took it apart AGAIN last night so time to put it back together now and hope it works.. My #2 Tobeco from Artemus has been problem free..

Replacing 4 & & also help the seizing. Some of the factory seal rings I believe just slightly to thin.

I swapped them out on mine and it's been working real well.

 

[dwcraig1]

Is the fix for #9 the shim in the base?? My first one is pissing me off randomly seizing up. Two days ago, tore it all down and rebuilt it. It worked fine the entire night. Got up yesterday for work, and the JC was already stuck!! Took it apart AGAIN last night so time to put it back together now and hope it works.. My #2 Tobeco from Artemus has been problem free..

Either shim between 3 and 8 or evenly thin #7. Or in extreme cases both.

 

[Monotremata]

Sounds like I got some tinkering to do this weekend!! Reminds me, I still need to order a blue one too!!