Attack of the (Kayfun v4) Clones!

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Croak

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Nov 13, 2012
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Right behind you...
Screw A1 wears many hats, and the way the whole V4 is designed is very interesting. Check for yourself if YOUR wobble is improved by tightening it (obviously not excessively). Mine was, and I was ready to blame sloppy machining.


Here's the Einstein-Witch cut for the cotton wick:

View attachment 413630

Should call that the "Sia wick"

o-SIA-900.jpg
 

Spiceman1967

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May 30, 2014
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Is the fix for #9 the shim in the base?? My first one is pissing me off randomly seizing up. Two days ago, tore it all down and rebuilt it. It worked fine the entire night. Got up yesterday for work, and the JC was already stuck!! Took it apart AGAIN last night so time to put it back together now and hope it works.. My #2 Tobeco from Artemus has been problem free..

One of my Tobecos was perfect and my second one would bind up on the JC after tightening #9. I was gonna thin down #7, but first wanted to compare my two Tobecos. On the one that worked flawlessly, the threaded area of #9 was longer than the one that had the binding issue. I switched #9 between the two and the binding problem followed over to the good Tobecco. I ordered a new #9, dropped it in and JC seizing went away. I can tighten it down tight, and the JC is smooth as silk.

I am not saying this is the fix for everyone, but it was what fixed mine.
 

Yerba

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Feb 20, 2015
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well guys, after 280 pages and 5 obligatory post, I'm finally here to offer you all my sincere and deepest thanks.
Spent a couple of weeks watching reviews on youtube, looking for a good starting point in this business and the V4 got stuck in my mind. Then, looking for more in-depth info, found this place. Didn't really knew the V4 was such a complicated gear, it scares me a little bit yet since this will be my first RBA, But you people made it easy on me, after all the pain it took to many of you to finally figure it out, hence the gratitude.
I currently own a Kanger EMOW and a Kanger Mega starter kits, do my own juice and ready to chase more flavor out of my bucks, not really interested in clouds.
Mail dropped my new Provari P3 Titanium 15 min ago, batteries are charging as I Type, Came with a Nautilus tank to entertain me while getting all the stuffs needed to start building.
So here is my 2 cents of noob matters:
Got a cart waiting on eBay with, what I think, its enough to get me on the road

-Infinite Kayfun V4
-Kanthal wire; gauges 26, 28 and 30
-Koh Gen Do japanese organic cotton (will start with it, then try substitutes, always looking for that elusive explosion of flavor)
-Ohm Reader

No tools, already have drill bits, precision screwdrivers and all kind of scissors to deal with wires

Am I missing something? Maybe spare parts, Read a lot about the infamous #16, not really sure at this point. It's hard to keep up with all the info posted here, specially when I still don't have the gear.
That's it... for now. Any and all advises are more then welcomed. Once again, MANY THANKS for 280 pages of light in this dark place know as "Beggining"
 

bholcomb22

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May 13, 2014
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Denver, CO
well guys, after 280 pages and 5 obligatory post, I'm finally here to offer you all my sincere and deepest thanks.
Spent a couple of weeks watching reviews on youtube, looking for a good starting point in this business and the V4 got stuck in my mind. Then, looking for more in-depth info, found this place. Didn't really knew the V4 was such a complicated gear, it scares me a little bit yet since this will be my first RBA, But you people made it easy on me, after all the pain it took to many of you to finally figure it out, hence the gratitude.
I currently own a Kanger EMOW and a Kanger Mega starter kits, do my own juice and ready to chase more flavor out of my bucks, not really interested in clouds.
Mail dropped my new Provari P3 Titanium 15 min ago, batteries are charging as I Type, Came with a Nautilus tank to entertain me while getting all the stuffs needed to start building.
So here is my 2 cents of noob matters:
Got a cart waiting on eBay with, what I think, its enough to get me on the road

-Infinite Kayfun V4
-Kanthal wire; gauges 26, 28 and 30
-Koh Gen Do japanese organic cotton (will start with it, then try substitutes, always looking for that elusive explosion of flavor)
-Ohm Reader

No tools, already have drill bits, precision screwdrivers and all kind of scissors to deal with wires

Am I missing something? Maybe spare parts, Read a lot about the infamous #16, not really sure at this point. It's hard to keep up with all the info posted here, specially when I still don't have the gear.
That's it... for now. Any and all advises are more then welcomed. Once again, MANY THANKS for 280 pages of light in this dark place know as "Beggining"

Sounds like you will be good to go. That is all you need to start building my friend.
 

Monotremata

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Jul 15, 2014
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Fontana, CA
monotremata.bandcamp.com
One of my Tobecos was perfect and my second one would bind up on the JC after tightening #9. I was gonna thin down #7, but first wanted to compare my two Tobecos. On the one that worked flawlessly, the threaded area of #9 was longer than the one that had the binding issue. I switched #9 between the two and the binding problem followed over to the good Tobecco. I ordered a new #9, dropped it in and JC seizing went away. I can tighten it down tight, and the JC is smooth as silk.

I am not saying this is the fix for everyone, but it was what fixed mine.
Where did you get the spare?
 

dwcraig1

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Mar 17, 2012
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Imperial Beach, California
Ordering one tonight! Last night while putting it together the too short idea popped in my head..

I've been kicking around the idea of just how to post about this since reading Spiceman's post but was concerned about how it would be accepted or what it would sound like.
These are objectives with tightening #9 screw
1s.The square flat surfaces of #3 & #8 .... solidly together, this is the ground path of the coil.
2nd. The #9 screw is locked tight so it doesn't back out with use.
3rd. The juice control moves freely.
So if #9 screw bottoms in it's threaded hole then parts #3 & #9 are not solidly butted together. the longer bottomed out #9 would be like if you just tighten #9 just enough to still let the juice control have free movement but with out wanting to back out during use.

Short story: #3 & #9 should be solidly together before #9 bottoms in it's hole.

Thinning #7 would be the first route I would go.

Edit: I've pulled #9 from my working Tobeco as well as two new #9's from the parts bags and measured their length, they are 3.64, 3.66, and 3.67 mm, close enough to be called the same.
 
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