Attack of the (Kayfun v4) Clones!

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Spiceman1967

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Lemo Drop
10982359_970393302984894_2679858419401648974_n.jpg

I have near that many tanks not pictured, then there's the drippers. Still not finished cleaning all of them.
Then I need to polish the tube mods. I need a nice box.
Dwcraig, did you say "box"? From what I have seen in various postings of your collection, I think you need another "wing" on your house to store all your stuff :vapor: :toast:
 

bsidb

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I must have lost it or something ( my Mind) what I thought was open and closed on my KF4 seems to have switched , for the last day i have spent alot of time

re-wicking,disassembling,,o-ring replacment,etc, x3, DRy hits is/was the problem/reason for all this madness and now with the KF4 in what I thought was the closed

position is wicking fine, it has never leaked ,just dry hitts or the warning extended sizzle rather:blink:
 

Fernand

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Best way to remember is how you must hold the device by the bottom 510 connector and unscrew D38 to open top and add liquid. That's also the (counterclockwise) direction that A5 must be turned against the base to close off liquid, to block juice from leaking out.

Then once you have added juice you screw on the tip D38 and twist A5 (or the whole atomizer) in the same (clockwise) direction against the base to open juice flow again. If you go back to this it's easy to refresh your memory. You can mark an arrow on the bottom with a sharp tool ----> +
 
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bsidb

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with the drip tip up , turning the base counter clockwise till it stops is the only way my KF4 will feed correctly( no dry hitts), if I turn it all the way clockwise I cant remove the base,and it dry hits, it has never leaked

Im not sure what happened or why this is working
 
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capthook

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So my A9 came loose again. 2nd time now. Could tell from the slight wobble when closing the JC to fill.
And a tiny weep from JC airholes when operating.
Thinking I might put a dab of locktight down there on it.
I don't need anything but the 501 connection, and I guess that's the only reason to loosen A9, change the connector.

Also, my oring #16. I haven't really had problems with it .. yet.
I did forget to 'lube' the oring after a cleaning. Just that miss caused a tiny leak into section A.
Re-cleaned and lubed, fine again.
However, it does seem to be slightly undersized as an original size standpoint.
Just looking at it, it barely seals - it is almost flush with the outer body.
I don't have spares *gasp*. From what I gather the replacement is: 15mm*12mm*1.5mm (or is it 11mm*1.5mm ?)
Also wonder if 1.6mm width might actually be best?

eta: that's Loctite. And the blue is 'removable' with a bit of force, the red - not so much (lots of force)
Gonna put some blue on once it warms up from being in the shed ha!
 
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ThunderDan

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MattB101

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Hi mate, how did you move the mounting hole over? Got any pics? Also I ordered 2 of these will they work ok?

https://www.fasttech.com/products/3023/10011689/2095500
Looks like it would. Almost an exact clone of the Fat Daddy Vapes 510. Not the latest one though. I almost exclusively use the FDV 510 in my mods. The quality is just there. No problems and lots of different thread lengths.

Summertime, summertime, sum, sum, summertime. I can't wait for summertime!
 

Marc411

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The FD is a great 510 and Varitube also has a nice 510 with a lower profile deck that's nice. I have both on hand, used the FD for my recent DNA build and have several on hand.... just in case.

Varitube Low Profile with Self-adjusting-Center-Pin

I plan on matching one up with a SX350J chip once they are released.
 

Light Seeker

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Month & a half later, finally recieved my ft order of colored glass! [emoji1] Damn u, Chinese NY!

2 out of 3 stock glass inserts have broken with dropsies, & my girls -wife & daughter - have stripped threading in the plastic sleeves from over torquing. Finally can see my juice levels again!

The FT glass looks great, & slightly thicker than the stock tobeco glass. And black glass on a black k4 looks so much better than clear [emoji3]
 

boogalu

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Hey guys, ive read this entire thread in all of its glory of information but i couldnt find an answer to a small problem of mine...im having leaking and i thought it was coming out of the air holes but its actually coming out of the gap right underneath the air holes, right on top of part number 3 from the picture manual. does anyone have any kind of experience with that? thanks in advance!

edit - just reading it, i realized i didnt have enough details, when the juice control is fully open no leaking whatsoever, but when i close it and then open the juice control, a very small amount of juice seems to be "squeezed"out from the top of the base right under the air hole ring.

hopefully that made more sense.
 
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Monotremata

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Hey guys, ive read this entire thread in all of its glory of information but i couldnt find an answer to a small problem of mine...im having leaking and i thought it was coming out of the air holes but its actually coming out of the gap right underneath the air holes, right on top of part number 3 from the picture manual. does anyone have any kind of experience with that? thanks in advance!

edit - just reading it, i realized i didnt have enough details, when the juice control is fully open no leaking whatsoever, but when i close it and then open the juice control, a very small amount of juice seems to be "squeezed"out from the top of the base right under the air hole ring.

hopefully that made more sense.
I THINK that's oring #16s fault, but don't quote me. :)
 
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