Attack of the (Kayfun v4) Clones!

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Monotremata

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whats new about the updated EHPRO Kfun4, whats the update?

The nut that holds the chimney/top together didnt have the flat sides on it to let the tank properly create the vacuum. There was something wrong with the base as well, but I cant remember the exact issue it had something to do with the juice control and removing the deck.
 

cobalt327

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The flats have been added to the threads of the top nut (510 adapter), they were missing on some of the first ones. The flats allow the adapter to be tightened down w/o it causing a build up of pressure that flooded it. And some had a too-tight juice control ring. The fix for that was posted here. Not all of them have a problem w/the juice ring, and it's not just the EHPROs- several clones have had this problem.
 

ricks

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The flats have been added to the threads of the top nut (510 adapter), they were missing on some of the first ones. The flats allow the adapter to be tightened down w/o it causing a build up of pressure that flooded it. And some had a too-tight juice control ring. The fix for that was posted here. Not all of them have a problem w/the juice ring, and it's not just the EHPROs- several clones have had this problem.

I've only heard of the EHPROS having those issues. Who else did?
 

Monotremata

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I've only heard of the EHPROS having those issues. Who else did?
The EHPro I believe had the whole AFC/juice control fused together so you couldn't even take it apart, definitely not the same as part #9 loosening itself.. Garemlin has one maybe hell chime in. He had to get both the top nut and base replaced..
 

juicynoos

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The flats have been added to the threads of the top nut (510 adapter), they were missing on some of the first ones. [The flats allow the adapter to be tightened down w/o it causing a build up of pressure that flooded it. And some had a too-tight juice control ring. The fix for that was posted [/Bhere. Not all of them have a problem w/the juice ring, and it's not just the EHPROs- several clones have had this problem.

Except the juice control is supposed to be closed off in any case during the filling process and so flooding the build deck shouldn't happen during that process right.I don't see how allowing air to escape in the K4 design builds the pressure needed to feed juice to the wicks with this design feature, it contradicts the way all previous versions functioned.
 

doofy666

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Except the juice control is supposed to be closed off in any case during the filling process and so flooding the build deck shouldn't happen during that process right.I don't see how allowing air to escape in the K4 design builds the pressure needed to feed juice to the wicks with this design feature, it contradicts the way all previous versions functioned.

Without the flats on the top nut, pressure builds up in the tank when the nut is tightened and juice floods out of the air holes despite the juice control being closed off.

The last turn of the top nut is against an oring which seals the tank.
 

juicynoos

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I understand what you're saying, but..when you fill a kayfun lite + (for example), the tank is inverted and is filled from the bottom and juice capacity is larger as a result. I just filled the K4 right to the top and inverted it after screwing the top nut back on, then when inverted there is a 1/4 inch of empty tank still!!

Also. absent are the bubbles when pressure is released by removing the top nut and allowing the vacuum to escape, I.m a bit 'cafuddled' by the zee German engineering on this one:D
 

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juicynoos

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With all the talk about which clone is better I think everyone should watch this. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lhnBKXxOJiM I laughed when the lady was asked where do you get the specs or authentic from to make your products...that says it all.

Checked out the first 3 parts and was great to get that link to the most recent, otherwise might not have found it for some time! There isn't much wrong with those machine shops and the girls-oh so pretty!!!
Of course they clone from whoever procures the authentic's on their behalf..I don't believe she was telling the truth but rather trying to make a point. More likely the 1st originals came from across the pond:)
 
Need help with the top nut oring #36 won't seal I've replaced it with one I ordered from oring store and still leaks. IMG_20150324_215246870.jpg
 

cobalt327

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Need help with the top nut oring #36 won't seal I've replaced it with one I ordered from oring store and still leaks.View attachment 422243
Also check the groove to be sure nothing's in it, and look for any sharp metal that might have been left from machining. And be sure it's not #37 leaking, the edges where the threads were removed can be very sharp and will easily cut the O-ring.
 
Also check the groove to be sure nothing's in it, and look for any sharp metal that might have been left from machining. And be sure it's not #37 leaking, the edges where the threads were removed can be very sharp and will easily cut the O-ring.
It's coming through #36 oring the machining on oring groove is large and kinda egg shaped and also oring #36 is butting against threads on chimney stem is this normal? I could try a thicker #36 oring but don't know what size to keep the same inner diameter.
 

juicynoos

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Hi, the o ring should sit snugly on the chimney stem and you might use the chimney section to push the o ring in to the groove and seat itself correctly,

j3KqVNp.jpg
[/IMG]

Make certain there is no gap between either the o ring and top cap assembly or the chimney top or else try using another o ring of the correct spec (5x1.5mm)
 

ricks

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