Attack of the (Kayfun v4) Clones!

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cobalt327

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I have both of those the Knurled and the Stainless from FDV. The knurled are perfectly flat on the bottom and cover a big area. Once the coil is in place they are still too tiny for me to get my fingers on for a proper tightening, I end up using my Leatherman's needle nose pliers instead of a Phillips screwdriver.

The 12 pack of stainless are nice as the tops are machined quite well as opposed to a sloppy Phillips head on half of the clone screws. They are still not as flat on the bottom as they should be but better than most.

Knurled on my 3.1
9UUM4H0.jpg


The best solution I have found to fixing the kayfun decks is to cut a groove next to the screw with a small file. I used a triangle file but I think a small rat tail would be better.
rLRqo7h.jpg

This way you just pull the wire around the head part way, place it into the groove and tighten.
AqwlG28.jpg

A perfect capture every time, even with twisted or parallel.

I was told that the reason my wires didn't capture properly was that I had a clone and not an Authentic. Oh well what can you do... :D

The cheese head ones from @Grendel6.5 or the Screws of destiny from @tchavei as well as @doofy666 and the cap screws would all perform better than the FDV ones IMHO. I have stopped using the knurled after cutting the grooves in my posts and have gone back to the regular FDV stainless.
Hell of a good, useful post- and real good photography! I get shots that good maybe 1 out of 10. Don't know what I'm doing wrong, probably something w/the settings I'm using. Might be time to hunt down the owners manual... ;)
 

cobalt327

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*SNIP*
That's very clever. I think that the whole idea of capturing the legs under screws should be revisited by designers--no matter what you do or how good a screw is, there is always a risk of pulling that leg while tightening the screw and thus distorting the coil. The problem is that everyone is just copying svoemesto's original design without thinking... Only Kanger tried to improve that capture mechanism--the SubTank is quite cleverly designed. I think they should have grooves/channels for the wire and a simpler way to fasten the leg without mangling the coil in the process. *SNIP*
This. If they would just take a look at how terminal blocks or circuit breakers secure the wires, they'd see there are better ways- ways that do not impart a twisting force on the wires being secured.
 

Monotremata

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This. If they would just take a look at how terminal blocks or circuit breakers secure the wires, they'd see there are better ways- ways that do not impart a twisting force on the wires being secured.

You can kind of minimize it by leaving it on the drill bit/coiler/whatever you wrapped the coil around but mine STILL always end up a little skewed and angled just because of the way it goes down..
 
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capthook

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This is the best atty I've ever used. The vape is smooth, quiet and oh so flavorful.

I want to replace the screws on Kayfun 4, Erlkonigin, and Lemo.

So glad you like the K4!!! (better late than never :wub:)
It is a 'tinkerer' kind of tank for sure though.
What's the word on the Erl?
 

Katya

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So glad you like the K4!!! (better late than never :wub:)
It is a 'tinkerer' kind of tank for sure though.
What's the word on the Erl?

:lol:

Funny you should ask!
proxy.php


Took me a couple of tries, had a few disastrous juice dumps from the bottom somewhere, but I finally got it to work--I think.
proxy.php
I need to play with it a bit more to figure out what went wrong, but I can already tell you this much: when and if it works, it's a dream vape. I love the small form factor, the simplicity of design, and the flavor it delivers. I'm just constantly worried that it will leak--maybe I should replace those red (thin) o-rings that came with the nano version. They are so flimsy.

I'll report in the Erl thread soon--got temporarily distracted by my K4.
proxy.php
 

Grendel6.5

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If anyone knows a place or has a M3 stainless steel screw 35 mm long or longer I'd like to get a few. The Amazon link that Grendel posted has them by the 100 and want $15 to ship them to Canada. I only need two or three and will never have a use for the rest. A cheese head version would be perfect, but a regular machine head will work as well. I could also use brass if there were any available.

Thanks!
M3 x 35mm Pan Head Screws - Stainless Steel - 4 Pack - FrozenCPU.com
Or... these cheeseheads from ebay shipping 3.79 to canada.
m.ebay.com/itm/Stainless-Steel-Metric-Cheese-Head-Machine-Screws-M3-x-0-5-x-35mm-20-Pack-/171023803104
 
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Grendel6.5

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I like these. So 4 mm is the correct length? I've seen many people recommending M1.6-3.5; 3 mm. But I'd rather have a longer screw if it fits. I want to replace the screws on Kayfun 4, Erlkonigin, and Lemo.

Tchavei and Doofy--those are nice, but I'd rather buy locally... Whenever I see the price listed in Euros, I get nervous. :)
Mine came with 3mm long screws. I replaced them with 4mm screws so i would have better thread engagement. They still screw all the way down as well.
 

TrollDragon

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Sorry--I wouldn't even know where to look. But if you find something in the US, I'll be happy to order them and ship them to you.

Thank you very much Katya for your very generous offer!
I think Grendel has found me a solution.

Hell of a good, useful post- and real good photography! I get shots that good maybe 1 out of 10. Don't know what I'm doing wrong, probably something w/the settings I'm using. Might be time to hunt down the owners manual... ;)
Thanks cobalt327,
You are probably really doing nothing wrong, I just got lucky with the knurled one. I am using an archaic HTC Desire HD for my pics and most times it really likes to pick its own focal point. I used to use the wife's camera to take pics at the shop and ones day I had set it down on a little fine saw dust on the bench. That didn't harm the camera in any way, just stuck to the bottom a little... Well that put an end to taking the camera down to the shop. ;)

M3 x 35mm Pan Head Screws - Stainless Steel - 4 Pack - FrozenCPU.com
Or... these cheeseheads from ebay shipping 3.79 to canada.
m.ebay.com/itm/Stainless-Steel-Metric-Cheese-Head-Machine-Screws-M3-x-0-5-x-35mm-20-Pack-/171023803104

The Google/eBay Fu is very strong with this one! :headbang:

Many Thanks!
The cheese heads are ordered and they ship out of Montreal!
:toast:
 

VaPreis

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I received my Tobeco Kayfun V4 Clone from Vapor Range today. The one I received is the polished verison, not matte. I would have been happy with either finish.

I am impressed with this clone. It arrived clean and looks great. Finish seems a bit nicer then the Focal Ecig clone I first bought. Threading is a bit smoother too. I installed the glass tank, stuck a build in it, and I've encountered zero issues so far.

For $9.95? Once of the best vape purchases I've made in awhile.
 

tchavei

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Careful with the erlk.

Although the negative post hole will accept a 5mm long M1.6 screw, the positive won't and you risk damaging the delrin insulator. I think I cut that particular screw down to about 3.5mm or 4 mm so that it would sit flush with the positive pole bottom.

Regards
Tony

Sent from my keyboard through my phone or something like that.
 

TrollDragon

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Hey @cobalt327,

Sorry for the OT post but I used to do a lot of vacuum tube pictures and audio (Headphone) pictures over on Head-Fi and my Instagram account. We would roll (swap) a pile of tubes through our Little Dot audio amplifiers, I have the LD MK IV version.

There would be a lot of closeup pictures of vacuum tubes taken and I could never really master getting filament glow down like some of the others could.

0ttVNns.jpg


My best glow picture which is not really all that good.
nGJfxoL.jpg


I like close up work but you have to have a tripod and use a remote shutter release for best results. If there is no shutter release available then use the cameras timer function.
 
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Katya

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Thank you very much Katya for your very generous offer!
I think Grendel has found me a solution.

Not at all. We help each other--just paying it forward. Or trying to pay it forward. ;)

Glad to hear you found a solution. Good luck!
 

Katya

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Careful with the erlk.

Although the negative post hole will accept a 5mm long M1.6 screw, the positive won't and you risk damaging the delrin insulator. I think I cut that particular screw down to about 3.5mm or 4 mm so that it would sit flush with the positive pole bottom.

Regards
Tony

Sent from my keyboard through my phone or something like that.

Thanks for the warning. So, will the 4 mm screw work on the Erlk?

I'm also worried about how close those screw tops are to the terminals... I don't want any shorts.

ETA: I could just replace the negative post screw... Once one leg is secure, the other one is easy.
 
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Monotremata

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Hey @cobalt327,

Sorry for the OT post but I used to do a lot of vacuum tube pictures and audio (Headphone) pictures over on Head-Fi and my Instagram account. We would roll (swap) a pile of tubes through our Little Dot audio amplifiers, I have the LD MK IV version.

There would be a lot of closeup pictures of vacuum tubes taken and I could never really master getting filament glow down like some of the others could.

0ttVNns.jpg


My best glow picture which is not really all that good.
nGJfxoL.jpg


I like close up work but you have to have a tripod and use a remote shutter release for best results. If there is no shutter release available then use the cameras timer function.

GIVE ME THAT GE SO I CAN PUT IT IN MY MARSHALL!!!!
 

tchavei

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Thanks for the warning. So, will the 4 mm screw work on the Erlk?

I'm also worried about how close those screw tops are to the terminals... I don't want any shorts.

ETA: I could just replace the negative post screw... Once one leg is secure, the other one is easy.

Like I said, I'm not sure if it was 3.5mm or 4mm. I would order the 4mm sized ones and then file one screw down, if needed. filing 0.5mm should be pretty easy to do in a couple of minutes so no worries. The first time, I would remove the positive block and then screw in the new screw and check if it doesn't protrude in the bottom. If it doesn't, you're good to go. If it does, file it down and keep checking with the positive block. Once its flush or a little recessed, you're good to go.

A good quality screw will make a huge difference in the building process, trust me. :)

Regards
Tony
 
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