I think that just about everyone that has used polyfill cartos knows that it's SS underneath the black wrapper. It's obviously not difficult to remove the sticker, but it's just something that I'd rather not do if I don't have to and I'm sure that there are others that feel the same.
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I think that just about everyone that has used polyfill cartos knows that it's SS underneath the black wrapper. It's obviously not difficult to remove the sticker, but it's just something that I'd rather not do if I don't have to and I'm sure that there are others that feel the same.
You state the obvious. Now let me state what I thought was the obvious but apparently not to everybody. If the company is CLAIMING to sell "Boge 2.0" cartos and in fact is sending customers a cheaper, less quality, different product.... well then they are not all the same are they.
My bad, I didn't see post 25 & 30 sorry about that, I was only on the next page so I never saw these post my fault for stepping in late, but ya having to peel the stickers off is a bit of a pain I guess I use to do it a ways back, they peel almost all the way off then tear and I had to use some PGA to rub the rest off. Ehh that's why I'm an Atty guy I guess. I have so many dam new cartos lying around they will probably become worthless by the time I ever get around to using them anyways
Lastly I think its a real joke people are all paying $15 for a 5pack of these new dual coil cartos, they add one tiny wire and now they cost $15 for a 5pack
cut me a break, in 30 days they will be for sale for half that. Again, why I would go to eastmall or China and pay 0.80 for them the way I always have done.!
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"...Why don't you just plug one of the side holes on the carto with a wooden tooth pick? ..."
Hmm, maybe not a bad idea. I have often just bridged some solder across 2 or 3 of the four holes. A little messy with a carto, though, because the black colored wrapper starts to melt/shrink. Come to think of it, I usually shrink some clear heatshrink tubing over my cartos to prevent bite marks in the wrapper - starts to look pretty nasty if you spend a lot of time with your vaporette clamped between your teeth because your hands are both occupied. The tough heatshrink tubing might just help keep things together if I solder the holes AFTER putting it on. Or some Zap-a-Gap acrylic epoxy might work, too. I use auto-batts to keep from having to find and press the button on a manual all the time - an action foreign to ones done when smoking a cigarette. I digress - as usual - anyhow, Noking ("not smoking") for me has got to be as close to the same as smoking in order to leave the nasty things alone. Over a year and a half and still no longer "bacco-bound"!
Anyhow, the toothpix might stop the "wheezing" sound but there's still the snap, crackle, pop of the juice boiling on the coil. Reckon it's just the price to pay for getting a good hot hit.
c-ya,
Rick
Hmm, maybe not a bad idea. I have often just bridged some solder across 2 or 3 of the four holes. A little messy with a carto, though, because the black colored wrapper starts to melt/shrink. Come to think of it, I usually shrink some clear heatshrink tubing over my cartos to prevent bite marks in the wrapper - starts to look pretty nasty if you spend a lot of time with your vaporette clamped between your teeth because your hands are both occupied. The tough heatshrink tubing might just help keep things together if I solder the holes AFTER putting it on. Or some Zap-a-Gap acrylic epoxy might work, too. I use auto-batts to keep from having to find and press the button on a manual all the time - an action foreign to ones done when smoking a cigarette. I digress - as usual - anyhow, Noking ("not smoking") for me has got to be as close to the same as smoking in order to leave the nasty things alone. Over a year and a half and still no longer "bacco-bound"!
Anyhow, the toothpix might stop the "wheezing" sound but there's still the snap, crackle, pop of the juice boiling on the coil. Reckon it's just the price to pay for getting a good hot hit.
c-ya,
Rick
And you fail to read the obvious. The original poster posted because he suspected that he might not have legit product and the concern was unfounded, the packaging and description turned out to be correct. There is no money in counterfeiting BOGE cartos and no one is doing this. If in your great wisdom you think someone is doing this, go ahead and post it!
Whoever posted EM as selling BOGE LRs ummm they do not and have not for some time! Pay attention to LR vs standard!
I am still selling the rest of my (genuine lol) BOGE LR Stainless cartomizers if anyone wants. I will sell at less than anyone stores that have stock, just PM me thanks.
It's not old fashioned. That's what a cartomizer is. If you want a CE-2, order a CE2.
I haven't seen CE2s with low resistance or I probably would have. 
The only thing I don't like about the ones I've tried is the double looped "yarn" that serves as the wick. After not too long the yarn/wick gets burnt and builds up with hardened juice and won't suck up the juice very well so you have to trash it.
I *guess* these are indeed Boges - though I found no text or markings on the connector as one responder intimated. The connector is silver colored, not gold irridited. I measured the resistance on 4 of them. Only one was 2.1ohms, the other three were 2.2, 2.3 and 2.4. Better than the standard m-series which are usually around 2.8 to 3.2ohms, though. M-series atties seem to work best if you can pull at least an amp through the coils. The m batteries are 2.8V fully charged which gives you 1A (1000mA) with a 2.8 ohm atty but less as the charge depletes and the voltage drops.
So... The first carto crapped out after 5-6 refills. Got really hard to draw through. I've seen this on old kr8 cartos. The fabric cylinder going down the middle gets misaligned and covers the hole. I'm guessing it can be either from inadvertently shoving it with tweezers when pulling the cap to refill or also when the nylon tube thingie starts to get burnt, it shrinks just like when you burn the end of a nylon rope. This tends to pull the wire for the coil down and over to one side - the side the coil is on and the burn is. Possibly I snagged it once with my tweezers, though.
Anyhow, so I fired up a second one.......literally. No kiddin', I filled it with a good amount of juice, started to drag and it smoked - not vapor! - like crazy even after the atty shut off and I smelled nylon. Used it for awhile anyway but it worked really wimpily (is that a word? is now, I reckon! lol) so I bagged that one. The 3rd one works like a charm (2 days) as the first one did b4 it got plugged. I sorta modded this 3rd one in that I took one of those thick, flat rubber washers (flat on one side, cupped on the other) that came out of some old cartos I saved parts from and inserted it, cupped side down, over the top of the packing so that the nylon webbed tube is lined up straight. I'm hoping that this will serve to keep the nylon web cylinder aligned and prevent the problem I had with the first carto. If these are Boges, I was surprised to find that there was no rubber washer under the soft plastic end cap like I've seen on some other cartos (old kr808-D2 "Green Smoke" and, also, Litecig has 'em). Not too big a deal but still an unexpected omission.
Not too bad other than the "booby-trapped" one - lol. Definitely, the lower resistance does wonders for TH and vapor when using an m-401 batt and with the 501 (3.1V to 3.4V, I expect - haven't thought to measure yet) it's outta sight!
Lots more pages than when I last looked - now to read them....
C-ya,
Rick
The only thing I don't like about the ones I've tried is the double looped "yarn" that serves as the wick. After not too long the yarn/wick gets burnt and builds up with hardened juice and won't suck up the juice very well so you have to trash it.I *guess* these are indeed Boges - though I found no text or markings on the connector as one responder intimated. The connector is silver colored, not gold irridited. I measured the resistance on 4 of them. Only one was 2.1ohms, the other three were 2.2, 2.3 and 2.4. Better than the standard m-series which are usually around 2.8 to 3.2ohms, though. M-series atties seem to work best if you can pull at least an amp through the coils. The m batteries are 2.8V fully charged which gives you 1A (1000mA) with a 2.8 ohm atty but less as the charge depletes and the voltage drops.
So... The first carto crapped out after 5-6 refills. Got really hard to draw through. I've seen this on old kr8 cartos. The fabric cylinder going down the middle gets misaligned and covers the hole. I'm guessing it can be either from inadvertently shoving it with tweezers when pulling the cap to refill or also when the nylon tube thingie starts to get burnt, it shrinks just like when you burn the end of a nylon rope. This tends to pull the wire for the coil down and over to one side - the side the coil is on and the burn is. Possibly I snagged it once with my tweezers, though.
Anyhow, so I fired up a second one.......literally. No kiddin', I filled it with a good amount of juice, started to drag and it smoked - not vapor! - like crazy even after the atty shut off and I smelled nylon. Used it for awhile anyway but it worked really wimpily (is that a word? is now, I reckon! lol) so I bagged that one. The 3rd one works like a charm (2 days) as the first one did b4 it got plugged. I sorta modded this 3rd one in that I took one of those thick, flat rubber washers (flat on one side, cupped on the other) that came out of some old cartos I saved parts from and inserted it, cupped side down, over the top of the packing so that the nylon webbed tube is lined up straight. I'm hoping that this will serve to keep the nylon web cylinder aligned and prevent the problem I had with the first carto. If these are Boges, I was surprised to find that there was no rubber washer under the soft plastic end cap like I've seen on some other cartos (old kr808-D2 "Green Smoke" and, also, Litecig has 'em). Not too big a deal but still an unexpected omission.
Not too bad other than the "booby-trapped" one - lol. Definitely, the lower resistance does wonders for TH and vapor when using an m-401 batt and with the 501 (3.1V to 3.4V, I expect - haven't thought to measure yet) it's outta sight!
Lots more pages than when I last looked - now to read them....
C-ya,
Rick
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I'm not sure if I like these Boge 2.0 LR cartos I got. Seems like they let too much air pass through when vaping.
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