Bulli Smoker A2 – DIY Atomiser, similar to the Nhaler Ato-miser

[Bowlcut3x]

I too have been trying to find where to purchase some silica yarn. I did purchase some from McMaster-Carr as from a link on how to rebuild your atomizer somewhere in here. However, when I received the rope it seems like its fiberglass. It is nothing like what is in the atomizers. It is frail and pulls apart very easily. I am wondering if something like Fire Resistant Modacrylic Yarn would work. I would really like to know where to get some of the silica yarn that comes in the CE2 cartomizers. I also recently purchased the Ato-Miser and it comes with some really good silica yarn/twine/thread or whatever its called, but definitely not a rope. (Would've bought the Bulli A2 but had no atomizers left and couldn't wait that long for its shipping.)
I see silica also being sold on MSC and McAllisterMills but I'm not sure if these are the same thing I purchased from McMaster-Carr, but they are still ropes and not yarn or twine type like in the CE2s. Anyone try these yet?
Thanks for all the help on this forum.

 

[atavanhalen]

The stuff that Cetin sells is fiberglass, I have actually read somewhere that silica rope and fiberglass ropoe are almost the same thing but do not quote me on that. I have both ce2s and the wick from bulli-smoker.com and they look identical to me so I would say that they also use fiberglass in the ce2s. People hear the word fiberglass and think really bad things but I do not think that it is a concern, the fiberglass that is in insulation and drywall are small little pieces that get in your skin and cause irritation and the fiberglass wicks are longer thicker wound strands that do not cause the same effect at least in my experience. So I guess what I am saying is that I personally am searching for fiberglass rope or string because the only hint that Cetin has given is that it is the same fiberglass rope that is used in traditional atomizers. As far as the ato mizer wicks, I did not have much luck with them, I am having much better success with the rope style that you get with the a2 and that you find in ce2s. I actually removed the wick and coil from a ce2 and installed it on my a2 and have also used the wick from a ce2 and wrapped my own coil. The latter worked much better. I actually found a ecig company in China that is willing to sell the wick from there clearomizers by the meter but it is not much cheaper than what bulli-smoker.com sells it for. We need to find their supplier but when I asked about that her answer was I am sorry but they only speak chinese.

I too have been trying to find where to purchase some silica yarn. I did purchase some from McMaster-Carr as from a link on how to rebuild your atomizer somewhere in here. However, when I received the rope it seems like its fiberglass. It is nothing like what is in the atomizers. It is frail and pulls apart very easily. I am wondering if something like Fire Resistant Modacrylic Yarn would work. I would really like to know where to get some of the silica yarn that comes in the CE2 cartomizers. I also recently purchased the Ato-Miser and it comes with some really good silica yarn/twine/thread or whatever its called, but definitely not a rope. (Would've bought the Bulli A2 but had no atomizers left and couldn't wait that long for its shipping.)
I see silica also being sold on MSC and McAllisterMills but I'm not sure if these are the same thing I purchased from McMaster-Carr, but they are still ropes and not yarn or twine type like in the CE2s. Anyone try these yet?
Thanks for all the help on this forum.

 

[SteveMacc]

There appears to be a US company, Wicks for Candles and Oil Lamps - Earth's Largest Selection of Industrial Wicking and Cords - WickStore.com, that sells 1/16 in fibreglass wick. 100yds for $28.50. Might be OK, although I think 1/16 is thicker than the original.

 

[BigBopper]

...I think 1/16 is thicker than the original.

What I received from Cetin appears to be ~1/32". Thicker may not be a bad thing though. Have you seen the new CE2-X cartos? They do have a thicker wick. I'm not sure how thick it is, but it is thicker.

I tried the tank mod, and it's going pretty good. With this setup, I'm thinking the thicker wick would actually work better. Maybe I'll order some to try, or see if I can get a sampler.

Al

 

[atavanhalen]

There appears to be a US company, Wicks for Candles and Oil Lamps - Earth's Largest Selection of Industrial Wicking and Cords - WickStore.com, that sells 1/16 in fibreglass wick. 100yds for $28.50. Might be OK, although I think 1/16 is thicker than the original.

I just contacted the store asking if they could obtain 1/32 diameter twisted fg rope and will let you know when I hear back. Also if someone orders the 1/16 it would be great if they would sell me a small amount so I can see if I would like to order it myself

 

[atavanhalen]

The wickstore does sell 10yard hanks for 11 bucks so I am just gonna order that and see what it works like, the only thing is that the wick that they sell is braided and the a2 wick is twisted, i dunno if that will affect performance but we shall see.

 

[Para]

Just found out something about the Bulli A2. I have made some new coils. They worked well at first but dropped off very quickly. I thought it was the juice burning on and went through cleaning and dry burning like you do. No real improvement. Puzzling. Then I took a meter to it and found that the resistance had increased substantially from when I made it. The cause, it turned out was that the screws, while initially tight, seem to loosen a bit under heat, so retightening them while the thing was still warm did the trick. Back to vaping like it was brand new.

You guys probably already knew this, but it has had me puzzled for a few days.

Haven't run into it yet; but that's a dang fine job of troubleshooting you did

 

[SteveMacc]

My Bulli started to develop a very tight draw today. After ages messing about with coil placement and hole positioning, I realised what it was. A bit of lemon from my drink had got stuck in the mouthpiece slit. Should be a filter on this slit... Another troubleshooting triumph..

On the subject of wicks, you need to test what you are getting before you buy a lot. Some of the wicks sold have a chemical treatment that prevents them wicking e-juice like we would want.

Kerosene is a lot thinner than e-juice, so probably wicks more easily. Braiding might not be a problem for kerosene but might be an issue with thicker liquids.

Some wicks are constructed with parallel internal fibres and an outer braided cover. These would be OK for lamps where the liquid is burnt from the end (the exposed parallel fibres) but might not work so well when liquid is drawn from the side, as in the atty. Worth a try though.

 

[atavanhalen]

True true but at the price that this stuff cost (28$ for 100 yards) I am not that worried about it.

My Bulli started to develop a very tight draw today. After ages messing about with coil placement and hole positioning, I realised what it was. A bit of lemon from my drink had got stuck in the mouthpiece slit. Should be a filter on this slit... Another troubleshooting triumph..

On the subject of wicks, you need to test what you are getting before you buy a lot. Some of the wicks sold have a chemical treatment that prevents them wicking e-juice like we would want.

Kerosene is a lot thinner than e-juice, so probably wicks more easily. Braiding might not be a problem for kerosene but might be an issue with thicker liquids.

 

[Bowlcut3x]

The stuff that Cetin sells is fiberglass, I have actually read somewhere that silica rope and fiberglass ropoe are almost the same thing but do not quote me on that. I have both ce2s and the wick from bulli-smoker.com and they look identical to me so I would say that they also use fiberglass in the ce2s. People hear the word fiberglass and think really bad things but I do not think that it is a concern, the fiberglass that is in insulation and drywall are small little pieces that get in your skin and cause irritation and the fiberglass wicks are longer thicker wound strands that do not cause the same effect at least in my experience. So I guess what I am saying is that I personally am searching for fiberglass rope or string because the only hint that Cetin has given is that it is the same fiberglass rope that is used in traditional atomizers. As far as the ato mizer wicks, I did not have much luck with them, I am having much better success with the rope style that you get with the a2 and that you find in ce2s. I actually removed the wick and coil from a ce2 and installed it on my a2 and have also used the wick from a ce2 and wrapped my own coil. The latter worked much better. I actually found a ecig company in China that is willing to sell the wick from there clearomizers by the meter but it is not much cheaper than what bulli-smoker.com sells it for. We need to find their supplier but when I asked about that her answer was I am sorry but they only speak chinese.

There appears to be a US company, Wicks for Candles and Oil Lamps - Earth's Largest Selection of Industrial Wicking and Cords - WickStore.com, that sells 1/16 in fibreglass wick. 100yds for $28.50. Might be OK, although I think 1/16 is thicker than the original.

Thank you. I am not too sure if there is a difference between the fiberglass and the silica. All I know is that the stuff I brought from McMaster-Carr was very frail and difficult to even get the NiCrome to wrap around it without it pulling apart.
Though I did also just use the wicks from my CE2's also as you did until I received the Ato Mizer which came with some good wicks. In videos they said they would provide the wicks to be purchased however I have searched their site and could not find any links.

I will also try out the wick store and I think just keep searching.
Thanks everyone.

 

[Bowlcut3x]

You guys gave me an idea to search for wick instead of rope. I found this site (aftosa.com) sells 1/16" fiberglass wick by the foot for around $0.40
Oh, and the differences between fiberglass and silica are that fiberglass is just that, glass fibers, and silica is a chemical compound of silicone and oxygen (SiO2).

 

[PlanetScribbles]

I received mine yesterday, this is great. As is customary for me I replaced the wick which I initially used for a day. It was giving nice vapour at 3.7v but a little harsh at 6v. It initially had six turns in the coil so I made a new one with seven turns.
It works great at 6v now
I guestimate that one turn of the wire equates to about 0.6 ohm, so seven turns would come in at around 4.2 ohms? I don't have a multimeter yet you see.

 

[roadrash]

You guys gave me an idea to search for wick instead of rope. I found this site (aftosa.com) sells 1/16" fiberglass wick by the foot for around $0.40
Oh, and the differences between fiberglass and silica are that fiberglass is just that, glass fibers, and silica is a chemical compound of silicone and oxygen (SiO2).

Nice find on the wick. just the right size for looping.

 

[Dudeman]

I'm starting to get anxious about the arrival of my A2. It's been 10 days so I have to assume it's been shipped by now. I've been rebuilding 510 attys and CE2 cartos for a while. It will be nice to work with something more managable for a change.

 

[atavanhalen]

I'm starting to get anxious about the arrival of my A2. It's been 10 days so I have to assume it's been shipped by now. I've been rebuilding 510 attys and CE2 cartos for a while. It will be nice to work with something more managable for a change.

I have ordered 2 A2s the first one took 5 days after it was shipped but the second one took 21 days after it was shipped so I wish you luck. you may want to contact Cetin and ask if it shipped yet. He is a very nice guy and will get back with you pretty quickly but keep in mind the time difference.

 

[PlanetScribbles]

Created a LR coil with 4 turns, guestimate at 2.4ohm, very nice vapour at 3.7v but burned taste at 5 and 6v.
I have trouble getting it working on my BB and passthrough, I think it is that there is a slight brass 'lip' at the bottom of the main body of the atty that protrudes to stop the post connecting with some units. I use a 510/901 and 901 back to 510 combo of two adaptors and it works fine then.

 

[atavanhalen]

I had trouble with my roughstack but a little prying ont the center posts of both the atty and the connector fixed it.

Created a LR coil with 4 turns, guestimate at 2.4ohm, very nice vapour at 3.7v but burned taste at 5 and 6v.
I have trouble getting it working on my BB and passthrough, I think it is that there is a slight brass 'lip' at the bottom of the main body of the atty that protrudes to stop the post connecting with some units. I use a 510/901 and 901 back to 510 combo of two adaptors and it works fine then.

 

[Bowlcut3x]

I had been doing the same thing. I was using the inners of some CE2 cartos and the outer metal tube of other cartos. It is such a pain to keep rebuilding these, but the alternative to keep buying new atomizers was getting too expensive. I really wanted to purchase the Buili but hearing about the wait times in receiving them I went with the Ato-Mizer instead. I ordered it on a Friday and received it on the following Monday. However, I am rather disappointed with it. It has 2 philip head screws and they shipped it with a flat head screw driver. Its also rather bulky and tends to leak through the threads of the unit. Another thing that is very disappointing about it is the atomizer connector. It is all machined of one piece of metal and when its screwed down it doesn't seat firmly, it wiggles around. If I tighten it firmly down as far it it'll go then it won't work at all, no firing.
I should have just sacrificed the extra $10 and wait time for a Buili A2.

For these reasons I have decided to make my own design of a rebuild-able atomizer. Instead of using screws to fasten down the NiChrome wire I'm going to use some type of connective pins, so all that needs to be done to connect a new coil is pull out the old one and push in the new one.

Any thoughts?

 

[Bowlcut3x]

Here is a new thread I started with more information and some photos.

 

[BigBopper]

...tends to leak through the threads of the unit....

My A2 did the same thing. I took an o-rings from my spare mouth piece and put that at the bottom of the threads, which works pretty well, but still not ideal as the threads are so short.

Al